• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

1979 GS 1000 oil change, drain plug v's filter ??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jerro
  • Start date Start date
J

Jerro

Guest
Hi all, i'm a new fellow ex UK (England that is, not the Ukraine) living in Seattle. Just got hold of the above titled beast and wondered if anyone can tell me the following. If your exhaust system runs under the motor and covers any access to the oil drain plug when you want to do an oil change is it possible to drain the old oil when you take out the old oil filter or will some old oil remain in the sump and stuff things up? I think the answer might be "don't be a dick" but i really don't want to take the pipes off every time i do an oil change!--Thanks :confused:

Kiss my Asteroid
 
Only a little of it will come out the filter cover. Depending on the pipe configuration, it may be possible with the pipes on. I just use an open end wrench from the side, remove the drain plug and dump oil all over the pipes, then hose them off with spray carburetor cleaner before I start it up. Use a big piece of cardboard under the drain bucket, it tends to be messy. Start it up outside, it may smoke a bit from the little bit left on the pipes. The hard part is putting the plug back in...
Have fun.
 
You have to open the drain. There's not much oil in the filter cavity. If you can get a wrench in there, you can drain the oil by covering the pipes with aluminum foil, folded to direct the oil into a drain pan. If not, you should remove the pipes so you can properly drain the old oil.
 
If access to the plug is blocked, it sounds like there is likely an aftermarket header on the bike.

Unless you KNOW the history of the bike, it is highly recommended that you check the jetting in the carbs, especially if you also have individual "pod" air filters. A good time to chech the jetting would be when you take the carbs apart to clean them and install new o-rings.

Checking valve clearances should also be on your list of things to do before you ever fire up the bike, let alone go for a ride.

.
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Jerro,

Some pipes leave you room, some don't. You really need to drain the oil by removing the bolt from the oil pan. The oil filter cavity contains only a small amount of oil. Some members here can get their exhausts off in 10 minutes. Practice makes perfect. ;)

Let me share some GS lovin'. :)

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....:)

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Jerro said:
Hi all, i'm a new fellow ex UK (England that is, not the Ukraine) living in Seattle. Just got hold of the above titled beast and wondered if anyone can tell me the following. If your exhaust system runs under the motor and covers any access to the oil drain plug when you want to do an oil change is it possible to drain the old oil when you take out the old oil filter or will some old oil remain in the sump and stuff things up? I think the answer might be "don't be a dick" but i really don't want to take the pipes off every time i do an oil change!--Thanks :confused:

Kiss my Asteroid
Click to expand...

Since the pipe has to come off, start putting penetrating oil on the 8 bolts (or nuts) that hold it to the cylinder head

Those 8 bolts are where the challenge lies - if you're lucky, the last person who had them off use anti seize on them. IF not, prepare to use all those Anglo Saxon phrases you thought you left across the pond
 
Thankyou!

Thankyou!

Big thanks to all the wisdom i am being offered from GS resources, really amazing, appreciate it, respect to you all
 
It is definelty the most helpful forum I have ever joined :)
 
I'm following this this thread because I just pulled my exhaust and drained the oil... not much came out! I'd guess less than a quart. I first pulled the drain plug, then the filter. When I look in the window on the case, it looks to be full of oil still (window completely covered). Any suggestions? Thanks you guys!!!
 
take the clutch cover off and clean the window from the inside, a Q tip works fine, maybe a little alcohol or something.
 
you can pull the filter and not drain the oil..the oil pan will still be full. The oil pump has to fill the filter can while the bike is running. You will need to drain the oil from the bottom as well BEFORE you remove the clutch cover to clean the sight glass.
 
chuck hahn said:
You will need to drain the oil from the bottom as well BEFORE you remove the clutch cover to clean the sight glass.
Click to expand...
Not if you leave the bike on the side stand. :p

I have pulled the clutch cover several times to change the springs (on different bikes, mind you) and have never lost more than a couple of drips.

Along the same theme, you can also pull the stator cover on the left side if you put the bike on the centerstand and put a 2x4 under the left leg.
The bike is still very stable.

.
 
Neither of my pipes have room to do your method Tom... maybe if I released the pipe at the back end perhaps but I still don't think I could get near the filter.

I have seen a picture here of a sump (oil pan) with the drain location moved (off to one corner), have considered doing that myself (& still might as my 750's pan has to come off soon due to a hairline crack in it).
 
Window glass re oil level

Window glass re oil level

@ GS750cafe, hi there, i might be stating the obvious here but you may want to consider where the rest of your oil went since the last service, just in case! :eek:
 
Jerro,

Get that 1000 serviced and come down and ride with us next spring!
 
Re-Service bike and ride next Spring

Re-Service bike and ride next Spring

It'll take me that long to get the pipes back on but sounds like a good idea
 
Re-My oil change-79 GS 1000 -drain plug v's oil filter?

Re-My oil change-79 GS 1000 -drain plug v's oil filter?

Ok, so did pipes off, drain plug out, filter out, replace everything, hold tail section of pipes with left foot while pushing headers into engine block holes, eventually get nuts on to secure pipe headers!! I'm going to keep the mileage down so i don't have to do this too often. If i'd only drained the old oil from the filter then i'd still have dirty oil for sure. Thanks for the tips. So now i've inspected the 'new' m/cycle after the priority oil change and run the motor with a plastic fuel bottle i have more to do! Clean all carbs as with the test engine run number 1 and 4 pipes were not getting hot. blew out gunk via the drain plug at the base of bowl then 3 and 4 were not getting hot so stripped down carbs to clean. Have a question on where the 'o' ring goes on some needle adjusters which i'll post in a new thread! Also got a leaking tacho cable where it meets the motor (got the seals already!!). Also gotta put new brushes on the starter motor as the old ones are worn and starter sounded like it was trying to have a crap and a whole lot of 'straining'. Got some K & L repair carb kists ($27 friggin $ each!!!) Then gotta put it all back together and test run again and free up sticky clutch!. Air filter $18 in local bike shop $30 at Suzuki shop, f' em! Can't remember the rest but it's all good. Gotta go now and put up new thread ' 79 GS 1000 Carb needle 'O' rings correct position?' Thanks again :eek:
 
Hi,

Jerro said:
Clean all carbs as with the test engine run number 1 and 4 pipes were not getting hot. blew out gunk via the drain plug at the base of bowl then 3 and 4 were not getting hot so stripped down carbs to clean. Have a question on where the 'o' ring goes on some needle adjusters which i'll post in a new thread!
Click to expand...

See: http://www.thegsresources.com/files/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

...and order an O-ring kit from http://cycleorings.com. There's no need for the expensive, questionable quality "carb rebuild kits". Get new gaskets, re-use all the old jets and stuff, replace only what's necessary with OEM parts.

Also got a leaking tacho cable where it meets the motor (got the seals already!!).
Click to expand...

See: http://www.bwringer.com/gs/tachcableseals.html

Just trying to help. :)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thanks again

Thanks again

Thanks Basscliff, got all the bits now, still have to put new brushes on the starter motor which sounded like a strangled cake mixer and finish the carb assembling. I have never come across such a difficult route for a clutch cable to run from the handlebars to the clutch connection on the crankcase cover!! I've taken it off a couple of times now but i'll get it right. It's the little jobs that get you going! :confused:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top