• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

1982 Suzuki GS450TXZ - Shelby Edition =)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
EDIT: My bike is a 1981, not a 1982... (can't edit the title of this post)

Hey Gang,
This first post will serve as an "index" of my bike "update" progress. Mostly, I plan to post time-lapse videos of repairs or alterations made while working on the bike. If I encounter trouble, problems, or unique situations I will try my best to explain or display with pictures what I did to resolve the issue.

OH! And SHELBY is just my last name so don't expect a performance "GS450-GT" :)


LINK-> Rust removal from spoke wheels.

LINK -> Carburetor rebuild

LINK-> Intake boots & carbs install

LINK-> EMGO Shorty Muffler Repacking

LINK-> Shorten & paint blinkers

LINK -> Seat Fiberglass fail =\
 

Attachments

  • 20190505_152533.jpg
    20190505_152533.jpg
    97.5 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Darnit, my phone doesn't open some attachments for some reason, looking forward to seeing it!
 
I am to assume you not only removed that pound of rust from the tank but that a proper tank liner was installed? By 100% carb rebuild , did you follow the rebuild tutorial on Bikecliffs website? New Cycleorings oring kit?? Fill n the blanks please. And be sure to post any "weird" symptoms you come across, how you diagnosed to pinpoint the issue, and what remedy you used to fix them.

OHHH.... and welcome to the lit side of the forum...LOL
 
Time-lapse of Carburetor rebuild

Time-lapse of Carburetor rebuild

 
Time-lapse of Intake Boots & Carburetors install

Time-lapse of Intake Boots & Carburetors install

 
EMGO Shorty Mufflers: Repacking

EMGO Shorty Mufflers: Repacking

I think I might go back and double up the thickness of the ceramic fiber filler.
After repacking, the audible pitch of the mufflers went to a lower rumble, but was still as loud as before =\


EDIT: I did double up the packing material, and it now has a very 'dry' tone. no decrease in sound volume though.
 
Last edited:
Shorten & paint blinkers time-lapse

Shorten & paint blinkers time-lapse

This is just a time-lapse of how i shortened and painted my blinkers (directional lights).
 
Last edited:
Yo.
So i am replacing all of my lighting with LEDs.
Straight forward so far after ordering a cheap LED flasher for the blinkers. I am removing the brake light to clean up the rear of the bike... and the PO left me a wonderful adventure in wiring!
20190717_192034.jpg
 
Shelby said:
Yo.
So i am replacing all of my lighting with LEDs.
Straight forward so far after ordering a cheap LED flasher for the blinkers. I am removing the brake light to clean up the rear of the bike... and the PO left me a wonderful adventure in wiring!
View attachment 58500
Click to expand...

Better fit a series regulator, in that case.
 
Grimly said:
Better fit a series regulator, in that case.
Click to expand...

Can you link me a better rectifier? I got the directional LEDs wired up and they are BRIGHT! Strange though, while the bike is off, the left blinker makes the LED headlight flicker slightly. The right blinker doesn't effect the headlight. While the bike is anything above idle, the headlight is rock solid with either blinker. (It's only a 30w LED i believe.)
LOVING the LED headlight and blinkers. Tomorrow I'll tackle that tail light :(
 
@Grimly Crap. I didn't know there would be a charging system heat issue with these new LEDs.
Those SH-775 (Polaris) or the Compu-Fire 3 Phase regulators are expensive =(
I've spent WELL over my budget this season just getting my bike road-worthy. I certainly don't want to nuke my stator though.
Is there any other way around this potential heat issue? Resistors? Add more lights to even out the load... i don't know. =\
 
Last edited:
The cheapest and simplest way is to restore the tungsten filament headlight for now. Leave the LED headlight until you get a series reg/rec.
Another way is keep what you've got and put an auxiliary full-time running lamp on the front, but it (in combination with the LED) must be up at 55W or so. Assuming the LED is 25 to 30W, you can get away with a 30W tungsten lamp. They are to be found cheaply enough in any car breaking yard, just look for fog and/or spotlamps.
The normal fog/spot light bulb is 55W, but you can get lower power versions of those. Just make sure that aux light is on all the time, along with the headlamp.
 
Thank you very much Grimly!
Excellent suggestions.
I'll be sure to post my final solution in the next few days.
Below is a pic of my new LED headlight bulb.
20190719_211956.jpg
 
Last edited:
Time-lapse of seat fiberglass work

Time-lapse of seat fiberglass work


WARNING!!! REALLY LONG VIDEO!!!


 
Grimly said:
Another way is keep what you've got and put an auxiliary full-time running lamp on the front, but it (in combination with the LED) must be up at 55W or so. Assuming the LED is 25 to 30W, you can get away with a 30W tungsten lamp. ... Just make sure that aux light is on all the time, along with the headlamp.
Click to expand...

I am just now getting back to wiring the lights on my bike. I've been working on the paint and seat off an on through the summer. I already replaced most of the lighting with LED's as mentioned before. I didn't touch the gauge cluster lights yet, but i plan to. I figure those are very low wattage lights anyway.

GET TO THE POINT SHELBY!

Okay, as far as running (always on) lights go, I have the front headlight that draws between 27-30 watts. I also have rear brake lights that draw 3 watts. I am not counting signal lights. I will be adding in an auxiliary light to use up the remaining power generated by the stator.

My questions are:
  • How much power is generated by the stator (i assume it varies at different RPMs. i just need an average number. is it about 60 watts?).
  • Where, in the circuit, can i add the 30-ish watt auxiliary light? I would like to add it somewhere easily removable as i plan to install a proper series R/R next year.

I would like to add the aux light somewhere in the rear if possible. I will build a little enclosure (with a fan) to conceal the aux light as it will look nutty compared to the crisp LEDs.

Any tips?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top