1983 GS1100E Cheap easy mods thread

[mriddle]

Thanks Ray .. yea I have a gauge set with an electronic tach that I could run while in this mode .. and I will keep my current gauges under my pillow.

You guys all need to remember that the 1150 exhaust cam does NOT have a tach drive gear on it & you will lose your 1100 cable drive tach with an 1150 exhaust cam. Same goes for an 1150 head on an 1100 as the 1150 valve cover has no provision for a tach drive on it. Ray.

 

[mriddle]

Yea bought the carbs on ebay .. I've been told the airbox comes off, so I was prepared for K&N pods and a stage 3.

The pipe is a not so old Yosh .. here is a bad pic of it. .. I also have a similar (black pipe small canister) Vance and Hines to try.

Did you already buy the carbs? Those will bolt on but I'm not sure about the airbox. I jetted a set for Posplayr on his 83 with .340 Web Cams and it runs great. You'll need to get a Dynojet stage 3 kit and I'll help you set it up with the pods. You'll like the power difference. Is the slip on a 4-1 or a dual with more air flow.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Just my suggestion, but before you do anything, at all, i would suggest replacing the oil pump gears with those from an 80-82 TSCC 750 motor, or get a set of high volume gears from APE or whoever sells em. (someone does) If I were modding EITHER of my 1100s, or even NOT modding them (one will be heavily, one will be near stock when im done) this is a must do. Especially if you plan on hopping it up with cams, carbs and other goodies.

As to you ORIGINAL question on the carbs, like I said before, ALONE, and in stock configuration, I wouldnt think there is much advantage to it, and im not even sure it will fit airbox side. If you want drop in, instant performance, seat of the pants upgrade, but nothing massive nor $$$$, find a set of 1150 cams, and drop em in. Pods and pipe are in your future with those carbs, so you might ask someone who's done this for a ballpark on a jetting set up, as the cams, carb throat size and pods and pipe combo are not going to be "DynoJet" friendly, its likely going to need some hand fiddling with un-DJ mismatched sizes. I do believe i recall someone saying the center two carbs on the 1150 actually had smaller jets in them, but dunno for certain.

 

[blowerbike]

joshhhhh.
the factory pump gears to use is the 8v. 750 77-79.
the 80-82 750 16v. will work i guess..just the gear behind the basket is thinner at the out most part near the teeth(stepped down)..but..
8 and 16v. pump gears of those years and models share the same ratio.
the reason the diff ratio gears was used on the old 8 valvers was because they had a differant primary ratio and suzuki needed to spin the pump faster.

one more thing...
if the truth was known,
i think theres a good chance that alot of the aftermarket hi-vol pump gears sold are factory 8v. 750 gears from suzuki....just re-packaged

and if using 1150 carbs/cams ect...
most ive found was just to use the largest main jet supplyed in the jet kit.
if mid is lacking go down(lower) 1-2 on the needle which will richen it up.
these jet kits are for 80-83 1100E and all 1150's(same kit)(dyn0jet)

 

[TheCafeKid]

joshhhhh.
the factory pump gears to use is the 8v. 750 77-79.
the 80-82 750 16v. will work i guess..just the gear behind the basket is thinner at the out most part near the teeth(stepped down)..but..
8 and 16v. pump gears of those years and models share the same ratio.
the reason the diff ratio gears was used on the old 8 valvers was because they had a differant primary ratio and suzuki needed to spin the pump faster.

one more thing...
if the truth was known,
i think theres a good chance that alot of the aftermarket hi-vol pump gears sold are factory 8v. 750 gears from suzuki....just re-packaged

and if using 1150 carbs/cams ect...
most ive found was just to use the largest main jet supplyed in the jet kit.
if mid is lacking go down(lower) 1-2 on the needle which will richen it up.
these jet kits are for 80-83 1100E and all 1150's(same kit)(dyn0jet)

Terrrryyyy The 8v 750 was a LOW PRESSURE, HIGH VOLUME motor. Putting those gears in would do absolutely nothing AFAIK, and I have read to the contrary. From what I have read and been told from those who know better than I, the 16v 750 HIGH PRESSURE pump gears are what are to be used.

