3 Dyno Jet Kit GS 1000 Dyna III electronic ignition

[Anonymous]

Has anyone put a stage 3 Dyno Jet Kit In their GS 1000. This kit calls for aftermarket pipes (which I have) and individual filter pods (which I am getting). I am also adding a Dyna III electronic ignition and Dyna coils if they make them for the 79 gs1000 (if anyone knows this info would be helpful) I will also be adding a Pingel Petcock. There are a few reasons that I am performing these upgrades. First, I have the original coils still on the bike and the plug wires are beginning to dry rot. I believe these wires and coils are providing very week and inaccurate spark, which is causing me to miss on a cylinder every couple of strokes. Second, the valve handle on my original petcock is broken and I believe it is restricting my fuel flow. Third, I had a shop clean my carbs and something just doesn’t seem right. When I roll hard on the throttle the bike just kind of goes dead like it isn’t getting any fuel (this even happens at high rpm which it should not). All these problems are resulting in a MAJOR power loss like say 15-20 hp (just a guess) Anyhow, if anyone has any comments or suggestions they would be helpful. Thanks everyone and ride safe. Dan Rossiter

 

[hoyterb]

:lol: clean my crabs ? ROFLMAO !! :lol: Probably what happened when they cleaned your CARBS is they put the needles too low causing a very lean fuel mix.Take your carbs apart and raise the needles up a couple of notches and try it again.You might have to raise them another notch if it is still sluggish.

 

[Anonymous]

And always remember...a clean crab is a happy crab???hehehe

 

[massakins]

With what I'm hearing here, I wouldn't go too far before I verified the engine was sound. At minimum a compression check or better yet, a leak down test. Once this verifies the engine is good, i.e. all cylinders are roughly equal, you can then tune further. I prefer the Dyna S over the Dyna 3 just because its cleaner and easier to install. Dyna coils are a definite must. At this point you can begin jetting. It would be very unlikely that the needles were moved during a carb cleaning. Probably need to look at the jetting instead. Don't make the mistake of trying to fine tune a weak engine or one with a weak ignition. Good luck.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi. I can help you out. I've done similar mod's to my '79 Gs1000EN,but I also have a 1085 Wiseco kit. I'm not an expert,so I don't know how much jetting is changed by the bigger pistons. I have a Vance&Hines 4-1 megaphone,Dyna 'S' ignition/coils,K&N chrome ovals(p/n RC2454,they fit nice),and I recommend having your cam timing set at 106 degrees. The slotted cam sprocket cost me $50 at V&H,and 2 hours labor to set timing.Bikes come from the factory with their timing anywhere from 102-115,so yours could be at 106,but I would have it checked,it's worth it! The Dynojet kit # is 3304.001 Stage 3. I hope to save you time by giving you my final jetting settings. Remember to consider my 1085 kit and any difference in pipes,but this should get you in the ballpark. My bike runs strong everywhere,no flat spots,and the gas mileage is 38-40 city,and about 45 on 100 mile day trip. The only minor complaint I have is some slight 'spitting' out of the filters when bike first warms up, just a few seconds. Increasing the pilot jet WILL NOT help,or adjusting the pilot screws underneath. I contacted Dynojet and they seemed aware of this but said I may have to live with it,which I can do. Pulling the choke a bit more than normal eliminates 'spitting'. The pilot jet is #15, side air screws 2 1/2 turns out, pilot screws 1 1/4 out(these are set at factory and if you think yours are untouched,leave alone, otherwise LIGHTLY seat them and turn them out.) My needle clip is in groove #3 from the top,no spacer used,main jet #142,(the #138 is not enough). REMOVE the 2 float bowl vent tubes. One other minor complaint is you may get some hesitation in strong crosswinds,but not a big deal. One other tip you may not be aware of, DO NOT mix up the float needle valves and their respective seats. As they wear they become 'matched sets'. Leaking fuel can result. Good Luck! Let me know if this helps. I have a lot of trial and error learning with these bikes over the years,so pick my brain if you need more advice on jetting,plug color reading,etc. KK.
PS:as for the roll on problem,it can be too little or too much fuel. The carbs must be cleaned by someone you trust to do a good job. All o-rings checked,fuel/air passages blown out,float height adjusted to about .95/.96'',etc.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the advice. Let me tell you a little more about the bike. The V&H pipe was installed before I purchased the bike, which was last year. The bike sat in a barn for six years and did not run when I bought it. However, I was in good condition and only had 27,000 miles on it. Thus, I know little about the bikes history but with only 27,000 miles on a solid engine like the GS1000 I am confident that structural integrity of the engine has not been compromised. If this were indeed the case would adding these parts not help the situation? Thank you for the advice Dan Rossiter I guess I’m still learning to spell

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The new parts won't hurt anything,it's the 'dry' start it must have had when re-started. No oil film on the cylinder walls,etc. But if it's not burning oil or making noises you may have been lucky. A compression check is still in order. Six years is a long time to sit,the carbs would need a REAL good cleaning,and the various o-rings would be in poor shape. KK.

