1980 gs550e pod filters

[Guest]

Hi, I have a pod filter question? I?m trying to get my 1980 gs550e running and the stock airbox rubber is shrunk and can?t refit. I?ve tried many times. I?m going to go with pod filters and re-jet. Where is a good place to get pod filters and a jet kit for bs32 cv carbs? Any thoughts. Much appreciated.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Why not just buy new rubber? They are still available and you won’t need to deal with the headaches associated with tuning for the pods

 

[Guest]

CV carbs can be difficult to adjust to pods. Not impossible, but fiddly. Also, some pods foul the frame on the 550s, so you need to be careful which set you buy. Personally I would buy new airbox rubbers. If you want to go down the pods route, google 6sigma and dynojet.

 

[Guest]

Ok, thanks I?ll try and source out new rubber, it would be nice to not have to mess around with jetting etc. Is there a good place to look into the rubber? Thanks for the feedback!

 

[cowboyup3371]

Any Suzuki dealership can get parts for you. Parts Outlaw in Florida is less expensive on parts but will take about two weeks to get it to you. Before you think that’s long, remember no one keeps stocks locally and must go to the warehouse for it. That takes the same time for everyone, including your local dealer, which is a few days to a week or two. Then, any of them who are out of town must mail it which can take another week.

 

[Guest]

CV carbs can be difficult to adjust to pods. Not impossible, but fiddly. Also, some pods foul the frame on the 550s, so you need to be careful which set you buy. Personally I would buy new airbox rubbers. If you want to go down the pods route, google 6sigma and dynojet.

I put back on the rubbers and they seemed to go on for the most part but still won?t idle. I could try to totally make them seal with tape or something to make sure. Hmmm.

 

[jimhickcox]

FWIW, I'm running UNIs on my 550 (PK-82 is the model number, I think), and it wasn't a huge pain to tune for. It needed rejetting for sure. I re-re-jetted relatively recently after putting a 650 top end on it, but I can dig around and find the jets I pulled out if you want to know what size they were when it was stock.

The pods are three inches long, and the space for the two on the sides is closer to two and half inches, so those two butt up against the frame. They have urethane end caps, so they haven't fouled the frame, but they do crunch a little bit and need to be replaced more frequently than they would otherwise. If anyone knows a comparable filter that fits better, I'd love to know about it. Every time I buy new ones I think about doing surgery on old ones to make them shorter and tossing new UNI foam on there, but the process of glueing the foam into a circle seems pretty tentative to me, and I don't know how much shortening them a half an inch will change the airflow.

All that said, if you can run the airbox I think that's smarter.

 

[jimhickcox]

I put back on the rubbers and they seemed to go on for the most part but still won’t idle. I could try to totally make them seal with tape or something to make sure. Hmmm.

Have you tried spraying them with carb cleaner or something while the engine is running to see if there are air leaks?

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the info. I was told my compression might be low affecting idle? Or tight valves? Would that prevent the bike from idling? I hope it?s not bad compression, yikes. I?ll have to check it.

 

[Guest]

Have you tried spraying them with carb cleaner or something while the engine is running to see if there are air leaks?

I did around the intake boots and seemed ok.

 

[jimhickcox]

Definitely check your valve clearances. It's pretty easy to do, and can save you from damage. If they're running tight (they should tighten up with use) they'll restrict airflow, yeah. Compression is a pretty easy check, too.

 

[Guest]

I checked my compression and it?s reading about 120 psi on all four? check valves? Would that be the culprit? Thx.

 

[jimhickcox]

All four the same is great, and 120 is dandy.
What do you mean by check valves? You may know I thing I don't (there's a lot I don't), but I've only ever checked compression by screwing the tool into the spark plug hole.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Download a factory service manual from BikeCliffs Website and look up the valve clearance checking procedure. Your gonna need feeler gauges and most likely a new valve cover gasket. There is a procedure also outlined on BikeCliffs Website, IIRC, for using zip ties to hold the valves open while you check clearance. Be prepared to have the bike inoperable for a while as you?ll likely have to source some shims.

It would be a good idea to email member Steve to have him send you his excel spreadsheet for easy calculations of existing clearance/shims to what shims you may need.

 

[Guest]

All four the same is great, and 120 is dandy.
What do you mean by check valves? You may know I thing I don't (there's a lot I don't), but I've only ever checked compression by screwing the tool into the spark plug hole.

What I meant was actually ?check the valves? to see if that was the culprit for the low compression readings, as you mentioned though.. 120 psi is OK?

 

[Guest]

I noticed that the bike is missing the intake to carb box breather hose, would that impact it not idling?

 

[Guest]

Also, besides the vacuum to the petcock do these cv bs32 carbs have another vacuum I might be missing? I see the two drain hoses.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

No, and No and No.

There is a hose on top of the valve cover that should connect to the airbox. It’s absence will not affect running other than possibly a bit of extra air getting into the airbox. If running pods. The valve cover breather could have a tube connected to a small pod type filter or oil catch can of a sort so the oil vapor doesn’t drip into the carbs or top of engine case, making a mess.

There is only one FUEL vacuum line from the smaller nipple on the petcock to the nipple on the front of carb body #2.

The carbs don’t have drain hoses. They have two vent hoses that should be attaches to the ports between carbs 1&2 and between carbs 3&4. See BikeCliffs Website for CV carb cleaning tutorial. But here is the proper hose connections. The second vent hose connection between 3&4 is not shown in the pic.

 

[Kara25]

K&N RC2382 dual lunchbox filters and DYNOJET STAGE 3 if you put a 4-1 and remove the air box all together. Do it now and have peace of mind. I was stalling and stalling on pulling the trigger but it?s totally worth it. Cleaner look, carbs that function properly without guessing what jets to buy. See my latest thread I have all the info of the setup and installation there

 

[Guest]

No, and No and No.

There is a hose on top of the valve cover that should connect to the airbox. It?s absence will not affect running other than possibly a bit of extra air getting into the airbox. If running pods. The valve cover breather could have a tube connected to a small pod type filter or oil catch can of a sort so the oil vapor doesn?t drip into the carbs or top of engine case, making a mess.

There is only one FUEL vacuum line from the smaller nipple on the petcock to the nipple on the front of carb body #2.

The carbs don?t have drain hoses. They have two vent hoses that should be attaches to the ports between carbs 1&2 and between carbs 3&4. See BikeCliffs Website for CV carb cleaning tutorial. But here is the proper hose connections. The second vent hose connection between 3&4 is not shown in the pic.

thanks for the pic! Got the manual and will get to the valves when time permits. Is 120 psi ok on this motor? Maybe it will change once the valves are in spec. Thx.