Charging issues help and troubleshoiting

[at25sw]

Hi all, I have a 1982 gs1100gl. I bought it last year, after sitting for about 5 years. Bike ran for about 150 miles, then stopped starting. It turned out the 3 starter clutch bolts sheared off( low voltage probably) I have replaced those bolts and the roller springs and bearings. Bike now starts strong, so I go for a shakedown ride. 30 miles in, throttle starts choking off and eventually dies by the road( low voltage symptoms, not fuel). Output Battery voltage at this point is 11.9Vdc( low). I try a fresh battery , 14.2 V before install, 11.9 connected. Start the bike…11.9v …rev the bike 11.9 v. weird, so I start looking at grounds and
there is a burnt blue/white wire ( photo) by the fuse box and positive terminal post( which was loose, tightened it). I will put in a new connector.
additionally the rectifier and stator were changed around 2009.
the bike has been jump started twice.
Fuel, spark plugs, air filter and battery are all new.
Anybody know what’s going on? Do I need a new rectifier? Stator? Stop buying 43 year old machines?

Thank you for any and all help!
-John

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Welcome,
Yours is a typical story, written about and solved many times on these pages. I've written about fixing mine. It's the Charging System Sorted thread linked in my signature. If you can't see signatures, go to the account settings in your profile and turn them on. You also need to be viewing the forum as POSTS, and not as LATEST ACTIVITY. or go to the the thread as the link below and read. This is my story, but it's the typical story. It may not have all of the answers, but should have enough to give you an overview of the problem and how to fix it. I've asked all the dumb questions in those pages, so you don't have to. If I can fix this, you can too. Ask good questions along the way, and you'll get the guidance you need. I'm not the electrical guru, but there are some on here who really know this system. They have all contributed to the thread below.
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...stem-sorted=&highlight=Charging+System+sorted

 

[at25sw]

Heya Rich, I have just read your charging systems sorted post. Thanks for pointing me to it, it looks like I’ll be rechecking the R/R and stator voltages.
I have a near complete 82 gl parts bike, would it be worth stripping the stator and rectifier off and seeing if they work?
how do you add a signature to your account? I can’t find the option in the profile section, so where is it hiding?

 

[dgates1]

how do you add a signature to your account? I can’t find the option in the profile section, so where is it hiding?

User Profile -> Edit Settings -> Account Tab -> Conversation Detail Options

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

IMHO, no. For me, knowing what I know, even if they did work, for how long? Your parts bike is just as old and likely has the same old parts and original wiring. I were you I’d just go ahead and get a new stator and a genuine SH775 and wire it as described. Depends what your time is worth to you.

 

[at25sw]

User Profile -> Edit Settings -> Account Tab -> Conversation Detail Options

Signature Accomplished, thank you much!

 

[dgates1]

Definitely agree with Rich. Check that Stator for short to ground on each leg and should get around 70 VAC between the legs when running at 4k rpm. If that checks out, then put in an SH775 and wire according to the diagram with all new connections.

Real SH775's are all over eBay right now for around $40. From Seadoo PWCs most look pretty good. Search for "710001103" and filter for Used. Just ordered one myself for my 82 1100G.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Measuring VAC on each pair of stator legs is only part of the story. Have to also check each leg to ground. There should be no continuity or voltage reading. This is where mine failed. But it's my understanding that if both of these test pass, still may not mean that stator is "good". Your crispy wiring shows that you have heat buildup frmo in the stator lines. This is what fries 'em. The Stator is 40+ years old and if not fried to a crisp already, is not likely to last. Good new ones can be had from Rick's, Electrosport, and others.

 

[at25sw]

Further questions: is this r/r on eBay a genuine shingenden?
https://ebay.us/m/ZCEliv
Doesn’t the member Nessisms have some rectifiers from time to time?, as well as the o ring kits( I’ll take 8 please )I’m thinking I should buy those o ring kits for the both carb sets.
I also need a harness, right?
any other parts to just swap out the
For the $, I’m for replacing the stock r/r with a used sh775 . and repairing the bad wires, and then check the voltages.
I had the stator cover off months back, the stator looked undamaged, and I think that given the L/W wire by fuse box is burnt and is from the stator, I’m assuming( for now) the stator is goid, and just the rectifier got toasted.

