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$50 modification thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter jfsebastian
  • Start date Start date
the nealeys are about the same as the safety seals cept they are black not brown same concept and the safety seals do not require a cement just the lube to aid in insertion on large thick tires
 
the nealeys are about the same as the safety seals cept they are black not brown same concept and the safety seals do not require a cement just the lube to aid in insertion on large thick tires

Good to know!

OK, so a tube of the Nealey string plugs is $11.95 plus shipping. Add in about $30 (less on sale) for a Slime brand electric pump, and you're in the roadside motorcycle tire repair business for less than $50. At least for tubeless tires.

If you run tubes, patch kits are super-cheap and easy to find. I've had good luck with Skabs patches ("Pick 'em and stick 'em!") on bicycle tubes, but I dunno if they work on motorcycles.
 
Lowering forks

Lowering forks

Guys, an inexpensive trick to get he forks to sag and give your bike a sweet and low look, often seen on japanese bobbers.
Please follow this link or check my blog.

Does this seem like a safe way to go?

JF
 
Guys, an inexpensive trick to get he forks to sag and give your bike a sweet and low look, often seen on japanese bobbers.
Please follow this link or check my blog.

Does this seem like a safe way to go?

JF



No, it's not really safe, but when has that ever stopped chopper people?

That said, it's not really mechanically unsafe -- the forks won't fall apart or anything. Since you're still using the original damper rod, it shouldn't cause any clearance problems, either.

It's unsafe simply because it severely compromises the function of the front suspension by limiting suspension travel. You can't use the brakes nearly as well when the forks bottom out too quickly.

Aside from the cut spring, it's also easily reversible. And in fact, you could simply save the cut end of the spring and put it back in with a washer between the pieces if you wanted to, and it would function the same.

If you're a "chopper" person, you won't care. If you're not, you'd never do this to your bike.
 
First off, its not making the forks "sag". Its lowering the forks by cutting the springs and adding a shim to keep the load the same and keep them from diving and bottoming out. And if this wasnt a safe thing to do, why does Suzuki sell kits to do it? The fact that youve been given wrong infomation here jfsebastian doesnt make this the "wrong" thing or way to do it. This is infact the correct way to lower your bike's front. You put yourself in more of harms way by raising the height of your bick without doing more than just adding to the height. A great many tech advances have come from just such people.
 
Agreed -- if you've just GOT to lower your forks, this is the "right" way to do it.

I just don't agree with the whole idea of compromising function that severely for the sake of a certain look. But that's a debate for another time and place, and there are far worse modifications out there.
 
Well, the right way would be to change the spring vs cutting them. Just like all these guys with their cars lowered that either cut a coil out or heat the spring. A shorter spring is fine but the compression rate of the spring needs to be changed.
 
For a smoother clutch pull and better, more progressive clutch bite, try installing a new set of OEM Suzuki clutch springs. Under $10 from Bikebandit.
 
i used the EBC ones for more aggressive riding style i like the slightly harder clutch feel
 
You are right in that it is not the wrong way as almost every GS dragbike in this country that has stock forks on them are done this very way. I know some guys running in the 7s at over 170 that have stock forks done this way & I am doing a set of 1150 forks right now the same way for a Super Gas bike. Ray.
 
If you're a "chopper" person, you won't care. If you're not, you'd never do this to your bike.

I guess I?m a chopper person then.

Thanks all for the feedback. I guess I?ll be cutting 6-8 cm or so.
Will however compress the forks to check were the bottom is first.

JF

P.S. I love this forum. So much knowledge and so many willing to share.
 
Now, back to $50 upgrades... here's one I just remembered:

New cables and levers.

New clutch and throttle cables (high-quality OEM Suzuki cables, not that Motion Pro crapola) plus a new clutch and brake lever should put you right at that $50, depending on your bike model.

YMMV, of course, especially if your bike has dual throttle cables, but it will go a long way toward making your bike look and feel new.

-=-=-=-=-

Here's another:

New rubbers.

No, not those kinds of rubbers -- I mean all the assorted rubber bits and pieces and bumpers and cushions and grommets scattered throughout your GS. A surprising number of these are still available from Suzuki.

For example, side cover grommets could save you a lost side cover someday, and are maybe a buck fiddy each.

Set aside $50 and go nuts -- seat cushions, center stand cushions, exhaust grommets, instrument mounting cushions, tank mounting cushions, shift lever rubber, etc. Don't forget the various fuel and vacuum hoses, too. Or, just throw a few in every time you order Suzuki parts.

Soon, your bike will feel and sound much newer. Fewer rattles and clunks. Not as much stuff falling off. It's the little things.
 
$50.00 mods

$50.00 mods

If you have the chrome wedge type headlight mounts and are going for a lower look. Pull your fork tubes and headlight and flip them over. drill out your guage mounting bolts and use longer bolts and chrome spacers to lower them also. Install a set of lower bars , or clubman bars and give your bike a lower look without actually lowering it
 
whats wrong with motion pro, isnt that also made in japan?

I don't know where they are made and it doesn't really matter, but they are not nearly as robust and high quality as Suzuki OEM cables.

Put them side-by-side, and the differences are obvious. Suzuki cables come pre-lubed, and the MP cables do not. They are also well-known to wear out and break sooner.

Sure, MP cables will work. I've used them myself a couple of times. But the Suzuki cables are surprisingly cheap -- usually only a buck or two more, if that.

The same applies to control levers, too. The aftermarket MP clutch and brake levers are much weaker and very poorly made compared to the OEM Suzuki levers. On an '83+ GS, the hard black anodized finish on a Suzuki lever lasts indefinitely. With a Motion Pro lever, the cheesy paint wears off in a couple hundred miles.

And again, the Suzuki levers cost only a buck or two more than the imitations. Unless you're stuck with no alternatives, why bother with the cheap stuff when it really isn't even cheap?
 
If you have the chrome wedge type headlight mounts and are going for a lower look. Pull your fork tubes and headlight and flip them over. drill out your guage mounting bolts and use longer bolts and chrome spacers to lower them also. Install a set of lower bars , or clubman bars and give your bike a lower look without actually lowering it


Good one -- and pretty much free!

I've also seen people turn a pair of standard bars upside-down to form a pretty convincing imitation of clubmans. This won't work with every handlebar, obviously, but it definitely shows a high level of frugality.
 
(bad pics...bite me...)

Shipping added a hair, but you may be able to find the stuff locally:

GS500 rear wheel, $25
Bandit 600 caliper hanger and caliper, $25

Press your original GS bearings into the GS500 wheel, and away you go. Of course, this does get more complicated if your wheel doesn't come with a sprocket carrier, but you can snag sprocket/chain take-offs from the GS500 community for shipping.

gs750new2.JPG


GS500 front wheel + rotor, $25
Additional rotor, $10
Aluminum plate to cut hangers, usually free (go to a welder and ask if they have scrap you can pick through)
Tokico 4-piston Calipers from Suzuki/Kawasaki, $15

And you get:

gs310brakes.JPG


Double your budget and you can get this:

fzron.JPG

...that's a full FZR600 front end, btw.
 
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Good one -- and pretty much free!

I've also seen people turn a pair of standard bars upside-down to form a pretty convincing imitation of clubmans. This won't work with every handlebar, obviously, but it definitely shows a high level of frugality.


blackmaggot3.JPG


Honda CX500 deluxe bars are awesome...
 
whats the benefit of clubman style bars just the look? i dont imagine it too comfy on a longish ride.:confused:
 
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