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1100G how easy should rear wheel spin

  • Thread starter Thread starter midwestgs
  • Start date Start date
M

midwestgs

Guest
Hey Guys!
New 1100G owner and I can't help but notice how difficult the rear wheel spins.
On the center stand the rear wheel spins by hand, but not real easy. I expect it to have more resistance than a chain, but it seems a little stiff to me.
Oil level fine, Clymer & owners manual has nothing for specs, but a good spin with my hand- stops in a half turn. Does that sound about right?

As I am a new GZ owner this Summer I might be 'frettin for fun', but on the other hand.. what do you "Shafties" say?
 
I wouldn't say that the wheel spins freely on my 650G either, especially when cold. 1/2 turn is right in the ballpark
 
midwestgs said:
Hey Guys!
New 1100G owner and I can't help but notice how difficult the rear wheel spins.
On the center stand the rear wheel spins by hand, but not real easy. I expect it to have more resistance than a chain, but it seems a little stiff to me.
Oil level fine, Clymer & owners manual has nothing for specs, but a good spin with my hand- stops in a half turn. Does that sound about right?

As I am a new GZ owner this Summer I might be 'frettin for fun', but on the other hand.. what do you "Shafties" say?
Click to expand...

Did you slip the brake off? If not rear brake could be dragging.
 
mrbill5491 said:
Did you slip the brake off? If not rear brake could be dragging.
Click to expand...

I'm going to have to check this on the 650. It's a good suggestion...I don't specifically recall it being any different with/without the brake in my case.
 
Take it from this "shaftie" (check the bikes in my sig :-\\\), 1/2 turn is about right.
righton.gif.pagespeed.ce.-r7mnTcTEv.gif


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Try prying back the brake pads and see what difference that makes. If it makes a big difference (spins easier, further), then the brakes were dragging.

I would say that would have to give it a big push to get it to coast the 1/2 turn others are saying.

THe gearing beteen the end of the shaft and the "ring" gear are something of a spiral cut (as opposed to straight cut like rack and pinion) so that, I think, adds to it not spinning easy (and is also why it doesn't jack up and down, which is why I choose Suzuki over other shaft drives in 1982)

Again, welcome.

You do know, don't you, that the emblem in your avatar is for the other kind of GS1100, the E, the chain drive, 4valve per cylinder model.

.
 
Last edited:
Was sufficiently certain the brake was not hanging after some fiddling, I should have mentioned that.
Having a consesus from the shaftie group will help ease my mind. Especially since it doesn't seem to coast very far.. again might be in my head.

Yes, apologies for the incorrect avatar.. I wasn't sure how to even add the dang' thang so I put one on quick. Thanks for keepin it real
 
As long as you are concerned about the things related to the shaft drive and rear wheel on this new-to-you bike (and first GS shaft, right?), it might be good for you to learn about the hub that is in the rear wheel. (IN rear wheel, not in the gear drive). Especailly an 82. Plenty of discussions about it on GSR.
If you look in zuki microfische it is called "joint" or something like that. Some might call it "spline".

Basically: If you have any reason to remove the rear wheel, you should inspect that rear hub. And unless you are real familiar with the problem wear pattern, it is best to remove the hub from wheel for the inspectio0n. Some folk would say that on a new to you bike, unless PO gave an info on the rear hub, that inspecting this hub is reason enough to remove the rear wheel.

No need to apologize about the avatar, doesn't bother me, just thought you should know if you didn't already.

.
 
Yep, sounds about right to me, too.

Once you've weather stripped your airbox and checked your splines, you will be welcomed to the Most High Order of the Mighty Shafted Ones.
 
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