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1982 Suzuki GS1100G Restoration (No Budget Resto)

GalDemSuga

Forum Apprentice
Past Site Supporter
Hey Folks.

I'm Marvin and this is my "Beauty". I am in the process of restoring her and keeping her as original as possible.

Backstory:

I got her used and in non-running condition. She has issues with the engine (bent exhaust valves) and with the electrical (TPO said she didn't charge the battery) as well as a hacked up wire harness. So far I have sorted the harness and upgraded the R/R to an old Honda setup (shout out to forum member Duaneage). I have also gotten advice on a newer R/R setup (shout out to forum member Steve).

I am working on the engine issues now and on cleaning up the entire bike. There are some minor dents on the tank as well as chipped paint and clearcoat. The carbs need cleaning and the tank needs rust removed.

Update 1 - https://youtu.be/D3BaJYiyaPg

Update 2 - https://youtu.be/dIiu0jwKtCY

Update 3 - https://youtu.be/7VqytKK4ep4

Update 4 - https://youtu.be/S2Pfa2WMNsw

Update 5 - https://youtu.be/F-0wcvyFeCU

Update 6 - https://youtu.be/iln-nEpgX4Y

Update 7 - https://youtu.be/qGv9fjZKrHs
 

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Well Folks

It runs finally. After setbacks with the cylinder head issues; bent valves and broken valve guides. It is now assembled and it starts but only with a full choke and stays running after it warms up with no choke. Any attempt of give it throttle causes it to shut down. The tach cable is broken so I can't attempt to set up the carbs. I should have a new cable by Friday. I was able to confirm that the charging system works. While I am unable to see the engine RPMs, I could see the voltage via a multi-meter, its 12.8 Volts while running and 13.5 volts and rising as the idle speed goes up when I give her full choke.

Update 8 - https://youtu.be/DY2cy5KaB_A
 
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Congrats!

It would seem like you may have big air leaks somewhere if the carbs are clean & setup properly and you're running an airbox. Air leaks could be on the intake boot side (o rings?) or potentially on the airbox side (boots / box sealing).

Assume the vac port on the carbs is plugged if running on AUX tank?
 
Congrats!

It would seem like you may have big air leaks somewhere if the carbs are clean & setup properly and you're running an airbox. Air leaks could be on the intake boot side (o rings?) or potentially on the airbox side (boots / box sealing).

Assume the vac port on the carbs is plugged if running on AUX tank?

Yes, that is correct on the carb port being plugged as i am using the Aux tank. The intake boots have all new o-rings so I suspect its likely the airbox. the carb was cleaned and sealed up and has no fuel leaks. I did change airbox based filter to a K&N filter inside but the boots on there are old and hard. I will revisit them tonight as its just too hot to get anything done during the day in TX.
 
I'm going to give it the same treatment as I did on my 89 K5Blazer and hit the carbs/throttle body with some break cleaner as it runs to find any vacuum leaks. I initially set each air screw @ 1.5 turns out from close but she didn't start even with full choke. I then moved to 2 turns out but she would sputter and not start before I set it to 2.5 turns out. 2.5 turns out allowed me to start at full choke and once warmed up I could shut the choke off completely.
 
a quick note on your carb video - those tees are not vacuum. they are vents for the float bowls to allow air in/out while the float goes up and down with fuel demand. So, they have zero effect on your carb issues.
Hopefully, you have the vacuum line connected to the vacuum port on the engine side of #2 carb, or you capped that port
 
a quick note on your carb video - those tees are not vacuum. they are vents for the float bowls to allow air in/out while the float goes up and down with fuel demand. So, they have zero effect on your carb issues.
Hopefully, you have the vacuum line connected to the vacuum port on the engine side of #2 carb, or you capped that port

I was using a Aux Tank so I plugged the vacuum port on number #2 Carb. I am hoping to test the bike by Friday. I will post an update if I am able to get it sorted. The vent tees have new o-rings and feel much more snug. It's valuable info about their operation that you and a few others have provided. Thanks again to all you Guys.
 
Great job.
About the wiring for your lights/signals
Why are both front turn signals on solid? That's not right.
 
Great job.
About the wiring for your lights/signals
Why are both front turn signals on solid? That's not right.

This bike has dual filament front turn signals (running lights) and I am looking for a pair to put out back. The back signals wasn't wired like the front from factory but I have since added that option and I just need the add two front turn signals in the back.
 
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