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$100 for a ____ing chain?! Or: Chain 101 please.

  • Thread starter Thread starter maparker
  • Start date Start date
The supposed advantage of a chain over a shaft is the fact that a chain and sprockets DO transfer rotational torque more efficiently than a shaft. ANY method of energy transfer has some loss of efficiency loss through friction at the very least. Slightly more efficiency is lost when transferring rotational torque through a 90 degree turn (differential) of which there is almost always at least 1 in a drivetrain. Factor in the maintenance, the smoothness, the reliability of a shaft, and I'll happily give away that few percent of torque transfer. If I'm riding so close to the edge that I need to increase my HP transfer by 4%.... I need to glance at my drivers' license one more time and remind myself how many decades have passed since my date of birth. (Stoopie ole man!)
 
As long as that chain is drippy wet with oil 4% it is. Dry chains probably cost them 4%. I like the cheap shaft drive. 5 bucks worth of gear lube lasts me 3 yearly oil changes. Perfect shifts everytime, even if I am a bit behind those chain guys.

Who said it was all a race anyway?
 
Bolder Biker said:
Planecrazy said:
That was good ... I'll just laugh and enjoy it!!! :lol: :wink:

Steve 8)
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Steve,

I have in-laws in south/central Illinois, and I recall that I have to drive miles to find a good bend in their neck of the woods. :lol:

BB
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Luckily for us in the Chicago area we're less than an hour or two from decent twisties in the Wisconsin area, as well as some occasional good stuff near the rivers and ravines in our area. When we go riding as a group, we usually make it an all day event and spend many fine hours in the Kettle Moraine and Dells area of Wisconsin ... good stuff there!!

Regards,
Steve 8)
 
duaneage said:
Perfect shifts everytime, even if I am a bit behind those chain guys.
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Behind the chain guys?? With the exception of Joe Nardy, who used to race, I tend to stay in front of the chain gang ... most of them can't keep up!! :lol: :wink:

Steve 8)

PS It is most definitely NOT a race! Only a fool rides beyond his or her comfort level!!! I have two young kids, a wife I'm devoted to, and a healthy respect for my bike. I have no wish to leave this Earth anytime soon and never push beyond my capabilities ... I know the bike can do a LOT more than I'll ever ask it to!!

Bottom line is I just prefer the smoothness, reliability, and lack of constant maintenance that a shaft affords me.
 
Wow, I come in Monday morning to check this thread and what a surprise not only do I have lots of good, helpful answers, but also a bunch of wise cracks. The best of both worlds!

I'll try and take everyones advice and put on the best chain/sprockets I can afford, and for the shafties out there I have thought that would be a nice option as well....Anybody every ridden the Yam FJR1300? I saw a guy wheely one like it was nothing 8O That's the kinda shaft driven bike I want :twisted:

Thanks all,
Parker
 
Slightly more efficiency is lost when transferring rotational torque through a 90 degree turn (differential) of which there is almost always at least 1 in a drivetrain.
Click to expand...

Not in a snowmobile. Direct link to the crankshaft. That's why they are so much fun!

...and I'd "slay" you in the twisties with my full dress "G!" Unless you're at the very top of your game, the "G" has no trouble rattling "chains!"

For references, check with the Chicagoland crowd ... they'll tell you how competent my "G" is when the going gets fun!!!
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You better make sure your dentures are glued on real tight if you shafties are gonna try and follow my taillight! And no stopping at the local fish fry, even if they offer senior citizen discounts!

:D
 
Jethro said:
...and I'd "slay" you in the twisties with my full dress "G!" Unless you're at the very top of your game, the "G" has no trouble rattling "chains!"

For references, check with the Chicagoland crowd ... they'll tell you how competent my "G" is when the going gets fun!!!
Click to expand...

You better make sure your dentures are glued on real tight if you shafties are gonna try and follow my taillight! And no stopping at the local fish fry, even if they offer senior citizen discounts!

:D
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Bring it on, Bud!! We Chicagoland GS'rs will even put you up while you visit ... we ARE a very friendly bunch, after all!! :lol: :wink:

Steve 8)
 
How about a serious post.

O-ring chains are E X P E N S I V E. You're looking at $200 for the set. Chain, sprockets, et-al.

They also last. A long, long, time. (I've seen several cases of 30k miles)

Non o-ring chains, do not last. 3-10,000 miles. However, a set is $70. Chain, and sprockets. For your bike.

O-ring chains are cheaper to run in the long run.

If I didn't know I was going to be swapping ratios.. I'd go with an o-ring chain. Keep it clean, and keep it lubed. And I'd expect to sell that chain with the bike ;-)
 
Depending on the chain length you don't have to spend 100$ or more. If you poke around E-bay there are "online retailers" that sell the DID O-ring chains for around 80$ or in the case of the too short chain that I bought 76$.

I bought both of my chains through these guys via E-bay... www.powersportrider.com

Be aware that there are different types of mater links as well.. there are clip type and rivet type... *most of the DID chains I've used/seen were rivet type* This will require a tool to get the chain on...

For that I went from shop to shop locally and sorted through e-bay... the tool is 100$ from just about every one... though I found it on kneedraggers.com for 78$... chain rivet tool link

hope this helps... oh and if you want a middle of the road non-o-ring chain or I think o-ring chain that isn't too bad try Tsubaki... Still more than RK and a few other brands but from dang near everyone I talk to and in the hayne's manuals they suggest Tsubaki...
 