 

[Anonymous]

Question for Keith: ( Hi Keith! )

I have a GS1000S into which I am going to fit a pair of GS1000C/H/E cams as I don't like the characteristics of the S cams (too peaky). I intend to degree them in, and wondered where you got the 106 figure from? Is that a factory figure?

Thanks in anticipation.

My other bike (the GS7/11) has Kent cams set at 110, RS36 carbs, 1085 kit, Dyna S ignition, Dyna coils, Taylor leads, gasflowed big-port head, high volume oil pump gears and an Eagle pipe.

Here's a tip: it sometimes helps to raise the float height when tuning GS's fitted with standard VM26/28 carbs and K and N type filters. Reduce the measured height to 19-20mm (from 24mm). In some cases this will improve atomisation and allow bigger main jets to work properly so that you can actually use a smaller jet, and it sometimes will cure mid range hesitations.

Me though, if I was using stock carbs, I would stick with the stock airbox. On a road bike anyway.

Good luck Dan.

 

[Anonymous]

Im just getting to the cam degreeing also and i think the 106 figure came from the cope racing website

This may help you find the info http://www.coperacing.com/techtip.html

http://www.coperacing.com/askgreg.html

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

106 degree cam timing.

106 degree cam timing.

Hi. I got that recommendation years ago,in the '84 Motorcyclist mag. They built a GS1000E project bike. They say they did it without compromising dependability. I always have trusted their opinions. They said the 106 timing is the best compromise between low/mid-range torque and top end horsepower. Recently,on this site I have seen others say the same thing. It was also my local Vance&Hines suggestion. There were other reasons I believe in the mag,but I gotta get to work, so if I have more I'll send later. Good Day! KK.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok I’m going to have a compression test performed when I get home for spring break. I am also going to have the cams degreed at 106 if the compression test comes back positive. If all goes well I’ll be adding the K&Ns the ignition and the coils. I really have a gut feeling that the original and decaying coils are the cause of all my problems. Thanks again and I'll let you guys know how it went after I get back form spring break.

P.S. I trust the shop I originally took the bike to and they cleaned the carburetors and were the first to start the bike.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok I?m going to have a compression test performed when I get home for spring break. I am also going to have the cams degreed at 106 if the compression test comes back positive. If all goes well I?ll be adding the K&Ns the ignition and the coils. I really have a gut feeling that the original and decaying coils are the cause of all my problems. Thanks again and I'll let you guys know how it went after I get back form spring break.

P.S. I trust the shop I originally took the bike to and they cleaned the carburetors and were the first to start the bike.

Dan I havent thoroughly read all the previous posts but does your bike have adjustable cam gears. I dont think they are a stock item.

 

[Anonymous]

Slopoke thanks for raising this point (about the adjustable cam gears) I have only had my gs1000 for a year and am just getting my feet wet with some mechanical work. Collage kind of puts the kibosh on the time I have to actually work on the bike. I’m just trying to get it running strong with some upgraded parts. Anyhow where can I get adjustable cam gears, is it worth the money and how hard are they to install?

 

[Anonymous]

Slopoke thanks for raising this point (about the adjustable cam gears) I have only had my gs1000 for a year and am just getting my feet wet with some mechanical work. Collage kind of puts the kibosh on the time I have to actually work on the bike. I?m just trying to get it running strong with some upgraded parts. Anyhow where can I get adjustable cam gears, is it worth the money and how hard are they to install?

anything is not too hard to do if you have the time--I dont think you want to fool with that one. Not because it is so dificult but requires lots of patience when re installing the cams--re adjusting the valves and the actual degreeing of the cam. Please read the links i posted above. if yo would not be afraid to change out your camshafts then the changing of the cam gear is a nit and bolt job. the degreeing is where the time and patience comes in..Also you need a degree wheel--Get lots of advice and opinions before you jump into this thing. I am still not crazy about yore stage 3 jet kit either. there is no such thing as install and run with those carb mods. luck maybe but lots of trial and error--kit or not.

