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1166 dyno info

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I built a kat for a local dude a while back and he has had the bike dyno'd.

I thought I would post the info for interest.

1982 gs1100 katana
web WGS348(168) cams
36mm mikuni flatslides
wiseco 1166 piston kit (10.25 to 1)
pod filters
v&h megaphone header

dyno'd @ 131hp @ sea level. Keep in mind that not all dynos are alike. This one was a atmospheric corrected dyno. If you are looking for gains when tuning its a good idea to go back to the same machine or you won't get reliable information on the upgrades.

A time slip is better than a dyno slip. Measures the whole package...bike and rider.

There is some interesting info on this page including rear world true hp numbers for many bikes. http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/true1.html
 
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Good numbers. When I had basically the same setup, but stock head, stock cams, I got 128HP. It suprised me when I finally put cams in that motor what small gains I got at the track. I thought it would go a good bit faster, but it didn't. I still have that 1166 kit sitting on the shelf having gone to a 1260 a couple years ago. Seemed to be the best bang for the buck.
 
Rob,

Not bad . I assume that dynoing the bike means a chassis dyno. BIG difference between crank and rear wheel numbers. 131 at the wheel is really close to the 150 mark at the crank. Did this engine have any head work ? Head work really amplify's the mods you do. These 1166 engines are great for the money. Easy to get 160 + with a good package. Rosco, making a cam change and getting very little might mean you could use more head. You probably are at the limits of what the head can flow right now. Very good info. Rob keep us posted.

Terry
 
Rob,
I don't have much to add here, but the fact that I started this thread a while about low cost head work. Thanks Terry did a very nice job on my head. A few folks including Ray and Terry weighed in on the subject relative to the 1100 16V motors.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137631

Also from what I remember Rapid Ray saying he was working on a bike that he built just recently, and with those Web 0.348's 1166 and RS 36mm carbs (also assuming proper head work) that bike was dropping well into the 9's. He was surprised by the additional hp that combo was putting out for just a baby 1166 kit (For Ray it is 1400 or nothing:eek:).

I also spoke with the owner of the bike. He reckoned the 348 cams were very street able , although he thought the RS's were more of a street strip (on/off) type of carb.

For me, I stayed at the 0.340, and have not even replaced my 1150 carbs with Slingshot CV Flatslides. I'm looking for more streetability but I might mention that I seemed to have perhaps broadended my powerband (according to my dynoButt meter) using my new 4:2:1 Yoshi. (no 4:1 flat spot)

Jim
 
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Good numbers. When I had basically the same setup, but stock head, stock cams, I got 128HP. It suprised me when I finally put cams in that motor what small gains I got at the track. I thought it would go a good bit faster, but it didn't. I still have that 1166 kit sitting on the shelf having gone to a 1260 a couple years ago. Seemed to be the best bang for the buck.

can i assume this is a high compression kit rather than a street flat top kit?
apples to apples guys.
i also assume kat's customers bike is a flat top kit..
chime in folks...
stock head and cams w/ just a flat top 1166 kit i would question making 128 @ the rear wheel.
 
Rob,

Not bad . I assume that dynoing the bike means a chassis dyno. BIG difference between crank and rear wheel numbers. 131 at the wheel is really close to the 150 mark at the crank. Did this engine have any head work ? Head work really amplify's the mods you do. These 1166 engines are great for the money. Easy to get 160 + with a good package.
Terry

No head work, just what I have listed.
 
I built a kat for a local dude a while back and he has had the bike dyno'd.

I thought I would post the info for interest.

1982 gs1100 katana
web WGS348(168) cams
36mm mikuni flatslides
wiseco 1166 piston kit
pod filters
v&h megaphone header

dyno'd @ 131hp @ sea level. Keep in mind that not all dynos are alike. This one was a atmospheric corrected dyno. If you are looking for gains when tuning its a good idea to go back to the same machine or you won't get reliable information on the upgrades.

A time slip is better than a dyno slip. Measures the whole package...bike and rider.

There is some interesting info on this page including rear world true hp numbers for many bikes. http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/true1.html

if this combo has a stock valve head/street porting or there abouts...
these numbers are right in range as far as im concerned.
 
Rob,
I don't have much to add here, but the fact that I started this thread a while about low cost head work. Thanks Terry did a very nice job on my head. A few folks including Ray and Terry weighed in on the subject relative to the 1100 16V motors.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137631

Also from what I remember Rapid Ray saying he was working on a bike that he built just recently, and with those Web 0.348's 1166 and RS 36mm carbs (also assuming proper head work) that bike was dropping well into the 9's. He was surprised by the additional hp that combo was putting out for just a baby 1166 kit (For Ray it is 1400 or nothing:eek:).

I also spoke with the owner of the bike. He reckoned the 348 cams were very street able , although he thought the RS's were more of a street strip (on/off) type of carb.

For me, I stayed at the 0.340, and have not even replaced my 1150 carbs with Slingshot CV Flatslides. I'm looking for more streetability but I might mention that I seemed to have perhaps broadended my powerband (according to my dynoButt meter) using my new 4:2:1 Yoshi. (no 4:1 flat spot)

Jim

THe flatslieds are very streetable?? I have used them on numerous bikes and have not found them to be on/off carbs
 
10.25 to 1 piston kit, question as you like. Dyno numbers are not absolute and I posted the info for general information. On one dyno on one day the bike pulled that number.

kat,
that quote was not for you.
re-read please.:p
 
Caught that and changed the post. But, I did leave out the piston comp which is important.
 
i would just assume rosco's being a dragbike and with the 128 HP is more than a flat top kit which would explain the near 40 HP gain over a stock 1100.
 
i would just assume rosco's being a dragbike and with the 128 HP is more than a flat top kit which would explain the near 40 HP gain over a stock 1100.