 

[Grimly]

Further questions: is this r/r on eBay a genuine shingenden?
https://ebay.us/m/ZCEliv

That's genuine.
No point assuming the stator is good, get testing.

 

[rphillips]

Have you looked at the elect. parts on your parts bike? It'd be handy if has already been upgraded to the mentioned parts.

 

[Nessism]

Ha ha! I've wrecked my SH775 reselling business, by showing people how to find them for cheap on eBay! I've yet to find a bad SH775, other than broken connectors and backplates falling off (and corrosion) All good.

Be sure to wire the unit like this.
​
SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

 

[dgates1]

You should absolutely get the o-ring kits from Ed! It's worth it to not have to find them all yourself. Link in his signature. ^^^^^

I ordered a set last Friday afternoon from him and he got it in the mail in like 30 minutes. Made it from CA to TX and in my mailbox Monday!!!

Thanks again Ed! Definitely keep THAT side business going.

 

[Nessism]

You should absolutely get the o-ring kits from Ed! It's worth it to not have to find them all yourself. Link in his signature. ^^^^^

I ordered a set last Friday afternoon from him and he got it in the mail in like 30 minutes. Made it from CA to TX and in my mailbox Monday!!!

Thanks again Ed! Definitely keep THAT side business going.

That's good news, David! Last year was a little rough with USPS; more lost packages than I've ever experienced before. Hope your rebuild goes as planned!

Regarding installing an SH775, Triumph PN T2500676 is a great option. High quality, and cheap.

​

 

[at25sw]

After further inspection and some helpful suggestions from members here , plan forward:
1) properly splice and crimp the blue/white(L/W schematics) that are toasted or broken.
2) I’ve ordered a genuine sh775 from eBay and the same harness kit from rich82’s handy post about my bikes issue(s) ️
3) perform the battery quick test, then rectifier, then stator tests after splicing. Note results, the data will say if I need a stator.
4) install sh775 regardless per instructions on direct connecting the stator, only after verifying a good stator and circuit.
5) improve the ground/ ensure quality/clean connections.

I am sure I skipped or missed several things, I will be reading posts and the Clymer guide to familiarize myself with the wiring.
I
like the idea of an SPG, could anyone speak to how hard it is to do or point me to a post?

Thanks everyone for all the help, and I will update after some parts and testing.
-John

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I think I covered the SPG in my Sorted post. Easy. If anything it simplifies things a bit.

stator testing is done with 3 stator wires disconnected from RR. With bike running at 5000 RPM. Check VAC an each 3 pairs of stator wires and check each leg to ground. If this show voltage, it’s bad. If this show continuity, it’s bad.

So you can test the stator that is on the bike now. You’ll want to clip the wires a bit to make sure you have clean copper.

Probably won’t need to run the bike for long but running a fan at the front of the engine is a good idea.

 

[at25sw]

All,
here’s the stator- visually looks bad to me. Opinions?
Here’s the question:
should I pull the stator from my donor 82 to install with the new sh775 r/r or will that just continue my electrical uncertainty? No ussue buying a new one if necessary.
I’m waiting on parts to start repairing the broken and burnt wiring, I will do the voltage and ground tests after the bike wires stop smoking upon starting
the most burnt wires are in fact the blue/ white from the stator, both by fuse panel and under left front gas tank.
cheers,
John

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Wires can't smoke if they're not connected to power. Again, the stator test are done with the 3 stator wires disconnected from the RR (and the headlamp loop that you will be eliminating).

 

[Nessism]

Rewire the system, use the old stator, along with the SH775, and see what happens. If you don't get 14-14.5 VDC, then the stator is weak. Install the donor unit if it is and try again. If still no love, buy a new unit.

 

[tom203]

That stator is BBQ’ed…..might produce, but will fail completely.
here’s one of my stators from 2012 on its way out, struggled to produce 13 volts down a steep hill