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1978 gs1000 regulator/rectifier Swap

  • Thread starter Thread starter Wigginton49
  • Start date Start date
Hi,

As I understand these things, the Yamahas have a different type of charging system that is not compatible with the Suzuki electrics. See the list of known compatible r/r units on my little website. Then do some more shopping on eBay if you like. The SH775 is a popular unit for our bikes. The ultimate would be the Compufire unit for about $175.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Wigginton49 said:
Basscliff took a look at your list. (your website is so helpful by the way) Looked on ebay and found

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380629834344?redirect=mobile

Will this work?
Click to expand...
For same money (70 bucks), if you can get a new SH-775, this is the way to go- the best approach to saving your expensive stator!
Besides, that's an overpriced used unit- you can easily find them for under $20 delivered in gift wrap.
 
Ok so i went with the Polaris R/R and i even bought the Furukawa QLW .250 Connectors. Now how do i hook this thing up. Ive searched the threads and all this is very confusing. Can someone point me to the thread with the proper install instructions?
 
Wigginton49 said:
Ok so i went with the Polaris R/R and i even bought the Furukawa QLW .250 Connectors. Now how do i hook this thing up. Ive searched the threads and all this is very confusing. Can someone point me to the thread with the proper install instructions?
Click to expand...

The connectors are nice if you can find a place for them to fit. I just did a direct solder.
 
Fit it like this... You need a strap on the left side & a small spacer tube or stack of washers plus a couple of longer 6mm bolts.

I also recommend filling the back of the fuse box with epoxy to stop the issue you see here in the pic beside the RR. (The contacts get lose & the wires then become disconnected in the back)

 
salty_monk said:
Fit it like this... You need a strap on the left side & a small spacer tube or stack of washers plus a couple of longer 6mm bolts.

I also recommend filling the back of the fuse box with epoxy to stop the issue you see here in the pic beside the RR. (The contacts get lose & the wires then become disconnected in the back)

Click to expand...

Compufire fits in the stock position (83 GS1100ED) with a little persuasion :o

The connector is remote from the device

IMG_5073.jpg
 
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You guys have been so helpful so far. Thanks. I tool some picutres and I was hopeing to make this as simple as possible.

The first picture I think are the wires coming from the stator. Two sets of yellow and white/blue wires and then a random green one. Now from what i can tell one yellow and one white/blue of those wire are the headlight lope you guys are always taking about.

The second picture (listed in a second post) shows the 4 wires coming out of the refectier I have now. A Red, white/blue,yellow, and white red. There are also these black wires that go no where and i am assuming are the grounds

Now do I have all the wires listed i need. Which wires go where on my new R/R. Like which 3 go on gray input and which 2 go in the black input. And what do i do with all the other wires.

Sorry this is so long I'm just trying to break this down and make it simple for me and anyone else who is having trouble.
 
No that is not correct. The yellow and white blue wires went to the separate regulator and rectifier in the stock setup. The green white wire took the trip through the light switch and back. You will be abandoning one yellow, one white blue, and both wires that made the switch loop whatever color they were. The only stator wires you are concerned with are yellow, white blue and the remaining green white. They can be traced to the stator and if you cut back into the stator wire bundle you will see where the second yellow and white blue were soldered to the original yellow and white blue wire. So, what you have coming from your stator is actually only three wires that you will use to connect to your new R/R. I am not familiar with the SH775 but if that is one in tom203's post #11, your three stator wires go where the three yellow ones are and the other two go to the positive and negative of the battery (additionally abandoning the stock positive feed wire). I would add a heavy ground to one of the mounting bolts for the heat sink.
 
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OldVet66 said:
These are the loop wires that went to the light switch. I plugged them together to get them out of the way. In the background you can see the stator wires hooked to the 10AWG wires coming from my CompuFire. your R/R is set up for spade plugs. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QPrC4gtNvDyIxM3CqHOeTCeFtZ98t6czQsF9KRSUYEg?feat=directlink
Click to expand...

Thanks that makes a lot of sense. Now thats what goes into the Gray side of the R/R im getting. now what plugs into the black input?
 
Click up the thumbnail in post #11. That will be the positive and negative to your battery. You will need to download the GS1000 manual from Basscliff to trace your wiring so you can abandon the stock positive feed to your wiring. The positive feed should be through a fused wire from the R/R because you will be bypassing your fuse box. You can get them at automotive stores. The best type would be for the automotive type spade fuses with a waterproof rubber cap. Pay attention that you use a proper crimping tool for the type of connectors that you use. The most common tools for crimping will just cause you headaches down the road. http://www.vintageconnections.com/
 
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Ok so tell me if I got this right. I get a totally new wire and hook it right onto the negative terminal of my battery and thats the "black wire". The positive red wire i'm a little confused on still. I see a red wire coming off my R/R now. I can't just plug that into my new R/R? Are you tell me what i have to do is trace it back to it's source take it out and put a whole new fused wire in it's place?
 
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