HE does say though he had the same setup but stock cams. he @ 128 and this engine @ 131 with cams. IF you question his @ 128 you must be questioning the 131 as well?
 
HE does say though he had the same setup but stock cams. he @ 128 and this engine @ 131 with cams. IF you question his @ 128 you must be questioning the 131 as well?

3 hp for cams??
ummm,
no.
i figare the cams make the differance by MORE THAN 3 HORSEPOWER.
stock cams are a dog..wont rev and so on.
131 i see.
128 on just a piston kit and the dreaded STOCK CAMS.
i dont see.
dyno's and conditions vary....
and he said he had the same set up..thats before you posted your compression.
lets see what he says..
it is what it is.
;)
 
THe flatslieds are very streetable?? I have used them on numerous bikes and have not found them to be on/off carbs

Rob,
Well I kinda stepped into it making that comment :(. If that was the only thing I had to say I would not have posted anything:cool:. Basically I was posting a summary of my interview of the owner of the bike with similar config as your guys (1166 10.25:1, 348's ;RS 36 doing well sub 10's at 140 IIRC). I know a lot of guys run them (like you); I just thought it was an interesting comment coming from a guy running them on the strip.

Maybe the word "streetable" is a poor choice, and "forgiving" is a better word. I'm not sure as I have not ridden them. I know when I have ridden my Gixxer 1100 with CV Flatslides, the slides jump in a hurry, but I never got the feeling the bike was unmanageable, however when you roll on the throttle it pulls very strong.

It is probably more a matter of what you want out of your bike, instant on v.s. CV lag; the lag being more smooth and forgiving.

Can you provide a comparative assessment?

Jim
 
I will be rebuilding a

1260 kit 10.25:1
1mm over s/s valves
head port, flowed and valve job by Terry
Web 370-3(190) cams
matched intakes
V&H header
39mm Keihin flatslides
straight cut gears

I am hoping for a 150 pull.

I had some serious problems with this engine with 1166 kit. pulled 100 hp. Head, cams, carbs not working together. It was the exact same setup as the 131 motor but with the headwork. The engine would fall flat on its face @ 6k drowning in fuel with 130 mains. Wouldn't smooth out until I put in 127.5's but didn't get back to the dyno.
I put a set of 33 smoothies on her and she took off like a scalded dog so I returned the 36's for a new set. Same problem.

Which brings me to my point.....

Everything has to work together. You can buy all the best components and throw them together but doesn't mean the engine will work the best.
 
Rob,

It is probably more a matter of what you want out of your bike, instant on v.s. CV lag; the lag being more smooth and forgiving.

Can you provide a comparative assessment?

Jim

"Rotty" on here can. He replaced his stock carbs with some 34 flatslides ( '83 750es) and he told me the performance increase was dramatic. Weather that is true or just the way the power comes on is a good question since there are no numbers to compare. There is no doubt the power comes on much stronger now which is what you pay your bucks for.

If by streetable you mean less powerful than no these are not that streetable. ON/OFF or "not streetable" to me is where there is a dramatic throttle response with minimal input. I don't find the RS's like that. They are very smooth and controllable with the throttle. Until you wac it!!
 
With Terry's head I'm running 147.5's mikuni main jets and get about 32 mpg.

I think there is not much trick to 1166 kits, or even adding 340 or 348's (basically drop in) Webs cams. Bill can basically set the carbs on a set of 1150 36mm CV's from memory and it will work almost no fuss.

Head work adds another dimension, and needs be done by someone qualified. But Terry will tell you (as he did me) you don't want the head to be the chock point.

Rob, your 1260 Kat sounds like a monster and yea now the combinations are going to make a big diff at the power level you are trying to acheive. U wanna take on some 1K Gixxers?
 
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With Terry's head I'm running 147.5's mikuni main jets and get about 32 mpg.

I think there is not much trick to 1166 kits, or even adding 340 or 348's (basically drop in) Webs cams. Bill can basically set the carbs on a set of 1150 36mm CV's from memory and it will work almost no fuse.

I have had a few guys tell me their engines ran like dogs with the Web 348's. They replaced the cams and made huge gains. This with 1166 kits & carbs
 
Rob,
Also from what I remember Rapid Ray saying he was working on a bike that he built just recently, and with those Web 0.348's 1166 and RS 36mm carbs (also assuming proper head work) that bike was dropping well into the 9's. He was surprised by the additional hp that combo was putting out for just a baby 1166 kit (For Ray it is 1400 or nothing:eek:).

I also spoke with the owner of the bike. He reckoned the 348 cams were very street able , although he thought the RS's were more of a street strip (on/off) type of carb.


Jim
The bike ran 9.45 @ 138 mph in 100 degree weather at Fontana. This is a JUNK head with STOCK valves & stock valve job, .348 cams @ 110/108 lobe centers, 36 RSs, 10.25 comp. & a 5.5 inch slick. I was pretty surprised that using all USED parts & just putting it together correctly that it would run that quick! Ray.
 
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