1983 GS1100ED 49K miles Topend Rebuild

[posplayr]

Not saying I need one but after seeing Sunburn's thread on the #10 head bolt oil ring it is just another reason to go for it.

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/gs750/jims_1983_gs1100E.jpg

Mine runs very strong but with the mileage, rattle at warm idle (chain or piston slap???) and now this o ring. I'm more considering the top end job (I'm not diving in there for some stinking o ring) I'm now even more so considering a top end rebuild on my engine (49K high way miles????).

As said, runs very strong and I'm doing a compression this weekend but it is supposed to be very even within 10 psi at 150 (quote from PO). The engine does rattle a little at idle after it warms up.

OK so a top end job would mean:

Pull the head
Grind valves and seats
Replace head gaskets and all O rings not in the gasket set.
R&R Rings
R&R pistons (if needed)
Bore and Hone cylinders to match new pistons.
Cam Chain??? Can this be swapped out without cracking the case?
Check for any other innoordinate wear of course
No cam bearings???
Screw adjustments on the valves so no tapet spacers???

I'm sure she will run stong as she is but for a few hundered she will be measurebly more stable.
Any advice appreciated.

Posplayr

 

[salty_monk]

The 8V engines go for ever... not sure about the 16v. Mine is approaching 80k miles now.

 

[Steve]

All looks OK except for the cam chain. You DO have to split the cases to replace it.


.

 

[Nessism]

All looks OK except for the cam chain. You DO have to split the cases to replace it.


.

...unless you buy a chain rivet tool.

 

[49er]

...unless you buy a chain rivet tool.

Yes, buy one and replace the chain. You don't need to split the cases at 49K miles. Riviting tools are easy to use and reliable. Z1 Enterprises have a good quality tool that acts as a breaker and re-riveter, that will do the job.

 

[waterman]

Posplayr,
Not trying to dissuade you from doing a top end job, but if you are doing it for a rattling noise at idle, may want to do a search on clutch rattle for the 1100e. I don't own one, but I seem to remember seeing many posts on clutch rattles with the 1100 motors.

I am about to tear into a 650 due to serious oil thirst but if I had a decent running bike I would check other areas first before a rebuild. If it is a bad as you think (piston slap) may need oversize pistons to complete rebuild. Check compression and possibly a leak down test before making up decision. I would also think with piston slap would go away with warm engine. Just my .02.

 

[posplayr]

Waterman

Waterman

>>>>Not saying I need one but

As said earlier; I'm just trying to assess how much potential damage there might be

Thanks for the input, that is what I'm looking for. I've come to learn that a "mature" TSCC seems to have a few low speed knocks and noises that completely disappear once warmed a little and reving (i.e. they get super smooth).

I'm not planning to take the head off just yet, but I do want to stop the oil leaks and clean to engine to restore the cosmetics. On the other hand I dont want to take a marginal condition engine and blow it apart when all it needs is the chain replaced or adjuster retightened.

As you suggest the best approach is to get it running and ride it for a while to decide how deep to go. Fortunately or unfortunately I have the blue GS750 to ride while the "monster" is down.

Plan forward:

Compression test (cold at this point) today. Plugs are a little wet after the PO's efforts to tune. He bought it 5 years ago for $1300, and worked on it claiming to put no more than 500 miles on it in all that time. He was cutting his teeth on the carb tuning and frqented this board as well. Not sure what his handle was. Finances required letting here go, and he did not really want to do that.

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/gs750/GS1100_plugs_4321.jpg

Assuming Compression is reasonable and the oil leak can be fixed then the head will stay on. If not then I need to decide how far to jump in (rings, piston, guides, chains.......). With the roller bottom end on the mains, I dont want to split the case.

I only rode this 150 miles the first two days I got her, but with a inoperable Tach and Tank guage and carbs in need of final adjustment I pulled it appart to do a good cleaning last weekend.

