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1980 GS 750L timing marks 180 off?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 2005JJT
  • Start date Start date
2

2005JJT

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I have a 1980 GS750L. I was checking timing and my marks lined up.
#1 to lip of gasket 2 straight up 20 links and number 3. The questions is when I lined this up I had no clearance on most of the valves that I should have. They are touching? Rotate and the others have almost same issue.:confused: Could I be 180 off and what is a quick way to check this.

The bike hasn't been ran in 13 years. Restoring from ground up.

I have carbs off and valve cover off. Is it possible to see if I have a burnt valve. Thanx, JT
 
I was just thinkiing that the notches on the camshaft should be on the right side. This should be the side that the timing generator is on. Is this correct? I sware I'm not as dumb as this sounds. I took cams off and blanked. I put it back and just doesn't seem right. Any feedback would be great. Thanx, JT
 
With the timing mark on T on the rotor facing the rear signal generator the notches in the cams should be facing each other. If you have them both facing right then the exhaust cam is 180 out.
 
Okay, I misunderstood your question. Yes the notches should be on the right side of the engine. They should be facing each other as I pointed out in the last response.
 
You got what I was saying. I just got home and checked. The way you noted is the way they are set up. The valves must just be zero clearance. This would explain why it's so tight to turn the cranck. One more question and these is why I seem confused. I set the timing marks on TDC (T) 1,2,3 tighten it up and put the tensioner on. Still lined up perfect. Then I rotate one full turn then my #1 is pointed to the inside gasket. Rotate another turn then goes back to perfect line up. This makes since intake then exhaust. My question I guess is it possible to line my timing up to the wrong stroke. Exhaust verse intake.
 
You should be OK as long as you have checked the following :

1) The cylinders 1 & 4 TDC mark on the crank lines up with the vertical marker AND the "1" arrow on the Exhaust cam lines up with the top of the cylinder block .
2) 20 chain pins between the "2" and "3" arrow marks on exhaust and inlet cams.
3) Cam chain tensioner and jockey sprocket installed and working.

The "1" arrow mark may not line up exactly with the cylinder block, but it should be pretty close (within one chain pin).
Rotate the crank clockwise a few times by hand/spanner before double checking that everything still lines up, chain tensioner works OK and there are no obstructions.

When you are sure everything is fine, check valve clearances etc.
 
Thanx.....This site is great. I hand cranked it around and notice the chain tensioner was acting funny. I pulled it out and reset. Then shoved it back in. Turned some more and big change. I just fixed valve clearance and now big difference. This is the first one that I have worked on and just didn't want to toast motor out the gate. I just ordered tank, airbox and some carb. pieces. I figure next week will be the fuel issues. I printed out the carb cleaner pages. There must be some big issues with these because 80% of the pages I read have something to do with carbs.

I just wanted to thank you guys that replied. Life Saver or GSR SAVER. Thanx, JT
 
You could run it 180 degrees off as long as you remembered to swap the plug or coil wires...

Anyway, this may be of help:
http://www.bwringer.com/gs/tdc.html

It's a pretty new page, so let me know if you spot any problems.
 
I liked the site. Nice pics and good info. I can see that it had up and coming are you going to have it complete soon. I didn't see a blog. This is what will attract people. Good work. Thanx, JT
 
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