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1980 GS 1000 - I'm in over my head

  • Thread starter Thread starter Roadrash 1000
  • Start date Start date
Roadrash 1000 said:
I'm trying to be patient but I've had the bike for almost 2 weeks now and I'm still where I started maybe worse. ha ha So I looked again at the bad/burnt connection. One end leads to the starter and the other went to a box with fins mounted under the battery box. Anybody know what that part is called and a way to test it? I know the starter works. Thanks again for everyones help.
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I think That is your regulator/rectifer,you are talking about and a new one runs about 70 bucks from www.z1enterprises.com have you ordered a manual for it yet?Go to www.motorbooksstore.com and see how much they want for one.Thats were I got mine.Also www.bikebandit.com is a good parts fiche to look at to identify parts when you dont know what they are.You are making progress though,You working on it and learning!
 
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Thanks tconroy for the help. I got a CD of ebay with 400 pages on it but it gives me a head ache. So is my part shot? There is a huge motorcycle graveyard by my house. Would you stay away from a used one? I don't care about the cost, $70 is cheap but I could have the used part in hand tomorrow.
 
Roadrash 1000 said:
Thanks tconroy for the help. I got a CD of ebay with 400 pages on it but it gives me a head ache. So is my part shot? There is a huge motorcycle graveyard by my house. Would you stay away from a used one? I don't care about the cost, $70 is cheap but I could have the used part in hand tomorrow.
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If cost is no problem I would go with new.You might wind up with the same problem down the road if you purchase used. Is your part shot? You will have to test it first to get that answer.When mine was going bad it just drained a little water out of my battery every week.Go to the front of this sight and look at the (in the garage) link that tells how to test the electricals.There is a way of testing the r/r but you should also test your stator.Also clean all your electrical contacts too.You need good connections everywhere.
 
Looks like he throwing in the towel

Looks like he throwing in the towel

Hey John,

I would never call someone a quitter and I understand these old bikes can be a handfull sometimes. I totally respect your decision to go looking for a different Bike. That ol GS has already added to your knowledge database cause I bet when you find a new one Youll be going on an extended test ride and now you have a little more insight on what to look for and ask about on a used bike. Good luck and I hope you find the right bike. This time of year can be a chance to find a great deal but without that ol GS running it may be a little difficult to unload. Hope to see ya on the road.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/261785686.html
 
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For testing purposes, you can and should run the bike without the charging system attached for several hours on a fully charged battery (see other posts about this). The fact that you didn't know what that box was indicates you need to study up quite a bit more about your bike's electrical system. Running with a just the ignition components enabled will eliminate the other circuits that may be shorting. You say you've had the bike for 2 years. Investing another 20-40 hours is worth it at this point. Finding the short should take no more than 10 hours even for someone who needs to learn the electrical system using a wiring diagram. Keep at it!
 
Roadrash 1000 said:
Hey Dave,The old man is supercool. We talk and email everyday. He lives a good hour and a half from my house. He said he could swing by on Wed. before he leaves town. I only paid $600 for the bike so I feel bad. He is really into bikes and wants to know whats wrong with it as much as I do. He said anytime I want to bring it back he'll give me a refund. Hats off to the old man.
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Your initial experiences are all to familiar to a 25 year old bike. The #1 troublesome issue is dirt and rust in the carbs. 90% of new GS'ers, carb issues is their 1st question. 2nd issue isusually electrical related. Sounds to me like you are very green at mechanics? We will help as best we can, but keep in mind we are trying to interpet your issue through your description, Try to find a local knowledagble person and bribe him to the max to help you at least get the basics of a GS. PICS are an awesome tool to help with your questions also!
 
Dave you are on the ball. The old man said that if I wanted to return it I needed to stop messing with it. He is afraid that I will do more harm than good, and he is right. ha ha He also said he would get it running for $100 plus parts. What a deal. The old guy is rich and leaves for vacation again soon. I hate to dump it back on him, mess around and make him work on it. I would like to get it going but I'm just not the guy to do it. The regulator/rectifier smokes when the key is left on. And a connection is burnt. I haven't even got to the carbs yet. The petcock gave me problems th first day, the list just goes on. I love to ride. I grew up in Japan as a kid and rode alot of bikes. I'm the kind of guy who doesn't even check the oil. ha ha But Dave is right. I am a differnt guy now and I know more, so I am lucky for that. The next bike will have to run and I'll have alot more questions. At least we got some snow so I can ride the snowmobile!!!
 
I only had the bike for 2 weeks not 2 years. If I had it that long and still had problems I'd pitch it in the lake. I emailed the old man this morning and told him I'd better bring it back. The key here is patients and I have run out. Yes I am very green when it comes to fixing. Thanks guys for trying to help me. I felt better with people behind me. If I get a GS I'll be back. John
 
Roadrash 1000 said:
I'm trying to be patient but I've had the bike for almost 2 weeks now and I'm still where I started maybe worse. ha ha So I looked again at the bad/burnt connection. One end leads to the starter and the other went to a box with fins mounted under the battery box. Anybody know what that part is called and a way to test it? I know the starter works. Thanks again for everyones help.
Click to expand...

