1980 GS750L total rebuild from ground up to Cafe style

[NickyGS750]

Use Hoppes#9 bore cleaner for your brass carb parts, you will never get them cleaner! Rinse with IPA after, not IPA beer though, that's to enjoy while they are soaking

Good point!! I have a bunch, why didnt i think of that haha thank you! IPA yes! Now you're talking!

 

[nvr2old]

Did a little debadging on the gas tank. Those things were really on there. Figured id be drilling through the tank, even being careful it actually happened. I might just end up cutting that dented section out and tack/weld a new piece in it, lots of the rust pitting.
Also that rust jelly sure doesnt work like it used to... im going on 5 coats on each side so far...

I wouldn't worry about cutting out that whole section and replacing it. Maybe just take a wire wheel on a drill to it at this stage, get it as clean as possible, and tig weld the hole(s) closed. Then just fill it with a good quality body filler. So much easier.

 

[NickyGS750]

I wouldn't worry about cutting out that whole section and replacing it. Maybe just take a wire wheel on a drill to it at this stage, get it as clean as possible, and tig weld the hole(s) closed. Then just fill it with a good quality body filler. So much easier.

True! Gotta get some filler made for powder coating tho... some good ol Alvins lab metal

 

[nvr2old]

I didn't know there was a filler that will stand up to the heat of powder coating. I've never heard of Alvins lab metal. Is it a product that can be sanded smooth to the point of scratches not showing up under powder coat..especially black..which reveals everything?

 

[jsandidge]

I've heard the lab metal is good, but I haven't used it. What I have used is regular ol' JB weld. Works just fine.

 

[NickyGS750]

I didn't know there was a filler that will stand up to the heat of powder coating. I've never heard of Alvins lab metal. Is it a product that can be sanded smooth to the point of scratches not showing up under powder coat..especially black..which reveals everything?

Its great stuff! Yes, definitely can be sanded to give that nice finished look. If its done right itll never show, especially with black. Its not cheap but its the best out there... i used to use JB weld before i found lab metal...

 

[Steve]

So many little parts to keep track of, tedious cleaning... i cant be the only one who hates all these phillip head screws on these bikes... one major thing im changing... all the phillips screws into hex... make life easier.

Have fun getting the throttle plates back on the shafts. :-\\\

The stock screws were staked into place to prevent them EVER coming out accidentally. Trying to get everything positioned so you can peen the ends of the screws will be loads of fun.

The Allen-head (socket head) screw kits are nice, but they are usually just for the caps and bowls. Not sure if that kit includes the mounting rails.

.

 

[NickyGS750]

Have fun getting the throttle plates back on the shafts. :-\\\

The stock screws were staked into place to prevent them EVER coming out accidentally. Trying to get everything positioned so you can peen the ends of the screws will be loads of fun.

The Allen-head (socket head) screw kits are nice, but they are usually just for the caps and bowls. Not sure if that kit includes the mounting rails.

.

Oh yes i know haha itll be "fun".
I think the one kit i found did include the rails... ill have to look again

 

[Guest]

Have fun getting the throttle plates back on the shafts. :-\\\

The stock screws were staked into place to prevent them EVER coming out accidentally. Trying to get everything positioned so you can peen the ends of the screws will be loads of fun.

The Allen-head (socket head) screw kits are nice, but they are usually just for the caps and bowls. Not sure if that kit includes the mounting rails.

.

Couldn't he just use Locktite on the blade screws?

 

[NickyGS750]

Since no auto or parts store carries any valve spring compressor sets i had to improvise since im not waiting for shipping if i order one online.... so i made my own... easy. Time to take out some valves!

YUP worked great!!

Now time for cleaning! Whats the preference with the valve guide's, leave them in or taken em out, they look in great shape.

 

[orangechicken007]

Great idea on that tool, never would have thought of that!!!

 

[Fjbj40]

Do not remove the guides unless you are replacing them. Just measure, they are probably within tolerance.

 

[NickyGS750]

Do not remove the guides unless you are replacing them. Just measure, they are probably within tolerance.

Perfect, thank you!

 

[glib]

Nice orderly work areas. Very clean. Gives me some inspiration.

In your first post, the bike that is an example of the completed product--I was trying to pick out the things that make it different from some of the "craigslist funnies" abominations that feed our purist attitudes (because it is mostly pretty cool) and one thing is that the builder added a seat support (u-shape supporting the back few inches of the seat). The hack jobs just leave that off--too much work I guess. Anyway it's the details that make a modded bike a thing of beauty. Looks like you know what you are doing.

 

[Steve]

Since no auto or parts store carries any valve spring compressor sets i had to improvise since im not waiting for shipping if i order one online.... so i made my own... easy. Time to take out some valves!

I did pretty much the same thing, except I don't have a welder, so I used a 24mm deep socket and cut a window in the side.

Whats the preference with the valve guide's, leave them in or taken em out, they look in great shape.

There is a member here by the name of "Nessism" who has some very good advice in his signature:

To measure is to know.

You don't necessarily have to get out the calipers and gauges, just hold the valve in the guide and wiggle it sideways to see if it moves too much. There should be virtually NO sideways movement.
Generally, they don't need to be replaced, but "stuff" does happen occasionally that requires that bit of work.

.

 

[Guest]

You can put a wadded up rag under the head in the combustion chamber area, put a socket of the appropriate size on top of the valve and hit the socket with a hammer. The keepers will pop out. Takes all of 10 seconds to remove a valve.

 

[fortysixand2]

Will follow this *subscribe*

 

[NickyGS750]

Nice orderly work areas. Very clean. Gives me some inspiration.

In your first post, the bike that is an example of the completed product--I was trying to pick out the things that make it different from some of the "craigslist funnies" abominations that feed our purist attitudes (because it is mostly pretty cool) and one thing is that the builder added a seat support (u-shape supporting the back few inches of the seat). The hack jobs just leave that off--too much work I guess. Anyway it's the details that make a modded bike a thing of beauty. Looks like you know what you are doing.

Thank you! It definitely helps.

Oh ive seen those too, its a shame... hopefully ill get that curved tail welded on here in a couple weeks, i really like that look... clean and doesn't take away from the bikes lines.

 

[NickyGS750]

I did pretty much the same thing, except I don't have a welder, so I used a 24mm deep socket and cut a window in the side.

Definitely works! Ya i didnt feel like breaking out the welder, i just used that jb weld steel stick... sets up in minutes and drys in an hour. Did the trick.

There is a member here by the name of "Nessism" who has some very good advice in his signature:

Ill have to find that, any info is great, thank you!

You don't necessarily have to get out the calipers and gauges, just hold the valve in the guide and wiggle it sideways to see if it moves too much. There should be virtually NO sideways movement.
Generally, they don't need to be replaced, but "stuff" does happen occasionally that requires that bit of work.

Great to know, i do have a 1980 original service manual in my shop binder, it says to do a (if i recall, a 5.5mm reamer) in the guide. Any thoughts on that?

 

[NickyGS750]

You can put a wadded up rag under the head in the combustion chamber area, put a socket of the appropriate size on top of the valve and hit the socket with a hammer. The keepers will pop out. Takes all of 10 seconds to remove a valve.

Well i wish i knew that or saw that video before haha