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$100 for a ____ing chain?! Or: Chain 101 please.

  • Thread starter Thread starter maparker
  • Start date Start date
So whats a good chain lube? I don't really have any shops around here and I'm brand new to riding. The only local place I KNOW I can get chain lube is Wals_mart....which I hate going to but will if I have to. They have Champion brand spray lube in the MC 1/8 isle.

I DO have lots of other spray lubes of various types, PTFE, graphite, oils, waxes and coatings. What type of thing am I looking for out in the garage until I can get some real lube? O-ring chain by the way.

/\/\ac
 
Ghostgs1 said:
Hey Ma, I hope you are getting that chain fixed soon. Are you still riding with it streched so much? Very dangerous to do so. Ray

Yeah, I figured that this was my warning to stop riding until I could get a new chain and sprockets. It happened only a few miles from home luckily so I got it back on and limped it home and there it'll stay 'til I get the new stuff on.


I also second Macmatic's question. For my bicycles I always used Triflo, but want to use what's best for the bike.

Thanks,
Mark
 
Re: Thread wakeup and question for Ian

Re: Thread wakeup and question for Ian

maparker said:
IanFrancisco said:
I have ordered a standard D.I.D. 530-104 (104 links of 530 chain) for $21 and change and the stock 15/45 sprockets as I am happy with the gearing. I figure if it lasts for 10k miles I'll be happy and I'll bet it'll last longer than that because it'll be me cleaning and maintaining it rather than the previous owner.

Hey Ian,

How did you make out with your chain and sprocket? I'm really anxious to know because on the way to work this morning my chain popped off when I downshift for a corner! I guess its now too stretched out to adjust anymore so I have to bite the bullet and get new sprockets and a chain. Jus wanted to know what you thought of your setup as I need to do this ASAP

Thanks Parker

I got all the parts. Turned out the chain was $27 instead of $21 but oh well. I haven't installed it yet. It hasn't got to the point where I can't tighten it up any more. I can still overtighten it and have to be careful to adjust it when it's at its tightest spot. You'll need a chain breaker if you have the OE endless chain still on there and a big socket or wrench to fit the nut holding the engine sprocket on. Not exactly sure what size, it might be in the OE toolkit if you have that. If you don't have those tools you can probably break the chain with a dremel or a grinder or a file if that's all you have and maybe get a big crescent wrench on the sprocket nut. I also would get a $10 hand impact wrench to get the Phillips heads off the front sprocket cover and replace them with Allens (hex heads). When I replaced the rear tire I had to put a 2X4 under the centerstand to get enough height to get the rear wheel out. Be safe! Block the front wheel to keep the bike from rolling forward off the centerstand. I also had to remove both shocks and loosen the right side chrome bracket holding up the exhausts and rear footpegs to get enough clearance to drop the swing arm low enough to get the axle out. Don't forget to undo the brake locating arm and actuating rod. Be sure to notice how the spacers and rear brake all go together so you can get them back together the same way!! After that extra hassle getting the axle out it was fairly easy to get the chain off the rear sprocket and get the wheel out. The rear sprocket and cush drive will just fall off the wheel once it's out. Be sure to use locktite or some kind of lock washers on the nuts holding the rear sprocket onto the cush drive. You don't want those coming loose while riding!!! Getting it all back together was a wrestling match trying to hold up the weight of the rear wheel and swingarm with one hand and slipping the axle in with the other. That would go much easier if you get some help. If you get an old school clip-style master link instead of the rivet-link things willl be much easier next time. Some guys who do lots of commuting miles will only replace their sprockets every other chain and with a clip-style master link you can remove and replace the chain without even dropping the rear wheel out.

Replacing the rear tire was about a 4-hour job but I saved money on labor and had the satisfaction of knowing it was done carefully. So far I have not had to pay a dime for labor on my bike. Good thing cause I've managed to spend over $600 on parts and accessories!

If you have never done anything like this plan on taking a full day or even two days to get it done and realize ahead of time that one stripped Phillips head can seriously impede your progress. Be patient and work slowly and carefully. Stop and clean your hands and grab a cig or a beer and stand back and take a few deep breaths from time to time. Give your bike some love and you'll be the proud owner with dirt on his hands when it's all back together and running better than ever.
 
Macmatic said:
So whats a good chain lube? I don't really have any shops around here and I'm brand new to riding. The only local place I KNOW I can get chain lube is Wals_mart....which I hate going to but will if I have to. They have Champion brand spray lube in the MC 1/8 isle.

I DO have lots of other spray lubes of various types, PTFE, graphite, oils, waxes and coatings. What type of thing am I looking for out in the garage until I can get some real lube? O-ring chain by the way.

/\/\ac

O-ring chains aren't supposed to need lube (yah right). I've read about some guys just putting a little 30wt. engine oil on a rag and wiping their o-ring chains down with that. I use a product called Chain Wax. It has lube and parrafin. Smells funky but you spray it on and wait 15 minutes for it to dry. Throws less grunge around than plain oil/lube. I just have the regular OE chain on the bike.
 