You aren't worse, because you've learned a lot.

Patience is necessary when learning to repair anything. It helps if you can treat it as a puzzle that is fun to figure out. However, if the old man will actually get it running for $100 plus parts, that would be a great deal. Strike a deal with him in which he does it while you watch and learn. Even if it is a 3 hour round trip and you have to make it several weekends in a row, it will be worth it.

Most petcocks can be repaired using a kit that replaces the rubber parts. The kit costs $20 and installation takes an hour. If gas is leaking from the tank, that or replacing gas lines will likely fix it. The special rubber tubing used for gas lines is available at any auto parts store. This site has instructions for rebuilding carburetors. Don't spend $140 each.

A 1980 GS1000G, properly cared for, will last a good 100,000 miles. Don't get impatient or scared.
 
Talking of dirt & rust in the carbs is it a good idea to put a cheap disposable fuel filter in the fuel line? (asking for myself as much as you, sorry!!)

Dan :)
 
The old man is taking it back for my $100 fixing. ha ha I got lucky. So I won't be crying on here for a while till something goes wrong. When I'm rolling down the road wide open and someone passes me I'll know it you Dave. Ha Ha Take it easy guys.
 
salty_monk said:
Talking of dirt & rust in the carbs is it a good idea to put a cheap disposable fuel filter in the fuel line? (asking for myself as much as you, sorry!!)

Dan :)
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NOTE!!! it is VITALLY important you do not use an automotive fuel filter!!!
You MUST use a specific to mototcycles one or a lawnmower one.
All automotive fuel filters are designed to work pressurised; admittedly low pressure, 3-5 psi, so they will starve your bike for fuel. Motorcycles work on gravity feed fuel systems, so there is no pressure(above atmospherical).

Dink
 
salty_monk said:
Ok thanks. But it is a good idea?

Dan :)
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It would be a bandaide. Some petcocks have a filter screen around them already. My tank and petcock position would make it hard to get one installed. I guess if theres no way to gaurentee all the rust is out of your tank, Why not. Do like Dink says... use a MC or lawnmower in line filter and make sure any extra fuel or vac lines you incorporate dont get kinked when you put the tank on.

And John, If I do see you on the side of the road Ill be the first to stop.
 
GS1000G Blues eh?

GS1000G Blues eh?

First off I hope Im not too late. I bought the same bike nearly 3 years ago and I use it everyday in Manhattan. Its the best thing I've ever owned. Your trouble sound like electrical crap. Since the bike is nearly 27 years old this process would do it a favor and it doesn't cost more than a few bucks and it it should take you around 3 hours to do it.

I'm not big on Clymer books but I did get a shop manual on ebay. I might even go out and make a copy of mine for you for whatever kinko's charges plus shipping (USPS). However, this procedure requires:

2 dental probes. One pointed and one flat.
1 small tube of dielectrical grease (bought at any auto store).
and some WD40 for cleaning connectors.

Now what you would want to do is remove the gas tank but don't forget to disconnect the battery first. We don't want you to blow up! All throughout the chassis there are several electrical connectors. Take them apart (but dont break them cause you need to reconnect them), with your dental probes scape out as much crap as you can if its real stubborn shoot it with a touch of WD40. Then apply to all contacts the dielectrical grease. If you do every connector you will be making sure there is zero water within the shields and you will find if there are any burned out contacts.

I did this to both my GS1000 and a BMW bike. My buddy has a shop nearby and one of his customers had a BMW that would shut down after being on for about 15 minutes. Enough time for condensation to create steam creating a short circuit. So my buddy called me b/c I am an electronics geek and thought I could help.

What happens is and especially in BMW's the contacts are all water tight until they age. Water seeps over time but cant escape tripping both negative and positive connections or making enough build up to where the contacts cant connect.

Good luck and keep me posted!!!

Damian
 
Hey Damian, Thanks for offering to go out of your way and make me a copy of your shop manual. But I got one off ebay in CD form last week. I found out the old man is a retired teacher. On Friday I'm running it over so he can work on it in his porch. ha ha
 
djp420 said:
2 dental probes. One pointed and one flat.
1 small tube of dielectrical grease (bought at any auto store).
and some WD40 for cleaning connectors.
Click to expand...

Why WD40 and not a purpose-made electrical contact clearner such as GC Bath?
 
just like Chef1366 said

just like Chef1366 said

The old man figured it out right away. He fixed the bad conection at one of the wires and the problem was at the fuse box. I thought I cleaned it good but I guess not. ha ha He took it apart and said it need some fixing and cleaning. I asked if he had a chance to start it and he is like everybody on this site. He talks about patience. ha ha I'm learning. My job is to clean the tank and when he gets back from Mexico again he'll look at the carbs next. I just wanted to let Chef1366 know that he was right, good call.
 
Hey Bill, thanks again for the artical. Ya I was lucky to buy the bike from such a cool old guy. He totally bailed me out. The bad part is I think $100 for his work is to cheap. He likes his beer so I'll have to give him a 10 case bonus. ha ha
 
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