Someone confirm/deny our lil disagreement?

 

[blowerbike]

Terrrryyyy The 8v 750 was a LOW PRESSURE, HIGH VOLUME motor. Putting those gears in would do absolutely nothing AFAIK, and I have read to the contrary. From what I have read and been told from those who know better than I, the 16v 750 HIGH PRESSURE pump gears are what are to be used.

Someone confirm/deny our lil disagreement?

nope...
check it out..
im sure on this for the past 20 years.
same ratio as the 750 insert bearing engine gears.
go pull a set of 8 valvers and compare to the 16v. 750 gears

 

[blowerbike]

nope...
check it out..
im sure on this for the past 20 years.
same ratio as the 750 insert bearing engine gears.
go pull a set of 8 valvers and compare to the 16v. 750 gears

i used to buy all the 750 8 valver engines i could find cheap.
the reason being....
i robbed the straight cut crank and basket gears and the oil pump gears..
plus any misc. hardware i chose to keep.
i used to buy those complete engines for 20-50 bucks

 

[Guest]

Terrrryyyy The 8v 750 was a LOW PRESSURE, HIGH VOLUME motor. Putting those gears in would do absolutely nothing AFAIK, and I have read to the contrary. From what I have read and been told from those who know better than I, the 16v 750 HIGH PRESSURE pump gears are what are to be used.

Someone confirm/deny our lil disagreement?

nope...
check it out..
im sure on this for the past 20 years.
same ratio as the 750 insert bearing engine gears.
go pull a set of 8 valvers and compare to the 16v. 750 gears

The 8 valve 750's share the same gears with the high pressure 16 valve 750's up to 1982. driven gear is part number 16331-45000, number of teeth: 29. The drive gear is part number 16321-45002, number of teeth: 38. They also share the same oil pump. The difference is in the oil passages and how the crankcase is made. The 8 valve allows for lower pressure but higher volume. The 16 valve allows for higher pressure to better lubricate the top end and plain crank.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Well i can honestly say i didnt know that they shared the same pump drive gears. And, as such, we're both right

 

[blowerbike]

the pump gears are the same, basket gears made a little differant...
they both do the same job/same ratio but...
from years ago it was common knowlage to use the 8v. 750 pump gears.
im am not old or young...middle aged i guess.

 

[mriddle]

Update ..

I have purchased (since this thread was started)

- oil pump from a 1979 GS750

- 1984 GS1150 cams


Josh .. you up for some tinkering this summer ?

 

[rapidray]

Oil pumps are all the same, it is the pump GEARS you want to change. Ray.

 

[mriddle]

Yep .. this just came that way :lol:

Oil pumps are all the same, it is the pump GEARS you want to change. Ray.

 

[ThAzKat]

degree the intake cam and you can get a little more out of it also! even the 1150 cam. Generally, change the main jets, with pods and 4into1 go up 2, so if the jet is a 110 go to 115. a/f adjust and you can toy with the floats a bit for lean to rich adjustment.

 

[mriddle]

OK thanks .

Now.. how does one go about degreeing a cam ?

 

[Guest]

First you need to get some slotted cam sprockets. Try APE for these.

 

[limeex2]

oil pump gears

oil pump gears

use 16v oil pump gears on 16v gs1100.I used them when I roadraced a gs1100.It doubles oil pump volume.never had top end problems again,even when VERY low on oil while endurance racing.

 

[mriddle]

Aren't the stock ones 16v ?

use 16v oil pump gears on 16v gs1100.I used them when I roadraced a gs1100.It doubles oil pump volume.never had top end problems again,even when VERY low on oil while endurance racing.

 

[mriddle]

can the stock ones be milled out at a machine shop or is there another advantage to the APE ones ?

First you need to get some slotted cam sprockets. Try APE for these.

 

[tkent02]

Open up the tiny vent in the side of the fuel filler neck, lets the tank be topped off completely in a few seconds, rather than a few minutes...Note to newbs, don't top it off unless you are going to hop on and ride several miles immediately.