It comes down to whether you are keeping the bike long term or not. If it is a learning bike then go cheap and save money for the next ride. I like mine alot and have kept it 3 years so far and 6000 miles aready.

A c-oworker has a 1300 cc yamaha like you describe. He road it from dallas texas to PA when he bought it. Massive amounts of acceleration although the Suzuki bandit is comparable.
 
Go the Ebay route. Some sellers have sets of quality stuff like Vortex sprockets and Regina chain at great prices.
 
Be careful with the o-ring type

Be careful with the o-ring type

Most of these guys ride four-cylinder GS'es and may not have experience with the GS450's. No offense guys, but the man is looking for advice to go along with the copious amounts of humor on this thread. :wink: I may be wrong but I seem to recall reading somewhere that there is not enough room on the GS450 motor to install an o-ring or x-ring chain, that it is too wide to clear the engine cases and will grind metal off!! Definitely not desirable. I too need a new chain and sprockets for my bike (GS450ST) as it has developed a tight spot and has to be run loose or ugly grinding sounds happen. I have ordered a standard D.I.D. 530-104 (104 links of 530 chain) for $21 and change and the stock 15/45 sprockets as I am happy with the gearing. I figure if it lasts for 10k miles I'll be happy and I'll bet it'll last longer than that because it'll be me cleaning and maintaining it rather than the previous owner. A UK site I found thinks that the standard front sprocket is supposed to be a 16T for the GS450E and GS450S models, but my factory manual states otherwise and I have also read that a 16T won't fit on the front, but that may be wrong. If your bike is an L model I think the standard gearing is 15/43. The OE chain still on my bike at 14k miles is an endless type with a rivet-style master link. I ordered a standard clip-style master link. I don't think these little bikes put out enough power to really warrant hassling the rivet link. 530 chain is used on sportbikes with triple the power so it should be strong enough. Oh, and the site I ordered from is www.parts411.com which has an office 4 miles from my house so I avoid the shipping costs. Otherwise it would have been DennisKirk or BikeBandit or similar. Ok, now that I've stuck in my $0.02 of stick-in-the-mud advice you guys can resume your chain vs. shaft discussion. I think the G models have the Guzzis and Beemers beat for suspension geometry, at least you can roll on or off the throttle in corners without upsetting the handling as much as those other dinosaurs...
 
I was able to get a 16T on a 450 I had years ago, I don't recall changing out the rear, i believe I added a link so the the chain adjuster would be correct. If you do change the gearing take note of where the chain adjustment marks end up with the new chain so that as it wears out you won't go too long or far out of adjustment.

Shafts rule.

Back to the shaft vs chain war :twisted:
 
Ian: Thanks for the advice....I was thinking the same thing in the back of my mind...that's why I put the line about the bike not being a "fire-breathing drag bike" or something like that in. If I can get 10k out of a $21 chain I will be MORE than happy, heck if I can get 3-5k i'll be tickled pink!

duaneage: Please feel free to resume the chain vs. shaft war!!! I'm enjoying that aspect of the thread just as much to be honest! Personally I've never ridden a shaft bike, closest I've ever come was a belt drive HD Dyna.... I remember thinking to myself "Hmm, when I twist the throttle to the stop shouldn't something more excting happen than me going deaf?" :-k
 
Ian is probably right about the chain width. Smaller twins like the Honda Hawk need to have the chain guards removed or modified for some "racing chains" because they rub, friend of mine tore his guard clear off of a cm400 because a shop used a wider, high performance type chain.

Chain and sprocket set should do ya. You really must replace the gears since they get fish hook profiles that don't work so good. Old sprockets destroy new chains.



Does the EPA fine you chain lovers for oiling the roadway? :-k
 
duaneage said:
Does the EPA fine you chain lovers for oiling the roadway? :-k
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You mean you have to OIL them!

Yeah and I'm sure a shafty has NEVER dribbled a little lube to mark its territory eh?
 
AND ... our frames, side covers, shocks, rims, etc. stay nice and clean too!!

It is a rare thing for a shaftie to leak fluids from the final drive, but then it is rare for a shaftie to EVER have problems with the driveline!

On a serious note, I've had a '80 550L since 1989, and although I always enjoyed it I looked forward to replacing it with a shaftie. When that happened I never looked back, and the 550L will be available for sale sometime soon. First I have to put on the new chain and sprockets and give it a good cleanup! Interested parties are welcome to contact me for more info.

Regards,
Steve 8)
 
Thread wakeup and question for Ian

Thread wakeup and question for Ian

IanFrancisco said:
I have ordered a standard D.I.D. 530-104 (104 links of 530 chain) for $21 and change and the stock 15/45 sprockets as I am happy with the gearing. I figure if it lasts for 10k miles I'll be happy and I'll bet it'll last longer than that because it'll be me cleaning and maintaining it rather than the previous owner.
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Hey Ian,

How did you make out with your chain and sprocket? I'm really anxious to know because on the way to work this morning my chain popped off when I downshift for a corner! I guess its now too stretched out to adjust anymore so I have to bite the bullet and get new sprockets and a chain. Jus wanted to know what you thought of your setup as I need to do this ASAP

Thanks Parker
 
Hey Ma, I hope you are getting that chain fixed soon. Are you still riding with it streched so much? Very dangerous to do so. Many years ago I broke the chain on my X6, did a fair amount of damage to the machine but luckily I was able to keep it upright as I stopped abruptly. Scarry experience that I wouldn't recommend. Ray
 
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