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1100E Valve Adjustment Tool

  • Thread starter Thread starter retcol
  • Start date Start date
R

retcol

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I just bought myself an 83 GS1100E which I understand does not use the shim and bucket system for adjusting valves, but rather an easy rachet type system. I'm also told that I will need a special 9mm tool fo this process. I've looked through several vendors, but can't find a tool just for adjusting E model valves. What is this tool called, who sells them, and does anybody have an extra one they can sell me?
 
It's a 9mm wrench and a square drive screw clamped tight in some vice grips.
 
Tom R said:
It's a 9mm wrench and a square drive screw clamped tight in some vice grips.
Click to expand...

That's probably the way I'll go.
Surely it can't be that hard to hold the screw in place while you tighten down the 9mm nut.
 
If you read BassCliff's link you will find the writer uses a Robertson(square head)screw head to do the ajustments.For the record it's a #2 Robertson screw you need.Covered the screw section with tubing as I didn't have a dowel handy.That and a 9mm wrench and you are good to good.
 
Thanks fellows, that cleared up my concerns completely. Sure seems alot easier than the shim and bucket method I've been doing all along. I can't wait to try it out on my new E model.
 
sedelen said:
That's probably the way I'll go.
Surely it can't be that hard to hold the screw in place while you tighten down the 9mm nut.
Click to expand...

I've done it both ways -- with the Robertson / wrench and with the MotionPro tool set. I'll tell ya -- the latter is definitely how the other half lives. You don't only want the valve lash within spec, you want it identical for the two valves on the same rocker / follower / whatever it's called. If you're halfway as fussy as I am, you'll find that the MotionPro tools require about 12% as much patience as the screw / wrench approach.

Precisely 12%. Scientific measurement.
 
I agree but I did not do enough adjustments without the toll to corroboerate that percentage
 
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Well that tool from china looks just fine and 4mm also.And the price.Can't beat it. I have several oem tools Suzuki, Kent Moore,Motion Pro etc. Also I have some flat stamped 3 and 4 mm square drive wrenchs that was auto shipped from Yamaha for some applications. (Yamaha ATV's) I would highly recommend dropping the extra bucks if your planning on doing your own maintaince. They fit right and can hold them easier at least 12% if not higher less grief. Not to discourage the screw ,socket, nut driver method.I am anal with sticking rags into any place I feel might be a place of entry for small objects. But looks like a lot of small parts and the potential of something possibly dropping off and into the engine if not being careful. And we know how that feels. I could see epoxy on those pieces though I like the length. I also have attached two .004 feeler gauges together for the split rocker motors to be used at the same time for accuracy.Also I use 6 point wrenchs instead of 12 keeps from slipping and rounding things off. Buy the way I purchaced some new valve adjuster nuts the other day and they supercieded to 8mm instead of the 9mm. So I went on and got all 16 of the 8mm sizes to keep the (lighter) weight all the same between them.Probally wouldn't matter but just felt right lol. ;)
 
Agreed that the special purpose tools ( e.g., Motion Pro) make this job a lot easier, but when did they get so darned expensive?! Just looked on Amazon and see they're $32 for a kit. I had to buy a set a couple years ago and then I think they were like $15.

Of course, this means I now have two sets, the others obviously in some box somewhere...
 
This is the tool that came with my bike. I believe it was purchased from Suzuki. It sure works nice.

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Is too loose better then too tight ? I got a couple of mine a little wide so it sounds like a diesel motor. Rattle seems to fade as it warms up.
 
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