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1980 GS850L Almost done, needs some help

  • Thread starter Thread starter KingWombat
  • Start date Start date
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KingWombat

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I've been following allot of tutorials and guides from this site, and I have some pictures and questions as I finish the bike up
Some history, odometer and title read under 9k miles, was stored well sense 2012. Bought it from a friend, all he knew was needed a ignition box and a carb cleaning. As soon as I put in a replacement ignition box, I had all ready changed all my fluids and it started with a rather high idle, but driveable. So currently I've gone threw allot of tune up steps and my battery isn't charging and seems to be my last problem. I currently have the carbs in cleaner and have noticed some strange wires here and there that are not connected or where really badly connected. I know my gas gauge hasn't been hooked up for awhile as well, not a real concern of mine. Also my next set back from testing the stator is that its wires have been soldered together, do I have have to dissconnect them for a stator test?
 

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Yes, you need to disconnect those wires. Check AC voltage across the various combination of wires while reving the engine to 5000 rpm. You should have about 75 volts AC. Assuming yes, your stator is most likely okay. Get a SH-775 R/R and wire it up. Connect the stator wires direct to the R/R, bypassing the factory wiring. Make sure you get a good ground from the R/R to the frame or battery, and then connect the power output wire into your fuse box or direct to the battery with a fuse inline.

There is tons of info about these details both on Basscliff's website and in the archives here. Check the newbie mistakes and carb rebuild tutorial links in my signature if you want to know what to look out for too.

Good luck
 
Whats the difference between a SH-775 and a SH-775BA? Ive been watching eBay for one and I see allot of the 775BA's on there and the look identical. Thank you for the newbie mistakes thread, reminded me of my 1st bike a Yamaha XS1100. That's why I'm taking the process very slow with a experienced bike mechanic helping/watching me. The Stator had a good ohm resistance/short test. Before I put the carbs back in to test for the volts, I'm waiting on Intake Boot O-Rings
 
SH-775BA is printed on the RR. Some ebay sales simply say it's a SH-775 and skip the BA. Should be the same.
 
My next issue is, I cant remove Shaft drives gear oil filler screw . Its lightly stripped but I can still get a firm grip on it with a adjustable crescent wrench. I'v already ordered a replacement screw for it
 
You will need to buy and use some proper sockets,wrenches and JIS screw drivers. Trying to use crescent wrenches on 30 year old bikes will not work out good, and you will ruin alot of fasteners.
 
Does the SH-775 need a apdater to fit on? it looks like a close fit, more bad screws slowing me down, thankfully my neighbor has a impact driver. Other wise replacing the stator and R/R this weekend. Thanks for all your help so far
 
The bolt spacing on the SH775 is about 1/4" too wide, if I recall correctly (And it's thicker, I seem to remember having to use longer bolts.)

The right way to do it is grind off one of the tack-welded nuts, elongate the hole, and then retack the old nut (or a new one) in the proper place.

Or you can cheat and cut the R/R mounting tab down the middle and then bend the tabs outward a bit to space the holes apart far enough to mount the new R/R. This is what I did. It's solid enough for my purposes but if you want to take the extra time, you can then join the tabs back together by bridging them with a small piece of sheet metal or something.
 
Got the SH775 mounted, the old R/R was soldered in all over the place cable wise. I snipped and taped up the old connections. Are these random wires that were part of the old R/R going to affect anything now that there disconnected? Also Ive got the stator out, nice and black and crispy, installing the new one soon, waiting for new stator cover screws that forgot to get shipped last week. But Im running straight to battery with a 30amp inline fuse, if theres anything I need to know wiring that in please tell me, I've been looking for forums focusing on installing that but keep finding them focusing on the stator
 
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New stator ready, is that replacement screw gonna hurt anything?
 
Does any one have a guide for what screws go where on the stator cover? I had to replace them all, and didn't realize they were different lengths till to late.
 
KingWombat said:
Does any one have a guide for what screws go where on the stator cover? I had to replace them all, and didn't realize they were different lengths till to late.
Click to expand...

Install the screws in without tightening, shuffling them around into different holes until they all stick out roughly the same distance, then tighten.
 
A little tip here for the next time. When removing stator screws I take a piece of cardboard and punch the screw into the cardboard in the same position that I took it off the bike. Makes it a lot easier on re-assembly which may be days ahead.
 
Stator done, next I need a new shaft drive filler plug/screw. Mine is next to stripped round but now loose.
 
New electrical works, waiting on new Shaft Drive Filler Screw, and Carb Drain O-rings then its time for a fresh start. Should let you all know again by Thursday next week.
 
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So getting her all ready today, realized I may have a somewhat stripped drain plug on the pan side. I have the bolt that was in it when I got it, I can shove it freely in and out and it has a blue plastic piece on it, no idea how it was holding to begin with. Secondly I purchased a replacement drain plug from a 1980 GS850GT, it threads but gets about 70% and looses it. In the future I plan to replace the oil pan but are the any cheap fixes or temp fixes till then?

Once again thanks BikeCliff's website.... its got it all lol
 
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Looking for advice at this point, Should I;
Install a piggyback drain bolt and test my new alternator installation, SH775 R/R, Carb Clean, and compression.
Or Remove my drain pan and get a Time Sert Installed/ threads re-drilled?
 
If I were doing it, I would go ahead and fix the drain pan now and be done with it.
 
Thats all I needed to point me in my next direction, now is this pan going to come off with out the exhaust pipes coming off....
 
Well due to some pan dings a couple of the hex bolts are dented, so as I look for a new pan I decided to go the piggy back route for now. Cut new threads with a greased over sized piggy back, cleaned all shards as I went, JB welded the threads. Tomorrow I will be attempting the compression tests and then starting the engine if all goes well!
 
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