1982 GS850G - Compufire R/R and Caltric Stator install

[growler]

Will be documenting my install here.

Besides some minor electrical repair with basic soldering and shrink wrap skills, I have no experience doing this.

I picked up a Caltric stator for $37/free shipping. Including some photos if anyone is curious.

I will be installing this Compufire R/R:

Should I find a mating connector for the Compufire so that my stator connects to it using their fancy connector? Cut the connector off and wire directly to stator?

 

[growler]

Just found this post.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...Fire-SERIES-R-R-Install&p=1915267#post1915267

I think I will order the 3 completed wires:
https://www.napaonline.com/p/NW_725436


Anyone know the part number for that black 3 wire connector? (upper right)

 

[tom203]

I'm surprised, very crude winding job- appears hand wound. The machine wound units are much cleaner/ tighter. And I don't like the nylon cable ties. But it should work fine, cuz it doesn't need to be pretty

 

[Blue Falcon]

I just decided to say FTW and do an Electrosport Stator with my SH847AA R/R. Made all the difference in the world in every area of my 850GL. Cost - 847 with harness $200, Stator $80, peace of mind PRICELESS!!!

 

[Gorminrider]

I'm surprised, very crude winding job- appears hand wound. The machine wound units are much cleaner/ tighter. And I don't like the nylon cable ties. But it should work fine, cuz it doesn't need to be pretty

yes, that's pretty bad. I dare say it's much worse than I do! and I'd be gluing the worst ones down but ....

 

[growler]

I want to order this connector to wire directly to the stator wires.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Weather-Pack-Assembled-Pigtails/p_810525.h_810529

The male connectors come in two choices of wire - which should I get?

[h=2]"10" of 18 gauge black SXL wire, or 14 gauge white GXL wire."[/h]

 

[Guest]

The Compu-Fire has #10 wire. 18 gauge wire would be fine for the stator as long as the pins for the two different Weather Pack connectors are compatible. I cut mine off and removed some of the strands from the 10 gauge wire so I could fit single weatherproof Furukawa connectors.

 

[growler]

Hmmm. I'm happy to use a different connection such as you did. Especially since the gauge of wire is different and I don't want to mess around with the Weather Pack compatibility. Where did you pick up the single Furukawas? Cycle Terminal?

I think I need some help selecting which connectors and which pins to order. :nevreness:

http://www.cycleterminal.com/furukawa-rfw-090.html

 

[growler]

I was just thinking.....which is dangerous to begin with.

The connector I found above is pigtailed....so the pins wouldn't matter. The connector would plug into the connector on the Compufire, then I would just solder/heat shrink the 3 stator wires to the 3 pigtail wires, right?

The Compu-Fire has #10 wire. 18 gauge wire would be fine for the stator as long as the pins for the two different Weather Pack connectors are compatible. I cut mine off and removed some of the strands from the 10 gauge wire so I could fit single weatherproof Furukawa connectors.

 

[Steve]

Yep, that should work. :encouragement:

.

 

[growler]

When connecting the 3 pigtail wires to the stator wires is it ok to just solder and heat shrink?

On the site that I am ordering the male shroud with pigtails from, they say:
"These pigtails are easily spliced into existing wiring systems with adhesive-lined, heat shrink butt connectors."

Shown here:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Shrink-Butt-Connectors/p_805403

Do I need a special connector or just solder and heat shrink?

 

[posplayr]

Twist , solder , heat shrink. Leave excess to be able to redo at some time down the line. Since journal have a cpmpufire most unlikely

 

[Gs1000g]

I got the GM connectors at O Reilly's to connect to the compu-fire on my Gs1000g cost about $10. I then did what posplayr said twist solder and put heat shrink over the metal parts and then put them in the plastic connector and it snaps together quite easy for removal
see page 3
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...my-Battery-and-maybe-is-it-not-charging/page3

 

[growler]

Awesome, thanks for the tip. Already ordered the connector, but good to know for the future.

Hoping to tackle this over the weekend. Been busy and seeing my bike just sitting there makes me sad.

 

[850 Combat]

I've seen too many overheated connectors to want more of them than I need as a minimum. I did have a starter clutch go out, and did have to cut and re-do a little. Overall, it wasn't a big part of the overall job of changing the starter clutch. It was incidental.

What type of regulator is the Comp-u-fire? I didn't find it in their literature.

 

[growler]

Here is some in depth info on it from the one and only posplayr.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?161397-Compu-Fire-SERIES-R-R-Install

I've seen too many overheated connectors to want more of them than I need as a minimum. I did have a starter clutch go out, and did have to cut and re-do a little. Overall, it wasn't a big part of the overall job of changing the starter clutch. It was incidental.

What type of regulator is the Comp-u-fire? I didn't find it in their literature.

 

[growler]

Another rookie question about the positive and negative connections from the r/r.

The positive goes to the battery positive and the negative gets shortened and grounded as close to the r/r as possible?

Do I need to add a fuse?

 

[posplayr]

Just found this post.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...Fire-SERIES-R-R-Install&p=1915267#post1915267

I think I will order the 3 completed wires:
https://www.napaonline.com/p/NW_725436


Anyone know the part number for that black 3 wire connector? (upper right)

I would suggest that those crimps that go inside the connector case shoudl have a little solder flowed into them. I left a set bare and they oxidizes and cause the insulation on the wire to distort from overheating.

 

[Steve]

Another rookie question about the positive and negative connections from the r/r.

The positive goes to the battery positive and the negative gets shortened and grounded as close to the r/r as possible?

Do I need to add a fuse?

Ideally, the positive output from the R/R should go to the red wire near the fusebox that the original R/R connected to. Unless you do a bit of modification and re-wiring of the entire system, that is the best way. There is a fuse already installed, if you do it that way, so no need for another one.

The R/R ground wire should go to your "SPG" or Single Point Ground, where everything comes together. The SPG (another one of posplayr's recommendations) ensures the best circuit for charging currents. Make it someplace other than the negative terminal on the battery, but be sure there is a wire that goes from there to the battery. On my bikes, I have only three wires connected to the battery: one on the positive terminal that goes to the starter solenoid (other power take-offs go from the solenoid terminal) and two on the negative terminal. One is the large one from the back of the engine (it grounds the starter) and a smaller one (10- or 12-gauge wire) to the SPG.

No real need to "shorten the wire" unless it's really long. A few inches here or there don't matter nearly as much as having extra connectors in-line.

.

 

[growler]

Right now the black wire from the old r/r is grounded (poorly) here. Could I use this same spot if I cleaned it up and sanded the corrosion off? Or do you suggest another place? (you are looking at the bottom of the battery box, shifter side of bike)