 

[skip]

Dan I'm with slopoke on the cam thing. Years ago I did install the slotted sprockets and atempted to degree the cams I had a shop called 'fours and more" walk me through it . They sent me a cassette (voice only ) and i followed the instuctions I thought.They had recomended 104 and 106 degree cam timing on the intake and exhaust and when i put it together i raced my bike and it went 2 tenths slower. put the stock cam sprokets back on and went 2 tenths faster. It took me three trys before I got it right and when I did I only ran 1 tenth and 2mph quicker in the 1/4 mile. Alot of work for a little gain. Now I realize I could have got it right the first time and saved alot of time but I still did not see a huge difference with the degreed stock cams. Now if you are going for different or bigger cams that is a different story then degreeing the cams are a must but you will see much more horespower..............skip

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Vance&Hines billed me $50 for the slotted cam sprocket,and the labor was 2 hours to set timing,but my engine was on their bench and was a total rebuild. The improved power was worth the trouble/expense,at least for me. I can't tell you how much the timing itself contributed to power,but all the mod's combined(1085 kit/timing/pipe/filters/ign'&coils)really impressed me. It runs much stronger than stock and is still dependable. KK.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

For Brit7.11

For Brit7.11

Hi again. Just thought I'd send the article's own words about cam timing suggestion. This is from the Dec.'84 Motorcyclist mag:'Another important variable in stock engine performance is cam timing. Two stock bikes that differ in power also probably differ in cam timing. Stock GS1000's often have intake-cam lobe centers of 115 or more degrees. With an intake cam this retarded, warm up is slow, the engine runs hot, carburetion is difficult to set correctly and the powerband is narrow in rpm. With intake-and exhaust-cam lobe centers set BETWEEN 104 and 106 degrees, your Suzuki will have a broad powerband, excellent throttle response and the best compromise between peak and low-rpm power. The mileage will be at its best too. Time the cams,it is well worth the bother'. They did a 'how to' article on cam timing in the Oct. '80 issue. Maybe they can still send to anyone interested. I may also send it ,if I can find time and there is interest.(I am a REAL slow typist) KK.

 

[Anonymous]

Another couple of tips for Thunderdan1:

I have a '79 GS 1000, had similar running problems and have performed near-identical mods to those you intend.
Fit a good inline fuel filter, especially if your tank's a little rusty (in England, all tanks are rusty!). You want one that pulls everything out, right down to the ultra-fine stuff that looks like brown chalk dust. Some plastic mesh types let this through. Result? Blocked carb emulsion tubes (the holes in these things are tiny) leading to loss of power/misfires and, eventually, a dead bike in the middle of nowhere. The standard petcock filter inside the tank may as well not be there, in my opinion. I fitted a paper-element type meant for some car, cost peanuts and works perfectly.
Next up, if you do go ahead with your stage 3 intake mods, you'll definitely need the Pingle fuel tap (if my experience is anything to go by).
I mention this just on the chance that you decide not to bother with one. Stock vacuum taps rely on a low intake pressure to keep them open. Pod filters increase the intake pressure. The result is a motor which runs great until you decide to give it some hammer, whereupon the carbs run dry! I discovered this while trying to pass a truck with another coming the other way... I then spent the next few days messing around with different float heights, checking for blocked emulsion tubes/jets and all sorts until discovering the answer in a tuning book.
Stock coils/HT leads? Throw 'em in the trash now if you haven't already.
I traced a mystery misfire to mine. Just because the LT/HT readings check out on an ohmeter, doesn't mean the internal insulation is still ok. Pair of Dyna 3-ohm (green) coils and a set of Taylor leads did the trick.
Finally, a colourtune plug is worth it's weight in gold for initial carb setup when installing your dynojet kit, at least for getting your idle mixture correct. You can then go from there. I guess no DIY job will ever be as accurate as a professional dyno setup, but then there ain't one that costs as much, either! One thing I noticed: the base settings in the instruction book give you an extremely lean-running engine (not good!) Follow the instructions carefully and you can't go far wrong, but be ready for a few carb strip-downs/rebalancing...
All the above results from trial and error. Hope some of it might be of use to you.
p.s. Brilliant site!

I discovered a

 

[Anonymous]

Well fellas it seems that I have really initiated quite a question here. Unfortunately I’m in quite a quandary as weather or no to install the stage III jet kit. I want my bike to run well but I also want the extra power. Anyhow the stage III might still be a practical investment seeing as how I’ll be upgrading the engine when it finally needs rebuilt, cams, higher compression pistons, port & polish etc. Well keep the responses coming guys I really appreciate the advice.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Petcock tip.

Petcock tip.

I agree the pingle petcock is an improvement. But I'm not clear on your increased intake pressure thing. The stock petcock has a diaphragm that is kept closed by a spring. The carb vacuum defeats the spring to allow fuel flow. You say pod filters increase intake pressure. Are you saying that the increase in pressure actually works to close the petcock diaphragm? How? By applying suction to the other side of diaphragm? The fuel flows by gravity,the rate controlled by the float needles. How can pod filters or any filter create a suction that would close the diaphragm? Am I reading something wrong? I know which direction the spring/diaphragm move. Any increase in intake pressure would make the petcock open quicker. Let me know. I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't understand how. KK. 'PS'. I still have a stock petcock and pods, but I have never had a fuel starvation problem.