5.5" wheel 5/8 offset update info

[Guest]

I have been getting a few emails regarding this so I am posting the info for everyone interested.

The GS stock sprocket Carrier is 4.5mm deeper than the gsxr carrier. That is to say the sprocket sits 4.5mm closer to the center of the wheel.

IF you are using the stock gs carrier then you need a 0.490" sprocket side spacer. IF you are using a gsxr carrier that came with a wheel than you have to add 0.175" (4.5mm) to the spacer for a spacer size of 0.665". This will keep the sprockets aligned.

SOME of you are experiencing frame/chain issues. many sprockets are made with a relief on the outside surface. IF you turn the sprocket around you can gain a couple MM. BUT... you must take the same amount of material off of the spacer behind the counter sprocket to keep things in line. IF you can't find anyone to do that send it to me and I will do it for 5.00.
another option is to take the carrier in to a machine shop and have them turn the sprocket surface down to gain some clearence. NOT to much though, YOu don't want be braking it if you are a high HP owner or a hard launcher.

Anyhow, that is why some of you are having problems. The GS and the GSXR sprocket carriers are not the same.

HOpe this helps some of you out.

 

[posplayr]

Thanks Very Much

Thanks Very Much

Very useful information and I will sure take up your offer on those "trick" parts. Very generous and a gentleman as always.

Posplayr

 

[zig06]

Funny that you should post this...

I finally got all of the pieces together to complete the rear suspension swap on my bike. What I'm doing is installing a '85 GS700 swingarm on to my '86 GS550. The arm install was tight, but it fit. The rear wheel is off of a '94 Katana 750. Which again was tight, but it fit.

I'm using the sprocket carrier off of the Katana wheel and it doesn't line up with my stock '86 550 countershaft sprocket. I'm buying a laser tomorrow and see if I can measure how far off it is, but it looks like the countershaft needs to shift away from the engine by about 3/8's of an inch.

Have you ever run into this? And any recommendations on where I can find a countershaft sprocket with that kind of offset?

Thanks.

 

[kichigai]

It looks like the countershaft needs to shift away from the engine by about 3/8's of an inch.

Have you ever run into this? And any recommendations on where I can find a countershaft sprocket with that kind of offset?

Thanks.

I think 3/8 is equivelent to a 10mm sprocket. Here are a few venders that carry them.

Sprocket Center
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/358784/afam-530-off-set-sprocket---suzuki.html

Drive Systems
http://www.drivesystemsusa.com/p/359131/afam-530-chromoly-steel-off-set-front-sprocket---suzuki.html

 

[salty_monk]

9.525mm.... less than 20 thou difference.

 

[zig06]

I think 3/8 is equivelent to a 10mm sprocket. Here are a few venders that carry them.

Sprocket Center
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/358784/afam-530-off-set-sprocket---suzuki.html

Drive Systems
http://www.drivesystemsusa.com/p/359131/afam-530-chromoly-steel-off-set-front-sprocket---suzuki.html

Thanks for the heads up on this. I couldn't find a decent laser today, but now at least I'll be able to do something when I finally find out what I need.

 

[Guest]

Funny that you should post this...

I finally got all of the pieces together to complete the rear suspension swap on my bike. What I'm doing is installing a '85 GS700 swingarm on to my '86 GS550. The arm install was tight, but it fit. The rear wheel is off of a '94 Katana 750. Which again was tight, but it fit.

I'm using the sprocket carrier off of the Katana wheel and it doesn't line up with my stock '86 550 countershaft sprocket. I'm buying a laser tomorrow and see if I can measure how far off it is, but it looks like the countershaft needs to shift away from the engine by about 3/8's of an inch.

Have you ever run into this? And any recommendations on where I can find a countershaft sprocket with that kind of offset?


Thanks.

Zig,

Don't guess on the numbers so you don't waste any money.

Measure your orig wheel with the sprocket carrier on. Measure the distance from bearing to bearing. Then Measure the new wheel and divide by 2. If the wheel is 20mm wider 1/2 is 10mm. That is your front sprocket offset starting point. you then have to compare the sprocket carriers to make sure the distance from the bearing to the sprocket surface is the same or you have to adjust accordingly. Then take your stock spacer on the sprocket side (rear wheel) and knock off 10mm and you have a perfectly aligned chain.

I am going to do a better "HOW TO" on my website as soon as I get my camera back from the shop. There is plenty of confusion about this and I think pics help tremendously in envisioning the process.

 

[kichigai]

Here is link to a inch to metric conversion chart in case anyone is interested.

http://mdmetric.com/tech/cvtcht.htm

 

[zig06]

Zig,

Don't guess on the numbers so you don't waste any money.

Measure your orig wheel with the sprocket carrier on. Measure the distance from bearing to bearing. Then Measure the new wheel and divide by 2. If the wheel is 20mm wider 1/2 is 10mm. That is your front sprocket offset starting point. you then have to compare the sprocket carriers to make sure the distance from the bearing to the sprocket surface is the same or you have to adjust accordingly. Then take your stock spacer on the sprocket side (rear wheel) and knock off 10mm and you have a perfectly aligned chain.

I am going to do a better "HOW TO" on my website as soon as I get my camera back from the shop. There is plenty of confusion about this and I think pics help tremendously in envisioning the process.

Thanks for the help, and post pic's when you can. I will say that the brake side spacer and the sprocket side spacer is the same, but the sprocket carrier is about a half inch wider. And the wheel bearings are spaced about a quarter inch wider. And like I said before, the rear sprocket is about 10mm farther out than the countershaft sprocket.

This is why I was going to do the laser alignment. But if you've got a better way, I'm more than willing to give it a try. Tossing a chain even at 50mph is not my idea of fun. :shock:

 

[Guest]

Zig,

I outlined the method above but a laser works great and can come in handy with other things. You can never have enough tech toys...

 

[zig06]

Zig,

I outlined the method above but a laser works great and can come in handy with other things. You can never have enough tech toys...

This is true, this is also why I've got 2 overflowing tool chests... 6 years of racing cars will do that to anyone.

I was looking to find one that didn't just put a dot on the mark. I want one the will actually show a line, like some wood working or regular carpentry tools. That way I'll know that not only is the rear sprocket pointing at the countershaft, but that it's also correctly lined up in the swingarm.

 

[Guest]

get some fog in a can. We use it all the time on movie sets or a misting bottle. Just something for the laser to aluminate along the path and you will have your line.

I was looking at the lasers too but I think I am going to make one that sits sprocket center that aligns center countershaft sprocket.

 

[RJ]

You might want to look into a Motion Pro chain alignment tool. Low tech, easy to use, fairly cheap on eBay.

 

[ericzx7]

This is true, this is also why I've got 2 overflowing tool chests... 6 years of racing cars will do that to anyone.

I was looking to find one that didn't just put a dot on the mark. I want one the will actually show a line, like some wood working or regular carpentry tools. That way I'll know that not only is the rear sprocket pointing at the countershaft, but that it's also correctly lined up in the swingarm.

I found a black & decker laser that projects a solid line, instead of a dot, and it seems to work pretty well and was reasonably priced. That may work for you.