1st Gen GSXR upgrade for GS1100ED

[Guest]

Any more progress, Jim?? Inquiring minds want to know!

 

[posplayr]

A little slow

A little slow

Mike,

I did do some moto work over the weekend, cleaning a parts ED, cleaning carbs and a new head. Also refitted the swing arm after having chain guard tabs welded. Right now looking to fit possibly a 180 rear tire.

Still have a bunch of parts coming in and the weather is a little cold windy to be spraying outside. So unless I do some powder coating things are going to be slow.

Working to streetfighter the 86 Slabbie at the same time.

Pos

 

[tone]

Hi pos
A quick question & an observation, i notice you have no end caps on the swingarm & the spacers appear to be straight is because its a trial fit or do you intend to run it like that ?

if you are fitting the end caps you will need more spacers imo & it would have been easier to make the bearing spacers top hat shaped to hold the caps & prevent the swingarm floating

cheers tone

 

[posplayr]

Tone

Tone

Boy I'm not sure?

Are you talking about the bushings that go into the swingarm to adapt the Bandit bolt to the GSXR/GS bolt (20mm v.s. 17mm)?

Or are you talking about something on the outside of the frame pivot points?

Or at the rear wheel axle?

I was not planning on anything else other than torquing it down.:-s

Do splain.

Pos

 

[tone]

Ah sorry if i didnt make myself clear mate i'll try again !

As your bushings in the swingarm pivot point appear to me at the moment, they are just straight along their length which will let the swingarm move slightly from side to side under cornering & acceleration forces, this could easily destroy your bearings & is dangerous imo

The original arm in your bike & the b12 arm you now have were originally clamped quite tightly between the frame pivot point & may have had dust caps over the end of the arm at this point, you need to replicate this to be safe

The easiest way to do this is with top hat shaped bushings which fit the bearings & the spindle but also step out just clear of the end of the arm & give the spacing you need from there right back to the frame

stock b12 bearing spacers are top hat shaped, so if you copy those but with the hole bored to suit your spindle & the brim of the hat (if you see what i mean ?) thick enough to give the required spacing you will be good to go

I hope this makes more sense to you mate
cheers tone

 

[tone]

Sorry one more thing have you replaced the spacer between the swingarm bearings with one of the correct length that fits your spindle ?

I suspect you have already done this but for those that dont know this spacer has 2 uses ...
#1 it prevents the bearings collapsing inwards, hence needing to be the correct length
#2 it supports the spindle to prevent it from bending, hence needing to be a reasonably good fit dia wise

cheers tone

 

[posplayr]

Tone

Tone

Thanks for the attention to detail, but if I had posted a picture of the bushings un installed you probably would have seen what you were looking for. Katman made the bushings and they are in a "top hat" form. The main difference between his standard bushings is that he normally puts a 6mm rim on both sides and I wanted my swinger offset to allow for the rear master plunger. So mine are 10.5mm and 2 mm brakes side and sprocket side respectively. I know 10.5+2=12.5 which is 0.5mm larger than 6+6=12mm, but we took up a little excess slope in between the pivots to increase the 2 mm rim up from 1.5mm. I really needed a 4.5 mm offset (6+4.5=10.5 rim size on brake side).

I have it mocked back up with a 180/55-17 rear wheel so I will take pics of the bushing later.


Pos

 

[tone]

Thanks pos
i hope you dont think i was sticking my nose in where it wasnt wanted mate i was just concerned for your safety

tone

 

[posplayr]

Tone

Tone

Thats why I post ; to get input. Guys like you have got far more experience in this stuff than I do.

Thanks for your support of the site and my little project .

Pos

 

[Guest]

for anyone who may be tracking this. Here is a pic of what the b12 bushings look like.

 

[Guest]

Katman,

Nice diagram, I had to hog out a lot of rubber on item 9 to make it fit on an 1100ez. Does it fit without modification on the Katanas?

 

[jwhelan65]

Here is pic a of the redcucer bushings installed inside the stock b12

 

[Guest]

Katman,

Nice diagram, I had to hog out a lot of rubber on item 9 to make it fit on an 1100ez. Does it fit without modification on the Katanas?

Nope, lots of hoggin out.

