55402 Con-u-fire?

[Bobsblues54]

Since re-registering with site, (I haven't had an issue with my bike in years since the last R/R and stator failure), I been cruising the blog and discovered I might have purchased a Compu-Fire knock off. Two weeks ago I did a quick check and bought an Electro-Sport stator and what I thought was a Compu-Fire 55402 R/R as recommended by others on the site. Now that I have done a little more browsing of the forum to figure out how to wire R/R, I think I purchased a knock off, since it looks a little different, came in a plane white box, and has no instructions, and no cool decal. Does anyone know if these units are reliable, switched or shunted, and since they to appear to require wiring modifications, what those modifications are since Compu-Fires site shows connecting large hot wire directly to battery? The R/R unit looks remarkably like a unit purchased from Oregon Motorcycle parts about 10 years ago but that unit had the 4-pronged connector with separate ground pigtail. I would greatly appreciate some expert advice on this unit; if no info on reliability, wiring help would at least assure me that I haven't screwed up the install. Thanks, and stay healthy.

 

[posplayr]

If you could provide a picture and link to where you purchased the device, it would help get you an answer.

 

[Bobsblues54]

Well, after looking more closely at Amazons page, the manufacturer is "eStarpro". While I'm to computer illiterate to figure out how to copy a picture, this should be a link.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K2R5FP1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks for your response.

 

[posplayr]

I would say i have no opinion on the one you bought. It has a very similar case to the original Compufire becuase it has the widely spaced wire gland (rubber block separating the wires).

This is another even cheaper knockoff that has a closely spaced wire gland.

My guess is they are all Series R/R which is what you want and they have a much smaller footprint than the SH-775. There was a batch of cheap compu-fires with 3 phase decals that sold on ebay quickly with no reported problems, but i don't know that these were knock offs.

As far as I know nobody has reported on one of these . I have seen no negative reports but know one seems to know. The way to tell if it is a Series R/R is to measure the current through one of the stator legs using a AC clamp on current meter. They are not too expensive and a nice device to have. Something like these.

https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-A...ds=clamp+on+current+amp&qid=1588540431&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-A...ds=clamp+on+current+amp&qid=1588540497&sr=8-6


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-regulator-rectifier-for-Compu-Fire-40A-60-3337-55402-Systems-Charging/264329863803?hash=item3d8b49a27b:g:1EEAAOSwc2Bc4RvH



If the current in the stator increases when you turn off the headlamp, then it is shunt. If stator leg current decreases when headlamp is off then it is Series.

You would do a great service to the GSR to install and test yours , or even better yet send it back and buy one of the cheap $49 off of ebay and test it.

 

[Bobsblues54]

to Posplayr, wiring knock off R/R

to Posplayr, wiring knock off R/R

So it looks like the Compu-Fire as far as wiring; I cut off the connector for stator wires to install bullet connectors. Do I wire directly to positive battery terminal with suggested 40A fuse? If so do I just cap the smaller red wire that goes to ignition switch and fuse box, or somehow tie them together, (which don't seem right). Also can I just use my digital multi-meter with alligator clips to test. I also must report that my headlight is on as soon as key is on; I guess I could just unplug it. Thanks again for your input. I paid about $99 for this fine piece of Chinese crud, and since I cut off the connector, I guess I'm stuck. And I thought I was getting a deal.

 

[Cipher]

So it looks like the Compu-Fire as far as wiring; I cut off the connector for stator wires to install bullet connectors. Do I wire directly to positive battery terminal with suggested 40A fuse? If so do I just cap the smaller red wire that goes to ignition switch and fuse box, or somehow tie them together, (which don't seem right). Also can I just use my digital multi-meter with alligator clips to test. I also must report that my headlight is on as soon as key is on; I guess I could just unplug it. Thanks again for your input. I paid about $99 for this fine piece of Chinese crud, and since I cut off the connector, I guess I'm stuck. And I thought I was getting a deal.

Its shocking amazon allows this and Compufire does not protect their brand.

DO the tests as Posplayr suggested to see if its a series regulator. Just because its a knock off doesn't necessarily means its garbage.

I would have opened some dispute with amazon if I thought I was being ripped off. Theres a reason they are in hot water with the US gov and its not just trump hatin on bezos.

 

[Bobsblues54]

Thanks for all the info. I've searched the forum and I am still uncertain about wiring the 10gauge positive from this Compu-fire look alike. As I said, their site shows wiring it to the positive battery terminal; In which case, would I abandon/cap existing (14gauge?) positive from the existing 4pin R/R connector? I read in one of your threads to use existing 15A fuse in which case, would I need to somehow splice the 10gauge R/R hot to the 14gauge from the original 4pin connector? I'll do suggested test and submit feed back after it's all back together. Battery is a new sealed unit (Big Crank). Stator is also Electrosport replacement, so if this knock-off R/R is any good everything should check out as either a series or shunt. If it seems to be a shunt I guess I'll have to pony up more bucks for a real compu-fire. If series, I guess I'll take my chances and keep checking it.

CAN SOMEONE OFFER ADVICE ON THE WIRING OF THIS COMPU-FIRE KNOCK-OFF R/R?