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1982 GS1100 GK Camshaft Specs & Piston's rings

  • Thread starter Thread starter the1pig
  • Start date Start date
T

the1pig

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I just tore down my 82 gs1100gk to replace the oil leaks.

I am looking for the Specs for the cam shaft on a 82 GS1100 GK. The Clymer book I have list for the gs850g, gs1000g. In the back it has a supplemental table for the 82 gs1100gk but it does not list the cam Shaft Specs.

Is there a trick to get the Pistons back into the cylinder. The book says to use a big clamp but it does not quite explain how.

Thanks for the help

Matt
 
You can use lg hose clamps if you don't have a ring compressor. Us it to compress the rings. Install the center two first. HAVE everthing covered with clean rags incase you drop something. It also helps to have an extra pair of hands. Also Put the bike in gear so the crank will not turn on you as easy (may need to block the rear wheel). Once the center two are in, then do the outer two. Remove the rags and slide the cyl home. Follow the manual as to ring placement
 
I've never had any luck at all with clamps or ring compressors. I just gently compress the rings with my fingers and feed them into the tapers at the bottom of the cylinders.

What cam specs are you worried about? Do the cam lobes look horribly worn or something?
 
Cant say I am worried about it. This is the first time I have ever broke an engine down this far. My OCD says follow the book and it said to check the cam shafts to see if they are not worn. the book listed specs for other bikes but not mine.

Looking at them they look fine.

Thanks for the info!!!
 
the1pig said:
Cant say I am worried about it. This is the first time I have ever broke an engine down this far. My OCD says follow the book and it said to check the cam shafts to see if they are not worn. the book listed specs for other bikes but not mine.

Looking at them they look fine.

Thanks for the info!!!
Click to expand...

As long as the lobes look good, no pitting, you can put the cams back in and be done with it. The 8V engine valve train is one of it's strong suites; the shim and bucket valve arrangement is extremely durable. The buckets eliminate sideways loads on the valve guides, unlike engines with rocker arms like the 16v engines, and the load bearing area for the cam lobe is wide so there is almost never any noticeable wear on the cams or shims. Only so called "issue" is that some people are lazy and don't adjust their valves.
 
Thanks for the info they look like they are in good shape and uniform I wont worry about them. Its nice to have something that was made to last and durable. Not like some of today's modern machines.
 
Nessism said:
As long as the lobes look good, no pitting, you can put the cams back in and be done with it. The 8V engine valve train is one of it's strong suites; the shim and bucket valve arrangement is extremely durable. The buckets eliminate sideways loads on the valve guides, unlike engines with rocker arms like the 16v engines, and the load bearing area for the cam lobe is wide so there is almost never any noticeable wear on the cams or shims. Only so called "issue" is that some people are lazy and don't adjust their valves.
Click to expand...

It is true that these valve trains are robust. The cam lobes do wear a slight tapper on their tips, due to the shafts whipping at high rpms. This appears more evident for the 750/850's with their cam chain idler design. A clean up grind can correct this with the advantage of gaining quicker opening and closing ramps from the stock cams.

The only 8 valve design weakness is their 2 bearing cam supports. The 16 valve engines have 4 bearings each and consequently don't flex. If you doubt the flex claim, check out the oval wear pattern inside each bearing on moderate to high mileage 8v engines. Cam flex also accelerates the wear on the end thrust surfaces of the head.
 
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