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1982 GS650E Choke "Assembly" location?

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https://imgur.com/a/4RFtaFc (I can't the image directly without it being hugeee, it doesn't seem to scale it down?)

I picked up a "garage kept" GS650 that spent time in a barn and being molested by lazy previous owners trying to "slim" it down for a cafe racer look by yanking off and losing covers, screws, mirrors, and hacking off the rear fender mount and putting an unwired tail tidy on. I guess the choke pull button was one of the victims as well seeing as I have the cable but nothing for it to go on or into.

I'm guessing that chokes changed between the '81 and '82 years from my Clymer manual reading. I've seen some on YouTube that have the choke in the center of the steering "bearing" (?), where the handles turn inside the frame? On other youtube videos I see two cables going into the left cluster which would suggest the choke should be interacted with there. I don't know the terms and it's killing my ability to find parts and debug this myself. The picture is of my left handlebar where I think the missing knob/plunger/button should go.

What should I be searching for on amazon/ebay to find this part? Is there a "generic" part I can get and zip tie onto the bars? This is my first attempt to fix a vehicle up and I'm trying to focus on economy and experience over ritualistic restoration of a bike that's been sawed and knocked over in a barn by a tractor.
 
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The ebay one that Tom203 linked does NOT have the horn button. L model must have the horn button somewhere else, or maybe L riders just need to yell "beep,beep" really loudly.:p Actually on closer look, it's just a different kind of horn button.

yeah, you're missing the thump do-hickey on the bottom of the left control.

v4pWObOh.jpg


I believe a lot of the 82s shared the same control, if you're looking for a replacement. Check the parts fiches on a site like partshark.com or others. You need one that looks like this.

qJ9GYfAh.jpg


Edit: Actually, it looks like you can buy just the parts you're missing for $19.44 + shipping.
parts 17,18,19,20
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3fd5cf8700230d8b4da18/left-handle-switch-model-z
 
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Thanks Rich! I just ordered those parts. I wasn't even close to finding anything that looks like what I needed. If I buy another "rescue" I'm going to have to learn to really use those sites with the exploded diagrams.
 
That should work. It should be pretty evident how the end of the choke cable threads into to replacement parts. I’ve had mine apart to change out the old cable for a new one, and didn’t have any trouble getting it back together. Now, it is possible, of course, that the threads in the bottom of the housing are stripped. I hope not.
 
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If they had left the dang choke down on the carbs, where they worked perfect for yrs. & yrs., you wouldn't be buying parts nor replacing choke cables... Just my opinion. Glad you got it figured out.
 
If they had left the control on the carbs, you would need a friend to help you start the bike, at times. I have seen some mention about holding the clutch lever with the left hand, manipulating the "choke" knob in the center of the steering stem with the right hand and using the right elbow to push the starter button. Imagine that dance with the "choke" lever on the carbs.

Of course, a properly-set-up bike will hold the "choke" without manipulation and the clutch will not need to be pulled, leaving just the need for one thumb on the starter button. :encouragement:
 
Yep, the one with the cable in the steering stem that was spring loaded so it wouldn't stay where you put it unless the lock was adjusted regularly. The levers, or knobs, on the carbs never had to be properly-set-up nor adjusted they just worked properly all the time. That's why they should have never changed it. Would have made the clutch switch not a problem.
 
The previous owner was pulling the bar that the choke cable actuates from the left side of the bike. He said it was a "old style slide choke". I'm new but I just assumed I'd be buying some parts after seeing his procedure to start the bike up haha.

Only paid $750 for a runner with a good in state title on it with a bucket of parts and a Clymer manual.
 
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