1982 GS1100gl project

[craz1]

Well after introducing myself I started to pull this 1100 apart. Im always amazed at what PO's do or not due to these poor bikes. The bike looks ok but there are a lot of small details that need addressing. Thats why I normally tear these old bike down completely and start from scratch. The wiring is a mess on this bike and will take some work. On my Z1's I would buy a new harness but nothing is available for this bike. Here is a nice spacer he came up with.

 

[craz1]

The engine has been removed and head and cylinder are off to be vapor honed then off to APE for head and cylinder work. Cases are next.

 

[craz1]

Thought I would try uploading better pictures. Built a engine stand and ready to split cases for vapor blasting. Waiting on a clutch basket holding tool.

 

[craz1]

Completed carbs tonight, new diaphragms, orings, Carbs were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner, bowls and tops polished.

 

[Nessism]

Those carbs look great! Thanks for the photo!

 

[craz1]

The cases have been cleaned and waiting for new seals. I was going to have them vapor blasted but my cleaning method comes very close to vapor blast. Time to save a few dollars on this project. Frame and parts should be coming back from the powder coaters this week.

 

[1978GS750E]

The cases have been cleaned and waiting for new seals. I was going to have them vapor blasted but my cleaning method comes very close to vapor blast. Time to save a few dollars on this project. Frame and parts should be coming back from the powder coaters this week.

Please share how you are doing this "cleaning"! That looks great!

 

[eil]

Looking great so far! Love these rebuild threads.

 

[craz1]

I developed my cleaning method due to the fact I hated working with glass beads in my blast cabinet. Its very dusty when even doing a small piece. You cant see in the cabinet and you need a good vac system which was always getting clogged. Also you went through a lot of blasting media because most of it got sucked up into the vac system. I started looking at different media and came across cut stainless steel wire. So I ordered 50lbs, 25lbs of cut wire and 25lbs of conditioned cut wire. The wire measures .014. The cut wire is just that, the condition wire is cut wire which has been conditioned to resemble a more rounded shape. First of all I clean the part of all oil and grease. I then block off all threaded holes and oil ports. The wire is 304 so it is slightly magnetic. I blast the cases with the std cut wire if the cases are pretty oxidized. Then I change media and blast it again with the conditioned wire which tends to peen the aluminum and gives it a satin finish. Then I clean the cases in hot water with a little dawn soap while gently rubbing the surface with 0000 steel wool. The end results are pretty good and almost as close as vapor blast. It takes a bit of time but $300-400 would be the cost for vapor blast ( cases, head, cylinders ). I run my cabinet pressure at only 50psi. I modified my good old Harbor Frt cabinet to use a bottom feed and a foot pedal to operate the gun. The modifications can be bought from Tacoma Company and there are some u-tube videos to watch about their conversion kits. I get my media from Pellets LLC. I warn you that the SS media is a bit expensive but 25lbs will last the hobbyist many years. Once you convert your cabinet you only need about 2 cups of the media in the bottom rather than 20lbs of beads or whatever you are using. Also the blasting process is very clean. You don't have the glass beads shattering and causing a mess. I have had the same 25 lbs for 8 years and only have used half of that. I have also cleaned the media using solvents and letting it dry to reuse again. I still get a little that escapes the cabinet so I just sweep it up and strain it and throw it back into the cabinet. Here is my friends Z1 I restored using this process.


Here are the cases

 

[Grimly]

Absolutely cracking job, I agree.
I wouldn't use glass beads after the horror stories I've heard about bead debris being embedded in the surfaces and then contaminating oil ways later on, resulting in the destruction of an engine.
I sincerely hope the stainless wire is not prone to that, but if it doesn't shatter it shouldn't be.

 

[craz1]

Yes the beads can shatter and embed in the aluminum. Once heated and expands it can be released into the engine. So if you do use dry glass blasting make sure your protect the insides. Only blast the exterior. No problem with the SS media however I still protect threads and passages. You still have to inspect everything to makes sure nothing is left behind

 

[craz1]

Got the powder coat back yesterday. Now the fun part. The majority of the cleaning has been done. Lots of replacement parts ordered. Off to the right is my XJ550 project and the right of that another Z1900. Going to be busy.

 

[craz1]

Started to assemble the bike after a lot of cleaning/polishing

I am waiting on some cushions for the new speedometer

Polished mounts

The starter was toast, this is what the armature looked like. The brushes were completely gone and only carbon dust remained. I found a NOS armature in Texas for $85 and already had the rebuild kit. A new Ricks starter was $230 or so

 

[craz1]

Also the Vin tag was totally faded and I tried to find another GS1100GL to copy but no luck. I came across a GS850GL which is pretty much the same bike other than the engine. I used that tag and just inserted the 1100 serial number and changed it to read GS1100GL. Tires are the same so I assumed the weight info is close or the same. So if anyone can supply me with the correct vin tag for the GS1100GL let me know

 

[Burque73]

Also the Vin tag was totally faded and I tried to find another GS1100GL to copy but no luck. I came across a GS850GL which is pretty much the same bike other than the engine. I used that tag and just inserted the 1100 serial number and changed it to read GS1100GL. Tires are the same so I assumed the weight info is close or the same. So if anyone can supply me with the correct vin tag for the GS1100GL let me know

That's pretty slick.

I think the 1100GL is actually a few pounds lighter than the 850, FWIW.

 

[Guest]

Also the Vin tag was totally faded and I tried to find another GS1100GL to copy but no luck. I came across a GS850GL which is pretty much the same bike other than the engine. I used that tag and just inserted the 1100 serial number and changed it to read GS1100GL. Tires are the same so I assumed the weight info is close or the same. So if anyone can supply me with the correct vin tag for the GS1100GL let me know

That's fantastic! Where did you track down that tag? Hadn't even considered being able to fix my peeled and faded tag.

 

[craz1]

I had it made by a guy on Ebay who does them. Again i'm not sure how accurate it is but has to be very close. I just wanted something there. He made another set and that is for sale on Ebay. Just search vin tag Gs1100GL and it should come up. You would have to supply him your vin number. Im not even sure if the original was white. Haven't come across another GL model with a good tag.

 

[GS1100GZ]

I'm in awe! Your work is stunning to me. I've been asking people online with stunning old bikes how they did it and get no replies. How did you get your carb tops so shiny? Was that from rubbing with 0000 steel wool? How do you polish your chrome? How do you polish the painted surfaces? Sorry for all the questions but I would like to clean up my GS. My GS looks good for a 40 year old bike but I would like to make it look better.

 

[craz1]

Thanks for the compliment Dale. Well I have been doing this for a long time and since retiring 6 years ago I spend quite a bit of time in the garage. As far as the polishing goes I do it all myself. Many years ago I used to buff using an old motor with wheels it works but if your doing a lot its wise to invest into a good system. As time went on I perfected things a bit. I built a small room in the corner of the shop(maybe 4ft x4ft) and use that as a buffing room. I had a filter system made which sits right behind the buffer and draws all the fine particles, filtering and returning the air back into the room above my head. Polishing is a dirty job and I don't want to contaminate the rest of the shop. Now days I use a Jet buffing motor with adjustable speeds. You can do a lot by hand with a good aluminum polish but its time consuming and hard. Here are the covers that I recently did for the GS1100


Here is one of my other bikes I completed last year.

 

[GS1100GZ]

I could tell from reading your posts that you have worked out all the little details. Seems like you have nailed down procedures, tools and sources. That took a lot of time and work.