• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

1 rotor question, 1 plug cap question

  • Thread starter Thread starter cp___32
  • Start date Start date
C

cp___32

Guest
Hey everyone....sooooo....IT'S ALIVE!!!

Is it possible to remove the caps without damaging them and swapping them onto the proper wires or should I just order new caps, cut the wires a little shorter (because they are quite long still) and put the new ones on? I have brand new OEM replacement coils and new NGK caps, but when they were installed by my brother, he accidentally switched two of the caps.

The rotor question pertains to the rear rotor. I'm familiar with doing brakes on cars, however since my experience with older cars is usually with older cars where it costs as much to turn the rotors as it costs to just get new ones. Since brakes are an exceptionally important safety device I have no problem spending the money to do it right should I have to...but being a student, I want to make every penny count.
My rear rotor is fairly solid and thick, but does have grooves worn in it. I haven't taken the caliper apart to see if the pads are junk or not, but I imagine I'll be replacing those. Is it a good idea to turn the rotor, get a decent one from the local salvage yard, or should I absolutely go with a new one no matter what?
The front rotor is in fairly good shape, (better than the rear) but not perfect by any means so I may need to look into replacing it as well.

Thanks for the help everyone...I should be taking it for it's maiden voyage very very soon.
 
Step #1

Buy one of these or borrow one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47257

Step #2

Measure your rotors.

Step #3

Compare to the Min thickness marked on the rotor (or check the manual for service limit).

Decide wether it is safe t ojust swap pads or go find a less worn rotor.

Pos

P.S. and in case you are wondering

JA
August 22nd, 2005, 01:06 AM
The Frankfort Arsenal,Dillon,RCBS,Lyman,Sportsman Guide,and Harbor Freight are all the same Chinese made calipers just a different name on them.
I have had the same calipers that are Midway brand for 5 years. They are still accurate to within 5/10,000 of a inch as I have checked them several times againist my Starret micrometers that will measure 1/10,000 of a inch.
dfaugh
August 22nd, 2005, 10:14 AM

I'm actually a big fan of Harbor Freight...Yes, most of their tools are not super-high-quality...However, for a hobbyist they are often more than adequate,as long as you don't abuse them. Years ago, when I worked on cars(professionally) and had thousands of dollars worth of tools, I had lots of Snap-on and Craftsman, high-end welding equipment, too. But I also had quite a few various tools that I had picked up from Harbor Freight, mostly things I didn't use often, so I didn't want to invest alot into. But eventually, I used and abused some of these HF tools and they actually held up well, I only remember wearing out or breaking a very small numberof things (and I was usually "beating" on them when I did. No problem, just get another, for cheap.

Anyway, I've had one of these sets of calipers for several years now, and they've always worked quite well, and maintain accuracy (I don't think I've ever had to re-zero)...
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Hey,
Thanks Pos...Helpful as usual ;)
I already have a vernier caliper so that was easy. I measured it and it appears to be thick enough for machining. 6.9mm and the service limit is 6mm.
I called the Suzuki service dept today and they told me they don't machine motorcycle rotors because if they do, they wear out too fast.
I suppose that would make sense for newer rotors for the sport bikes because they're pretty thin to start with, but considering I've got a single disc system, and the rotor is solid and much thicker than the typical ones these days, could he be mistaken? Anyone ever had one turned and if so how were the results?
 
The only ones I've had turned, were by a machine shop, seems nobody else wants to fool with them. Have had 4 sets done, with no problems. You tell them the minium thickness, they won't have a clue.
 
Take some sand paper, scuff them up, and then use them. The back brake doesn't carry much load in the stopping department anyway.
 
The most accurate Vernier Calipers do not have dials on them. I like Harbor Freight also. Their calipers will work for 99% of what anyone would do on a motorcycle. Micrometers for cranks and bearing surfaces. I want the Harbor Freight wheel changer with the motorcycle attachment, saving my pennies.

If the rear hub is not out of round and their are no high points (which could be filed down with a round file), I would just use it the way it is. The shoes will conform to the hub and rear brakes aren't used that much, unless you pull a sidecar or trailer.
 
Cool, Thanks for the info. The place I did co-op at had some machining equipment and one of the guys I worked with a lot is a certified CNC operator with a lot of contacts so I'm sure I'll find someone who can do it for me.
Yeah I figure the'd probably be ok, but I haven't gotten the bike certified yet, so I want to make sure it's gonna pass.
 
The plug caps are screwed on. There is a pin, that has threads like a wood screw. Pull & turn counter clockwise to remove, push & clockwise to install. The pin screws straight up in the center of the wire.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top