1981 GS1100E Engine noise

[Guest]

Ok so I bought the GS1100 last November from the owner who last rode it in 2005 when it developed a noise in the bottom end that be chocked up to being a bad main bearing as his uneducated guess.
I picked it up for 300 dollars in a filthy state of being covered with a tarp outside all these years. I researched the bike and famous clutch rattle before I even gave him an offer and have been hoping all along that's all it is.
Finally the other day I decided I had time to check it out, removed the gas tank full of old fuel and stuck fuel petcock and hooked up a makeshift fuel tank. A couple shots of starting fluid and it barked to life.
After a few minutes it was ready to idle on her own. At idle there is definite rattle and pulling in the clutch makes no difference but raising the rpms just a bit and it smooths out.....its a pretty ugly rattle.
So....I pulled the clutch cover and found the clutch hub nut loose and 3 of the 6 damper springs loose to where you can play it as a tambourine in a band. I was pretty sure I found the problem so I tried to put a band aid on it just to prove that was my noise. I spread the springs much as I could with a flat tip screwdriver and tightened them up quit a bit and assembled everything with 40ft/lbs on the hub nut. Again just to rule it out, I will be ordering the APE heavy backing plate/springs/rivets and doing it correctly. So buttoned back up and it may have gotten a little better but the majority of the noise is still there.
Next I pulled the other sides cover to get a look at the starter clutch. I dont have a flywheel puller and of course either does the dealer in my area so I will have to order one. What I can see is the 3 bolt ends coming in from the back of the flywheel 2 of which are almost backed out....3 one is some what loose as well. I can move the starter clutch somewhat independent of the flywheel and there was a little bit of metal filings (not an ungodly amount) on the flywheel magnets yet I cannot see anything bothered up from around the sides with a flashlight that stands out. So I know I need to get in there to see what's what and tighten everything up but what's the opinion while I wait for a puller to get to Alaska in the mail? Would this cause the bottom end rattle I'm hearing? I took some videos but not sure I can get em on here but I'll give it a shot.

 

[Guest]

Yea the videos aren't happening for me....

 

[Big T]

Yes, the loose screws will create a lot of noise
Get some 10.8 hard replacement bolts and use red locktite when installing.

You can pull the swingarm pivot bolt and use that as a puller

 

[Guest]

BigT thanks for the assurance that I'm on the right track. Now the pivot bolt for the swingarm as a flywheel puller? Really?? How does that work?

 

[81gs7501166]

Same thread.

 

[Big T]

Same thread.

To elaborate, put your bike on the centerstand and extract the swingarm pivot bolt.
Remove the left side cover, and the nut holding the rotor.
Insert the pivot bolt into rotor and tighten till the rotor pops off. You can do this because the pivot bolt is the same size and thread pitch as the rotor (what he said)
Do not use a jaw puller or hammer on the rotor. You can tap on it with a rubber mallet
Is it that easy? maybe not. The rotor is often stuck on there pretty good after a few decades.You may end up getting the puller anyway

 

[blowerbike]

nope....won't work.
there's a threaded shaft sticking out....how do you thread a bolt into it?
FYI
this model needs the large threaded puller....

 

[Guest]

Blowerbike, yea I was scratching my head at the idea as the flywheel has what looks to be a 30mm or so thread that the puller would thread onto and then a center bolt to mate up against crank surface... wish I could just pull the swingarm bolt, we wait a while for deliveries through the mail here in Alaska. Havent ordered yet, want to exhaust my search local mabey even see if a shop will let me borrow. Long shot but I'll poke around today.
Hope I dont find damaged parts behind that flywheel.

 

[Guest]

Well while I'm waiting for a puller I spent some time getting years of grease, oil and dirt of her to see what I have. I got GOBS of cleaning and polishing to do on the poor girl after all the mechanics are taken care of.

 

[Grimly]

Looks like that will clean up well.

 

[steve murdoch]

Looks decent in that pic.
Stock exhaust solid?

 

[Guest]

Stock exhaust is solid, just some surface rust here and there with a little pitting on the underneath. I'll remove it and go over and over it with my dose of OCD and see how far back to new I can get it.
The whole bike needs a healthy bit of elbow grease. From what I can tell the only bits I am missing is the airbox over the battery and right side plastic side cover, will have to source those. How about the round mirrors, are those stock or aftermarket? Seems I see pics with square mirrors.

 

[steve murdoch]

Pit Replica make excellent quality seat covers. The patterns are very close to stock.
https://www.ebay.com/str/pitreplica

A Google check shows round and chrome mirrors in the magazine pics.

 

[Guest]

Definitely will check out the seat covers!

 

[Grimly]

As for mirrors, my preferred option is the larger rectangular ones fitted to some models of the GSF Bandit, etc. There are some quite good quality aftermarket replicas of them, too. Just avoid the junky ones.
I really don't like the circular ones, even if they were original - used to find myself bobbing around like a budgerigar to make sure I hadn't missed anything in the mirror.

 

[Guest]

Ok, I finally got the flywheel puller in the mail and just popped off the flywheel and assembly. I look at this as a victory, I bought the bike from the previous owner who parked it many years ago at his first notice of bottom end noise. I'm very confident this is the culprit of all that gnarly bottom end noise I heard at idle.
As I figured the one bolt was snapped off and the other two where backed almost all the way out. The one that's broken in the flywheel is a tad rough but if I can draw it out of there it looks like it is still good to use after chasing the threads to make sure they are clean at the start of the hole. I expected to find more damage behind there than I did, so again to me its a victory and I'm happy.
What's some suggestions of the best way to get that broken bolt out? I'm hoping it wont be too rough to extract....I'll start to tackle it tomorrow. Also have to try to find bolt replacements of the correct grade, and yes there will be red locktite involved! A good day!!

 

[Guest]

Another pic...

 

[Guest]

Got the broken off bolt out after a bit of effort, a couple 3/32" drill bits and a broken easy out. Metal was very slightly peened over the start of the threads so I easily cleaned up the threads with a tap and cleaned all the parts as well as inspecting close for damage. All is good just need 3 new bolts in the 10.8 grade suggested here. I have a feeling that will be an issue finding here in Anchorage but I'm going to try our local Fire and Fastner specialty nut and bolt house tomorrow.