You can get hammer-type impacts at Harbor Freight Tools for around $6, and if you go with a clip master link, make sure you put the clip on so that it is being held on with the rotation of the chain. I had a clip come off my chain last summer because I installed it backwards! :oops: Now, mind you, this was on an 1100, but I think the precaution is warranted. Also, the front sprocket nut size is 32mm on the 1100, I'm sure yours is smaller, and you may want to see if you can find someone with an air impact to tighten it for you. Mine had the tendency to loosen up (after riding) when I would use the hammer impact to tighten it.

Brad tt
 
Re: Thread wakeup and question for Ian

Re: Thread wakeup and question for Ian

IanFrancisco said:
If you have never done anything like this plan on taking a full day or even two days to get it done

...yet another reason for a shaftie! Wheel and drive assembly come off in a matter of minutes with no complaint, AND alignment when you get it back together is super easy with no concern that something will stretch as you ride.

Loved my 550L, but I sure don't miss all the chain maintainance! One more time for the next owner and I'm done! :lol: :wink:

Steve 8)
 
Re: Thread wakeup and question for Ian

Re: Thread wakeup and question for Ian

Planecrazy said:
IanFrancisco said:
If you have never done anything like this plan on taking a full day or even two days to get it done

...yet another reason for a shaftie! Wheel and drive assembly come off in a matter of minutes with no complaint, AND alignment when you get it back together is super easy with no concern that something will stretch as you ride.

Loved my 550L, but I sure don't miss all the chain maintainance! One more time for the next owner and I'm done! :lol: :wink:

Steve 8)

QUIET YOU!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Brad tt
 
There is supposed to be a splined washer that french locks to the nut to insure the countershaft nut does not loosen or come off.

Earl

bradleymaynar said:
You can get hammer-type impacts at Harbor Freight Tools for around $6, and if you go with a clip master link, make sure you put the clip on so that it is being held on with the rotation of the chain. I had a clip come off my chain last summer because I installed it backwards! :oops: Now, mind you, this was on an 1100, but I think the precaution is warranted. Also, the front sprocket nut size is 32mm on the 1100, I'm sure yours is smaller, and you may want to see if you can find someone with an air impact to tighten it for you. Mine had the tendency to loosen up (after riding) when I would use the hammer impact to tighten it.

Brad tt
 
Re: Thread wakeup and question for Ian

Re: Thread wakeup and question for Ian

bradleymaynar said:
Planecrazy said:
IanFrancisco said:
If you have never done anything like this plan on taking a full day or even two days to get it done

...yet another reason for a shaftie! Wheel and drive assembly come off in a matter of minutes with no complaint, AND alignment when you get it back together is super easy with no concern that something will stretch as you ride.

Loved my 550L, but I sure don't miss all the chain maintainance! One more time for the next owner and I'm done! :lol: :wink:

Steve 8)

QUIET YOU!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Brad tt

I can't help it if you failed to "choose wisely," Brad! I still like the Walmart hottie on your gas tank, though! :lol: :lol: :wink:

Steve 8)
 
I get 20-25k miles out of a chain and sprocket set on my 1150 and I dont use chain lube. "O" ring chain sprayed with Boeshield T-9 corrosion block and rubber lubricant lightly aprox every 1000 miles. No build up, doesnt attract dirt and the chain looks like new all the time. I adjust my chain slightly about once every 5 to 8 K miles. I dont see the big deal about shaft drive. I probably spend less than 30 minutes on my chain driveline in 25K miles.

Earl
 
earlfor said:
I get 20-25k miles out of a chain and sprocket set on my 1150 and I dont use chain lube. "O" ring chain sprayed with Boeshield T-9 corrosion block and rubber lubricant lightly aprox every 1000 miles. No build up, doesnt attract dirt and the chain looks like new all the time. I adjust my chain slightly about one every 5 to 8 K miles. I dont see the big deal about shaft drive. I probably spend less than 30 minutes on my chain driveline in 25K miles.

Earl

Obviously I'm just giving them a good spirited "hard time," Earl, but I would go so far as to say you are the exception, not the rule when it comes to almost never touching your chain (to your credit ... you obviously get it right when you DO work on it)! :lol: :wink:

Steve 8)
 
I think after so many years, I have acclimated to chains, their likes and dislikes. LOL all those gear and shaft thinghys scare me. LOL

Earl


Planecrazy said:
Obviously I'm just giving them a good spirited "hard time," Earl, but I would go so far as to say you are the exception, not the rule when it comes to almost never touching your chain (to your credit ... you obviously get it right when you DO work on it)! :lol: :wink:

Steve 8)
 
earlfor said:
There is supposed to be a splined washer that french locks to the nut to insure the countershaft nut does not loosen or come off.

Earl

It's never come off, (Thank God!) because of that washer, but there were a couple instances where the nut could be moved by hand. 8O

Brad tt

BTW, Steve, last time I washed the bike, he lost his sunny disposition. I need to get another one. :lol:
 
bradleymaynar said:
BTW, Steve, last time I washed the bike, he lost his sunny disposition. I need to get another one. :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol: Here ... have this one O:)

Steve 8)
 
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