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1982 GS850G Brake Lines

  • Thread starter Thread starter samson
  • Start date Start date
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samson

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I am close to having my '82 GS850G restored, after many headaches, much money and even more effort. I want to replace the stock, factory, rubber brake lines with stainless lines. I have decided to go to a 2-line system on the front, and replace the rear with SS. I have been searching around the Web, but it's difficult to find specific info. Does anyone have experience in performing this operation? If so, I will take any advice you have to offer, i.e. mistakes that can be made, things that can be missed. I know it isn't brain surgery, but every simple thing comes with many pitfalls, or so it seems. I have looked at Spiegler and Galfer lines, any recommendations?

Thanks,
Samson
 
Welcome Sampson.
I just did mine using that same thread as a guide. See page 7 of that thread. Ensure you trim back the ss braids before installing the fittings so the frayed ends of your cut doesn't interfere with the fitting connections.

Easy as can be, to make your own. Check around your area (where is your area?) for shops that may carry Earl's products. You could buy the parts you need firsthand instead of ordering online.

Good Luck:)
 
Hi Mr. samson,

Another option: I ordered Goodridge lines and connectors. BikeBandit (and others) sells them. Just buy them in the lengths you need and bolt them on. CLICK HERE.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thaks guys. Man, that was fast, and I did read the previous thread with the Earl's video. I had someone tell me that the compression fittings on self-made lines were prone to weepage. But I figure of they are done properly they will be just fine. Does anyone know, are the banjo fittings 10mm? I believe so, but I would like to verify this. Also I am not sure of the diameter tubing I will need. It seems that one can save some $$ by making one's own lines. If you have any advice or knowledge of possible problems, I would definitely benifit from your mistakes!! Again, thank you. :)
 
Yes, the fittings are 10mm.

You don't need to buy more banjo bolts -- you'll have all you need when you take apart the three way fitting under the bottom triple clamp.

You can also remove your stock lines and have a shop make you a set. Ask around at local motorcycle shoppes. They can make them a few inches shorter if you've changed the handlebars to something more humane.
 
Greetings and Salutations!

Greetings and Salutations!

samson said:
BTW Basscliff, that is one beautiful 850 you have there. 1980?
Click to expand...

Hi Mr. samson,

Thank you. Yes, it's a 1980. It's got a new seat cover now, but pretty much all original. There are more pictures on my website.

I didn't realize that you were such a new member. Let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

I guess Brian was too modest to tell you about his brake line information. From Mr. bwringer's website:

Build Your Own Steel Braid Brake Lines

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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I must say, while I am technically a new member, I got my '82 GS850G Sept. of 2008, and have been coming to GSRESOURCES since then. I started my restoration in 9/08, but didn't have heat in my garage, so it was on hold for a while. Eventually I bought a heater, but of course by then it started to warm up. Anyway, the devil's in the details. Anyone can take something apart, but when you start to put it back together, and expect it to work, you inevitably come up with questions - questions better answered by those who have done it before. I am sure I will have more, but so far, I thank you for your help and willingness to give out info that you came by only after your knuckles were bleeding! Thanks!!
Samson
 
I went with a goodridge set, crossover on the front. Probably not the cheapest way but easy to install, and I can easily change a line out without opening a compression fitting up. The performance is so good you have to learn how to control it again.
 
duaneage said:
I went with a goodridge set, crossover on the front. Probably not the cheapest way but easy to install, and I can easily change a line out without opening a compression fitting up. The performance is so good you have to learn how to control it again.
Click to expand...

You don't have to open a compression fitting to remove an Earl's line, just loosen the banjo bolt and take the line off.
 