The day I rode it to my mom's house:
http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/gs750/jims_1983_gs1100E.jpg

The way it ran at idle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-QzfHjJEHg

Next day a wash down clean up so I can look her over and do any required fix ups. Right now the main thing is cable replacement and the Tach gear retainer. I also pulled the guages apart to clean and fix the Tach face plate.

http://www.posplayr.100megsfree3.com/gs750/gs1100_after_a_bath.jpg





See a portion of a previous post below:

I bought it for $1300 last Friday. Seems to run very strong but what do I know 8-[? I mean a monster!!!:shock:.

Add ons:

Maier Sport Fairing
K&N PODs, 36 mm 1150 Carb Set (including stock 34 mm set), K&N Jet Kit Stage 3, Fork Brace, Yoshimura Exhaust, Oil Cooler, NOS Metzler Tires (almost new) , Accel Coil/Wires, Replaced Seat w/ Used OEM, Dealer installed Suzuki Stator/ Regulator,

ConditionBroken Sidecovers (tie straps), 1 Broken head bolt "C" (leaks oil through the goop), Inoperative Tach (gear holder is broken, the tach does work), Inoperative Gas gauge (Sensor?? still working on this), Original Paint cracked/faded on top of tank (planning a minor buff out job to clean it up or will plan on a repaint). Exhaust Downpipes rusted with pits but salvageable (Have Por-15 exhaust restro kit on order),
Engine is noisy/rattles at idle but goes like a bat out of hell ( carbs are not setup properly will psot more on technical forum) low speed take-off is rough, Clutch may need adjustment/replace??Brakes Work Disks in good condition

 

[posplayr]

Waterman

Waterman

I forgot so piston slap would Decrease with temp (that is great news)?
Actually when I stated it cold it made no noise, after a minute of running the slight knock would start. And it was most noticable after a 50 mile ride and it was pretty warm. With the oil cooler the temp ran right up to 210 and just stayed they while ridding. `Noises disappear when running. With a broken tach I dont know the engine speeds. At 60 mph it pulled strong in 3,4 or 5th. \\/

The most bothersome noise seemed to come from high up in the motor when it lopped at idle. There is also some chain whirl so it could be the adjuster ran out of range. The PO had bought a head gasket, but no O rings so he assumed he was going to need to pull the head, but it ran fine other than the low speed drivability issues of a mis-tune with the Yosh exhaust, 1150 36mm carbs and K&N Pods.

I would like to just get it cleaned up and make sure all of the intake rubber is sealed so I can try and balance the carbs. The PO never had any carb sticks.

He did say he when into the clutch and changed friction plates but the friction zone adjustment was wayout; maybe just where he liked it.

 

[posplayr]

Top end rebuild cancelled

Top end rebuild cancelled

I had the indignity or gringing the epoxy blob from the front of the head the PO had put on my 83 GS1100E to stop the oil leak. I then rigged up the battery and a starter switch to do the compression test. She is bone cold as I rode here last sunday before tearing down.

Here is what i got:

Pass #1
Cylinder #1 180 psi
Cylinder #2 180 psi
Cylinder #3 190 psi
Cylinder #4 205 psi

Pass #2
Cylinder #1 190 psi
Cylinder #2 170 psi

I'll take the highest and say I'm at:
190/180/190/205 psi :shock:

This is significantly higher than my 1981 GS750 which ranged from 145 to 165 and is supposed to be at max about 175 psi


9.5:1 175 psi ==> 10.25:1 190 psi

So to 9.5:1 ratio producing 175 psi would coorespond to 190 PSi at 10.25:1. It looks like I probably have a fresh 10.25 piston set in this engine, or does the 1983 come stock this way?!! \\/

Now I'm wondering if the rattle is simply a misadjusted chain that the PO screwed with. The drive chain was very loose as well and that aint rocket science to get right. :-D

Can anybody shed any light on what the stock compression should be on the 1983 GS1100E??? [-o<

Posplayr