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550 Igniter interchange success!!!!!!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter spyug
  • Start date Start date
Great work on this Spyug!! Are you going to slot the plate so the timing is adjustable? Might not have to adjust at all but it also might be fun to play with. Use as much advance as the engine will tolerate without detonation.
 
I hadn't thought about that Ed until Chef brought it up. I had always thought these ignitions were fixed. I'll need to read the write ups on it. While I remember seeing a post or 2 on the subject I pretty much glossed over them since they didn't have any relevance for me at the time. Is there a spcific post you can refer me to?

Thanks for mentioning it.

cheers,
spyug
 
spyug said:
I hadn't thought about that Ed until Chef brought it up. I had always thought these ignitions were fixed. I'll need to read the write ups on it. While I remember seeing a post or 2 on the subject I pretty much glossed over them since they didn't have any relevance for me at the time. Is there a spcific post you can refer me to?

Thanks for mentioning it.

cheers,
spyug
Click to expand...


Just slot the plate hold down screw holes allowing the plate to rotate a few degrees. Rotate the plate to move the pickups. You can easily turn it 2 degrees which will make your initial advance match that of the regular 550 set up.
 
Well I trotted down to my pro-wrench this afternoon in search of a replacement coil. Imagine my surprise when he pronounced mine fine but in need of new plug caps. I had checked myself of course and it was definitely showing way over spec on the secondary windings.....or so I thought and it didn't spark. Brian's multimeter showed it to be in spec and he suggested I try it again without the plug caps ( I had done it that way I thought...must be losing it).

So I took some new caps and tried it again after supper and low and behold it sparks fine. There is a voltage drop at the coils of only about 1/10 of a volt so I'm not going to do the coil mod just yet.

With the long weekend coming up I'm now in good position to fire it up. Once I hear it running I'll chalk it up as fixed.

Stay tuned and I'll report in when I get her fired up.

Cheers all,
Spyug
 
Hate to say this...but could the problem have been the plug caps all along and not the ignitor?
 
Hate to say this...but could the problem have been the plug caps all along and not the ignitor?
Click to expand...

No, I'm certain about the igniter being toast. There is a test for the resistance of the pinouts in the manual which I followed to a "T" and when I opened it up there was some evidence of burning too. It was junk.

The old crank triggers were melted
Click to expand...
Well they weren't until I put the torch to them :). Before I got smart and took the pick-ups off the plate. I was being lazy and figured I could heat up the rotor ( to free up the locktite) get it off and get the plate out in one piece. Kinda forgot about the conductivity of metal :(

I think what may have originally happened is that the PO had taken the bike apart to clean, repaint and refurb it and when he started to put it together again he miss wired it as I mentioned before. There was no main ground wire fitted and the positive from the battery had been wired to an engine bolt and the negative line from the battery was attached to the power terminal on the starter motor, effectively reversing polarity. I suspect he tried to turn it over at one point with the igniter in place and that was the end of it.

Possibly I did it myself when I first attempted to turn it over but whenever or however it happened it got toasted. As I've been told a few times, these igniters were not very robust and I guess it didn't take much to ruin them.

I hope the 750 kit works better and lasts longer :)

Spyug
 
that old unit had a rather lazy rewire.
It looks like only one side failed and yet they could not solder the damned thing back on right.
 
Thanks Pete I found your project to be inspiring and it helped me get into this little experiment.

I'm happy that my efforts have gotten the interest of a few folks as I'm hearing that a couple of guys are working on other ways of creating an ignition for these bikes. Hopefully these can translate into options for other models of bikes too. It would be great if we could get some new ways of bringing old bikes back to life.

Stay tuned, its going to get interesting.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
Yes, if you slot your plate you can get the total & initial advance basically back to spec, the only thing then is that it comes in several hundred RPM earlier but hopefully the engine will tolerate that....

:)
 
Yes, if you slot your plate you can get the total & initial advance basically back to spec
Click to expand...

I'm interested in knowing more about this. I know it has been written up before but I can't quite find it. Would you be able to point me in the right direction or give me anymore information?

I do recall reading a bit about it but I didn't really pay attention as it didn't mean much to me at the time.

Any information would be helpful.

Cheers all,
Spyug
 
Do you have a TDC mark? I know it's on the advance but do you have a mark?
If not it may benefit you to make one by lining up the cams to tdc #1&4 and make your own mark.
Then with a degree wheel make timing marks at idle (15 degrees?) and full advance (35 degrees?) Not sure of stock settings.
With the marks use a basic timing light for the advance and static timing for idle.
 
One of the new members is working on it right now. I'll pass it on to him.

thanks very much for bringing it up and sharing. Another great idea if it can be adapted.

Cheers
Andy
 
Clone. I am working on the HEI mod at this moment. As of today i have all items and will begin wiring tonight. Hopefully i will have some results by the weekend. Matchless is to thank for the gs1000 diagram i am using. I will make a thread later in the week,assuming success.
Matchless has ran his for some years and Pete is also working on the same setup.
 
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