SS Brake lines

SS Brake lines

Hello Samson, You can see by my posts I am a newbie to the board as well.
I just ordered SS lines from Z1 Enterpises. About $20 each 18 inch line plus the banjo bolt,another 9$ each.
You may want to check this out in addition to all the other excellent suggestions.They carry all different lengths.
Good riding.
Rover
 
I got my stainless lines for my gs850 from Z1 Enterprises. I compared the cost of making my own to the cost of buying them complete. There wasn't much difference and for the peace of mind of safety I stuck with prefabbed ones. Z1 Enterprises were great returning emails and super fast delivery, Ted
 
knotzilla said:
I got my stainless lines for my gs850 from Z1 Enterprises. I compared the cost of making my own to the cost of buying them complete. There wasn't much difference and for the peace of mind of safety I stuck with prefabbed ones. Z1 Enterprises were great returning emails and super fast delivery, Ted
Click to expand...

I think the Goodrich lines are fine but technically they are more prone to leakage than the Earl’s lines. The Goodrich lines have two fluid joints per hose end (four per line assembly): a crimped-on hose end, and a bolt-on banjo with flare fitting. The Earl’s lines only have one fluid joint (two per line assembly) – at the bolt-on hose ends. I wouldn’t be overly concerned but just saying… The Earl's lines are cheap and reliable.
 
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Nessism said:
I think the Goodrich lines are fine but technically they are more prone to leakage than the Earl?s lines. The Goodrich lines have two fluid joints per hose end (four per line assembly): a crimped-on hose end, and a bolt-on banjo with flare fitting. The Earl?s lines only have one fluid joint (two per line assembly) ? at the bolt-on hose ends. I wouldn?t be overly concerned but just saying? The Earl's lines are cheap and reliable.
Click to expand...
This is news to those of us who use Goodridge lines.

I don't know anyone who ever had a properly installed goodridge line leak. I know quite a few users, some who race with their brake lines up in the Poconos and they swear by them. I don't think it is fair to claim they are leak prone. Maybe some people don't know how to clean off the ends and tighten them properly.

You should also replace the copper washers everytime the banjos come off. They are force fitted and torqued to 18 ft/lbs. The copper is soft and deforms to form a safe seal.
 
duaneage said:
This is news to those of us who use Goodridge lines.

I don't know anyone who ever had a properly installed goodridge line leak. I know quite a few users, some who race with their brake lines up in the Poconos and they swear by them. I don't think it is fair to claim they are leak prone. Maybe some people don't know how to clean off the ends and tighten them properly.

You should also replace the copper washers everytime the banjos come off. They are force fitted and torqued to 18 ft/lbs. The copper is soft and deforms to form a safe seal.
Click to expand...


First of all Duane, I never claimed that Goodrich lines are “leak prone”, please go back and read my post again.

There are two type of Goodrich lines: those with a banjo hose-end (like Earl's), and those with a threaded hose-end (like Z1 sells). The lines with a threaded hose-end require an extra piece to be installed, thus there is a second possible leak path. Take note: this is a “possible” leak path, not a certain leak path.

Racers typically use lines with the least number of possible joints to eliminate possible leaks.

I don’t think there is undue risk with using the bolt on hose end type Goodrich lines like Z1 sells, but saying they are less prone to leakage than the Earl's lines, like some people are alluding to in this thread, is wrong. It's also wrong to suggest that it's necessary to crack open the compression fittings to remove an Earl's line from a bike.

Lastly, I agree with you that the banjo washers should be changed each time the line is removed (although I don't always do this). The washers themselves are typically aluminum, although sometimes they are bright plated copper.
 
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knotzilla said:
I got my stainless lines for my gs850 from Z1 Enterprises. I compared the cost of making my own to the cost of buying them complete. There wasn't much difference and for the peace of mind of safety I stuck with prefabbed ones. Z1 Enterprises were great returning emails and super fast delivery, Ted
Click to expand...
Sweet bike. Did you go with a two line system? Crossover or full length. What lenghts did you go with?

Thanks,

Samson
 
knotzilla said:
I got my stainless lines for my gs850 from Z1 Enterprises.
Click to expand...

Awesome, I'm hoping to order some asap but the plethora of connections and angles is baffling :confused: What did you pick up? I'm assuming my 650 and your 850 would only differ in line length...

thanks
 
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