 

[posplayr]

Yoshi Mania

Yoshi Mania

OK I'm getting started back on the Gixxer conversion so that I'm ready for the Mt Shasta Ride at the end of Aug. Got several up grades planned along with the suspension. One of them is a new (to me but used) 4:2:1 SS Yoshimura header off of a 1991 GSXR 1100.

I posted about trying to get the clean here. The Bluing is a total PITA to get off. Like Reno Bruce said, if you rub forever it will come off. I think I need to rub longer .

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=143149

I was really having a Yoshifest last weekend. I was able to disassemble all of my Yoshi cans getting them ready for som Stainless Steel wool to replace all that messy fiberglass. Also after a few days of soaking, could not get the mid pipe off of the header. Finally took the Makita Grinder (diamond bladed saw) and split the pipe to remove it.

After a prelimianry trial fit to make sure there was not going to be a "big issue", I slotted all of the exhaust flanges. The GSXR heads have the same spacing as the GS, bolt spacing at the port is slightly narrower. Thanks to Ray for the idea, I just sliced open the bolt holes. These flanges are 1/4" thick Stainless so no worries about strength.

Ahh, but the I know, it might be better to just cut them off, but I can still do that, but I think this will work fine. SS flanges are $15 a peice so I'm saving $100 after install doing this.

So after finally being able to get the mid pipe off, and the flanges split I bolted the header up, put teh mid pipe back on. Here is what it will generally look like. I also just set on the NOS Yoshi can I just go off Ebay. Fit is not great; a little clearance issue in the front and it is hanging too low.

In theory the 4:2:1 provides about 1.5" more ground clearance that a 4:1 assuming it is tucked up to the engine the same distance. With a 17" Gixxer conversion this is very improtant. I'm going 18" wheels, but the 4:2:1 should also help the mid range, is lighter and should last as long as I can avoid totaling the bike.

Final fit on the can and how it hanges will come after I finish hanging the header. Progress being made at least.

Pos

 

[posplayr]

Custom bender

Custom bender

So here is the big question, can I custom bend the upper parts of the down tube to achieve a better fit? It seems like doing a little bending up near the port would bring the bottom closer to the pan and realize something close to that 1.5" gain in ground clearance.

I might see if I can rent one, but it might be just as cheap to buy one of these. Can I slightly unbend with a bender? There is a slight clearance problem near the frame cross bar with the center pipes. I could just dent the pipe, but a slight bend up of 5 deg would clear nicely. Then 10 degrees down a few inches further.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38024

After all that is done, I can still use the bender to finish the mid pipe for the just right fit.

Pos

 

[salty_monk]

The cheap way is to pack it tight with fine sand & seal the ends, then bend away. The sand stops the pipes crushing. When you've finished empty & flush.

This sounds crass but it works great!

Dan

 

[posplayr]

How tight do you have to seal the ends? I was mainly worried about "unbending"; sounds like the sand would stop any collapsing; Great idea. .

I made a windsurfing boom bender about 20+ years ago after a friend showed me how. Rebent my same old booms for many years.

I could do that as well to match the bends on each upper pipe. :-\\\

Thinkin Thinkin......more ideas.......

Thanks Dan.
Jim

 

[salty_monk]

Not that tight... just tight enough to stop the sand from falling out under pressure when you bend it. Gaffa tape (duct tape) would probably be sufficient, maybe with a cut out plastic cap stuck over the holes first. You'd have to fill the whole header or cut yourself a cap with some leg on it & secure with a jubille clip....

Dan

 

[Guest]

How tight do you have to seal the ends? I was mainly worried about "unbending"; sounds like the sand would stop any collapsing; Great idea. .

I made a windsurfing boom bender about 20+ years ago after a friend showed me how. Rebent my same old booms for many years.

I could do that as well to match the bends on each upper pipe. :-\\\

Thinkin Thinkin......more ideas.......

Thanks Dan.
Jim

Hey Jim, is this your bike for sale here in Vancouver craigslist?
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/mcy/1210587978.html

 

[posplayr]

Rob,
Damn I always liked that look. Guess someone else did as well .
Crap should I start another GS fraud thread? Or............. Could there be two of them?
Jim