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1982 GS 650 GL Bobber build

  • Thread starter Thread starter Krunk_Kracker
  • Start date Start date
Got the bike running tonight!! Rode it around the neighborhood...it felt soo good to ride it around the block, even though it was barely running and wouldn't go past 4K, lol. The carbs need a bench sync badly.

I put in the green Dyna coils, installed the new red 7mm plug wires with the NGK resistor boots. I left the crappy (and probably OEM! :eek: ) plugs in until I can do a bench sync on the carbs tomorrow. It was only firing on 2 cylinders, and I checked spark on all 4 wires and it was blue and strong, so I know it's probably a combination of having crappy spark plugs and the carbs needing a sync.

I'm going to go ahead and install the Dynojet kit tomorrow since I have pods and straight-through baffled mufflers, which leads me to my next question.

The Dynajet kit looks very good and high quality, but I have a few questions.

I want to reference the email that the Dynojet rep sent me:

Unfortunately the install guide is no longer available for your application. The glue is supplied to secure the main air jet correctors in-place DCO302 main air jet corrector. They get installed in the main air jet in the mouth of the carbs. The large screw is to remove the mixture screw plug if it is still in-place. You would drill a hole in the mixture screw plug with the DD5/32 drill and then use the screw to remove the plug.

Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.

Thank You!

Michael Cory
Research & Development
Phone: 800-992-4993
Michael@Dynojet.com
www.Dynojet.com
www.Powercommander.com
www.Widebandcommander.com
Click to expand...

What is the "main air jet corrector" that the Dynojet rep mentions in the email?? Is it these things?

SANY0389.jpg


SANY0382.jpg


If so, does the small hole go towards the carb body when installed? How would I go about installing them using the glue? Why am I putting these in there? It would seem this would severely restrict the flow, unless that is the purpose.

What is this? If my thinking is correct, I'm thinking this is the tool used to install the "Main air jet corrector". Is this right?

SANY0391.jpg


Lastly, I have two drill bits supplied. The larger one is a 5/32 and the other is much smaller and unmarked. Going by the "1980-85 Suzuki GS700" Dynojet manual (the closest one that I could find that looks like it will work for my 650) I see that the 5/32 is used to drill the slide and to remove the mixture plugs if applicable, but I see nothing about the smaller one.

I really hope someone can help me with this! Thanks for your time!
 
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I'm soon to instal DJ kit on my 850.

The main air jet correctors do reduce the air flow, you are correct. You want that with pods as pods let MUCH MORE air in than the airbox so you want to reduce the air intake to compensate for it.

The small hole should face toward the carb body. Correspondingly, the "venturi" side opening faces the filters side. Yes that is the tool to tap the jets in. Glue you use so the jets don't fall out from vibrations. Make sure you don't get any glue on the jet hole! :eek: A tiny drop on the outer side of the jet should sufice or if the jets are a tight fit no glue should be necessary.
 
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5/32 is the pilot mixture screws plug drill (that you won't need as the plugs have been removed already)
so, the other drill is your slides hole drill (to enlarge the factory holes) - in my kit that's size 7/64, not sure for your kit
 
Now, when you say "jet" you're talking of the "air jet" that is in the Intake of the carb correct?

You also said the pilot jet, which as far as I know when using a Dynojet kit, you're arent supposed to touch at all.
 
Krunk_Kracker said:
Got the bike running tonight!! Rode it around the neighborhood...it felt soo good to ride it around the block, even though it was barely running and wouldn't go past 4K, lol. The carbs need a bench sync badly.
Click to expand...

your bike would run like this primarily due to the factory carb jetting not being suitable for the pods. the DJ kit would sort that out.
but by all means do the carb sync as well. :)
 
yes, you asked about the air jets so i am referring to the air jets as in your pics, i.e. the main air jets located on the right hand side of the main venturi opening on the air intake side of the carb body.
 
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pilot FUEL jets you do not touch, that's correct.

The bits that are plugged off from factory are called "pilot mixture screws"
 
Thank you psyguy!

:EDIT:

So, I put in the air jet restrictors with the small hole facing inward, and then I put the factory airjet in there as well, or do I run without it?
 
I just went through my dj instructions AGAIN and I was mistaken a bit - the air corrector jets are indeed the MAIN air jets, not the pilot air jets as I had thought. I corrected the posts above, please re-read them. My appologies for the confusion :o

Krunk_Kracker said:
So, I put in the air jet restrictors with the small hole facing inward, and then I put the factory airjet in there as well, or do I run without it?
Click to expand...

factory MAIN air jets are just an opening in the carb bodies (on the right hand side looking from the back of the carbs), there are NO brass jets in there.
 
Gotcha, thank you psyguy, you've been a huge help.

Just remembered I ordered literally everything else concerning the ignition and fuel systems, accept the petcock. Just ordered on it's on the way :D
 
one other thing I thought you won't know without having the dj instructions is that they call for the pilot mixture screws to be set at 4 1/2 turns out
 
Dynojet kit is installed, float height is adjusted, and carbs are bench synced. Heading over to where the bike is shortly for a test run. Can't wait!
 
Okay off subject a little bit but what part of Lakeland are you in? I am from Zolfo Springs originally. Was just curious.

Paul
 
Finally broke down and bought a damn digital caliper. I was trying to set the float height with a metric slide ruler and it wasn't working out.
 
It seems the digital caliper was the magic I needed. I cannot believe that float level makes that big of a difference after the bike get's warmed up. It went from not being able to run at all after it warms up to idling and revving perfectly.

http://youtu.be/kJC07xZ5WYY?hd=1

FINALLY got it running, so I can focus on other things with it now.

Also, this is with the slides being drilled to large. I think the hesitation coming down from rev is from the slides.
 
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