1150 vibrations, holy crap.

[qslim]

Alright, so I can't feel my hands. Also the front brake lever fell off because the nut on the bottom of the pivot bolt shook itself away. Any other 1150 owners out there feel like they are re-entering the atmosphere around 60mph and up? I just got this thing, came off an 850G, so I don't know.

 

[marvinsc]

Doesn't Sound Normal to Me. Two things that Will Cause Vibration that Most Folks Overlook are #1 Carbs out of Synch and #2 Worn Front Tire, they don't have to Look bald to be Shot.

 

[madjack57754]

Shouldn't vibrate like your description. Something must be out of wack. Wing the throttle up in neutral and see if you can feel heavy vibration at higher throttle in the engine. It's possible that wheel balance could also cause a heavy vibration

 

[qslim]

Definitely not wheel related. About 4 or 5k you can hear the front light bucket and console box start to buzz when its sitting in neutral.

 

[earlfor]

Been there, had that. My 1150 would completely numb both hands, and my wrists and arms up to the elbow in about 5 minutes. The grips vibrated so bad it made my palms itch through gloves. I couldnt see anything in the mirrors and the headlight shell vibrated so loudly it sounded like I had a rattlesnake in my lap. Tires do not cause that high frequency, buzzing vibration. I did a PRECISE carb synch. Problems solved with near zero vibration. I found the 1150 is ACUTELY sensitive to carb balance. You must get all four carbs synched within a 1/2 cm range to get rid of the vibration. For example, if the vacuum level at idle is 10 cm on #3, then you want 1,2 and 4 to be within the range of 9.75 cm to 10.25 cm.
If the carbs are out by more than 1cm, your life will be utterly miserable.

When you get the synch perfect at idle rpm, run it up to 4500 and check the synch levels. If anything has changed and they are not all still the same reading, resynch it so that all vacuums are the same at 4500 rpm.

Be sure you have a good strong fan blowing on the engine when doing the run ups.

E.

Definitely not wheel related. About 4 or 5k you can hear the front light bucket and console box start to buzz when its sitting in neutral.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Even on the 850 a good carb sync does wonders

 

[rphillips]

I've found the 1150's to vibrate much worse than any other GS's, tho many will disagree. I've tried everything that's been recomenned thru this web site, & it "may" be slightly better than when I started. Onething I beleive everyone would agree on, A GS 1150 will never be as smooth as a GS 850.

 

[Guest]

Slim
Sounds like yours is a bunch worse than the one I've got. Mine vibrates, not enough to numb my hands (don't get rid of the stock bar end weights). The whole bike tends too buzz around 4000. I 'm used to it but it takes it's toll on the chassis. The back fender/signal light brace has broke a number of times. I reinforced it then the license lamp fell off, got that fixed up, then the rear was so stiff from my efforts that the tail lamps wouldn't last more than a week. LED replacements solved that. I pull the fairing every couple of years and fix the broken and cracked bracketry (?) I have the lower fairing rubber mounted because the stock bolts kept breaking.The lever bushings tend to wear out and this allows them to vibrate like crazy at 4000 or so, new levers are still available from suzuki.
I sync the carbs every spring but that has never made much of a difference. Never tried reving it to 4500 with the manometer hooked up, wouldn't want to suck the mercury into the engine.
Mine also does not like 60 mph. the bike seems to be the happiest at around 85.

 

[DimitriT]

Check your compression. When's the last time you've adjusted the valve clearances? I would do that first and then do a carb sync. Also check the motor mounts. I think they all have rough spots at some RPM range but not like what you're describing and definitely not when its in nuetral.