1979 Suzuki GS850- Valve cover reinstall.

[emlivings]

Hi folks,
looking for the correct step by step to reinstall a gasket on the valve cover. Tightening bolts etc.
There's not too much info in my owner's manual like there is with a cylinder head install [pecking order etc.]

What I do know:
gasket
half moon plugs
permatex ultra black gasket sealer [ unless there's something that will perform better]
and Tightening the bolts to 6.5 ft/lbs

Any one else have any resources with pictures that i can follow ?

 

[tom203]

So are you anticipating removing it ,or is it already off? valve clearances check?
get a genuine Suzuki gasket….knockoffs can be iffy.
you’ll spend more time carefully removing old stuck on gasket then installing new one. Goop not needed on cover gasket, just light spray . Maybe some goop on half moons…if you need new ones..
Try to buy/borrow a small torque wrench….normal ones don’t work well under 10ftlbs

tighten bolts in two steps….starting at center and working to edges

 

[Burque73]

Definitely get some feeler gauges and check valve clearance while you're there, if you haven't. Even if the bike seems to run fine the clearance gets smaller as miles rack up and it'll do bad things if left unchecked.

If you're avoiding that because you don't have a gasket for the ignition (points) cover dont worry, there's no oil in there. You can just trace that cover on a cereal box and make a gasket.

Curious, tom203, what light spray are you referring to?

I've sprayed WD40 on them or even given a light smear of grease. This makes it way easier to pull off in 5k miles to take another peek at valve shims.

Something that helps during new gasket installation is to lay it on a piece of cardboad (the thin card gaskets come on works well) get it in position over the engine and slide the cardboard out feom underneath it. It'll drop right in place.

The bolts should be tightened from the center, near the cam chain, outward.

There's alway "while your in there" stuff you can do, like if the tachometer drive seal is leaking pop it out now and replace the O-ring and maybe the drive thing too. Sometimes they get stuck and having the cover off makes it easier to remove the drive. Oh, did we mention checking valve clearance.

 

[Nessism]

I suggest a small 1/4" ratchet wrench, and skip the torque wrench. Way too many threads get stripped from guys trying to hit a number on a torque wrench.

Goop on the round portion of the half moon. And agree on using an OEM gasket.`

 

[unfocused]

The service manual is available at BikeCliffs (forum superstar around here) someone knows the link. I'm at work and don't have it here.

If you want to use a torque wrench - make sure it's INCH pounds and not foot pounds. Nessism is correct and some of these issues can't be repaired.
Be nice with a 1/4 drive socket/rachet combo and you'll be ok.

After-market gaskets usually suck. No, not usually, they just do.

I goop the whole sealing surface on my half moons. My KZ1172 has aluminum ones and this is why I do this. Ultra black is good

Good time to adjust the valves or at least check them - same thing with the spark plugs and the timing chain. The auto tensioners tend to stick after years of neglect.

Also, you have a breather on top of the valve cover - pull it apart, check for residual oil and clean it out if needed. Clean the mesh inside as well but don't forget to put it in.

Tom is probably reffering to silicon spray, not sure though. I do this with carb gaskets to prevent ripping them apart...

 

[tom203]

”I suggest a small 1/4" ratchet wrench, and skip the torque wrench. Way too many threads get stripped from guys trying to hit a number on a torque wrench.“

I put off buying one 15 years ago…figured I wouldn’t use it much. But at this price I just bought one off bezos…note the name!


beats doing it the old way with the fish de-liar…yes, I stripped at least one last time…..little torque guy should be no worse than ratchet setup..hard to feel 7ftlbs on your fingers!

 

[tom203]

My old way….