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1166 meltdown

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  • Start date Start date
chef1366 said:
Blew another head gasket the other day. Decided to fix it right this time after a half-a$$ed job glueing on a head gasket and putting rings on bad pistons.
Here's the aftermath
piston008.jpg


piston009.jpg


piston011.jpg


piston012.jpg
Click to expand...

Your mechanical info looks good, but have you called an exterminator about those piston mice??

That's one of worse cases of non catastrophic detonation I've ever seen!
 
Disneyland ! So did you get the pistons from Mickey.
Looks good!
 
TheCafeKid said:
I dont know if he's paranoid, but it kinda sucks tryin to fish that chain back up when it DOES happen.

And, i duno bout Bill, but ive never had to split the chain to remove the entire top end. Dont think you would have to at all, unless of course you had to replace the chain, then ive heard various tales on how it SHOULD be done. Some say you can get away with cracking the chain, running the new one and riveting it, other say the cases MUST be split as the chain should be continuous and NEVER pinned.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't take the chance splitting the chain. They come continuous and I'd leave them that way and split the cases and do it right. IMHO, it just isn't worth the risk.
 
I had a timing chain come "un-glued" ONCE, and it bent all of my custom made valves! So when I replaced it, I tack welded the link with a wire feed welder.

Just my .02

Eric
 
67fire said:
I had a timing chain come "un-glued" ONCE, and it bent all of my custom made valves! So when I replaced it, I tack welded the link with a wire feed welder.

Just my .02

Eric
Click to expand...
No need to do that if you install them without breaking. Or did you not get a continous chain?
 
67fire said:
It had a master link in it.

Eric
Click to expand...

You can do it safely if you use a proper riveting tool. Some try to peen the rivet heads over with a hammer. Not a good choice of methods and courting link failure. The joining link doesn't have a sliding lock as drive chains do, but are designed to be riveted.

The continuous chains are all made by a designated riveting process.
I've got 12,000 kms on my Tsubaki light weight chain so far.
The endless chains are safer to use, but do you want to split the cases?

Bill, those ball bearings made some rather sharp looking pit marks.:rolleyes:
 
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rapidray said:
Not if you own a telescoping magnet. I NEVER tie the cam chain up. I have the tools to do the job. Ray.
Click to expand...
I have a telescoping magnet too Ray. They cost a buck or two at the autoparts store. Its still a pain in the ass, and I dont fancy the idea of sticking a magnet down inside a bunch of steel parts. Same theory as not using a magnet to pull valve shims. Yeah, its likely not going to magnatize anything, but why take the chance. Takes 5 seconds to hook the cam chain over a pice of pre-bent coat hanger, or with some wire.... oh dear.
 
I helped a friend do a valve job on his 1150. We just let the chain fall, & fished it out later. It was not a big deal. Did we get lucky?

I'm getting ready to do a 1085 job on my GS1000. This is why I'm asking.

On the subject of splitting cam chains. I have the motion pro riveting tool. Used it on several drive chains. It has smaller anvils for cam chains. I never had the need to use it though.

Ray, make sure you don't get your tool caught in a tight spot! Uhh, on second thought ...
 
If you have the riveting tool, then you're probably not going to have any issues.

The only time I ever replace a cam chain is when rebuilding a motor, and if I'm doing that the cases are going to be split anyway - so it's a no brainer to order the continuous chain.
 
"You call do it safely if you use a proper riveting tool. Some try to peen the rivet heads over with a hammer. Not a good choice of methods and courting link failure. The joining link doesn't have a sliding lock as drive chains do, but are designed to be riveted."

You are correct, it has been a very long time ago (these engines are practically, bullet-proof) and Alzheimer's has been kicking in. :o
I mean "some-timer's disease". Not old enough for Alzheimer's. ;)

I peened it AND welded it.

Eric
 
I didn't split the chain. Top end is on. Have to adjust valves, install valve cover, carbs....
Didn't get started till after 12. The machine shop was dragging their feet.
 
Got it running.
Need to check the timing, degree in the cams, check jetting and sync carbs.
All in a days work.
 
I'm haveing a hard time working up the steam to rebuild my carbs and you whip a rebuild of your upper end in nothing flat. You know how to make a guy feel like a whimp. Hope it works out fine.

cg
 
On the cam chain I use the speaker wire to pull the chain through the cylinder and head.
I drop the chain in the tunnel when I drop my cylinder and lock it so the pistons don't move. I use a magnet to fish it out.
 
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