77 GS400 more ignition point troubles

[Guest]

Hello everyone I am back for more help. Finally got the right points on and set the gap, I set the timing for the left point, but when trying to set the right one, I could not get the bulb to light up in any position. Obviously this hinders setting the timing. I did notice when putting the alligator clip on the right connection, there was some small sparking that did not occur when I put it on the left. This was done with the bike off because my continuity tester is for dead circuits. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? I'm using an old continuity tester but it worked fine for setting the timing for the left point.

 

[Grimly]

Are you adjusting the right side points by slackening the sub-plate they're mounted on? It might need the holes elongating slightly towards the points cam.
You wouldn't be the first one to curse the cack-handed design of them, I can assure you of that.

 

[Guest]

Yeah I did try messing with them by loosening the sub plate and moving up and down but still wasn't able to get them to light up. I think some more fiddling might help, will report back

 

[uk gs nut]

On the picture, your right side points look to have a fibre washer missing.

 

[Gorminrider]

Your points MUST interrupt power to the coils...simply, test that they do with probes each side-with an ohmeter (power off) with a simple 12volt "test bulb" (power on) . The way you have the insulation washers on may be the key point here...

 

[Guest]

On the picture, your right side points look to have a fibre washer missing.

Are you talking about the felt insulation thing or one of the little brown washers?

 

[uk gs nut]

One of the insulation fibre washers, the spring should not be to earth until points are closed.

 

[Rijko]

Good thing you tested with the bike off on a dead circuit, one of the very few ways the coils die
is from extended exposure to a closed/shorting contact point.
They heat up really fast ..

 

[Guest]

Yeah, I was an idiot and accidentally fried my first continuity tester about 20 seconds cause I had the bike on trying to set the left points. Quickly learned my lesson!

 

[Guest]

Your points MUST interrupt power to the coils...simply, test that they do with probes each side-with an ohmeter (power off) with a simple 12volt "test bulb" (power on) . The way you have the insulation washers on may be the key point here...

How else should I put on the insulation washers? And just to be cleas, you're talking about the felt washer right?

 

[Guest]

Alright, I tried messing around with moving the sub plate but still no dice. I am going to replace the condenser, should I just cut the old wire out and solder the new ones in? And the only solder I have is just regular electrical solder will that work alright? I did notice that on the right side wire, it looked like the solder from the brass part to the wire was not complete and I did notice some sparking from between the wire and the brass part. Should I try soldering between the two to see if that helps? Sorry if any of my observations don't make sense or I'm making some noob mistake. Thank you for your help

 

[Grimly]

Alright, I tried messing around with moving the sub plate but still no dice. I am going to replace the condenser, should I just cut the old wire out and solder the new ones in? And the only solder I have is just regular electrical solder will that work alright? I did notice that on the right side wire, it looked like the solder from the brass part to the wire was not complete and I did notice some sparking from between the wire and the brass part. Should I try soldering between the two to see if that helps? Sorry if any of my observations don't make sense or I'm making some noob mistake. Thank you for your help

Yep, if there is visible sparking between the wire and the brass terminal, it either wasn't crimped correctly or soldered right (crimping is far more common on a production part), so you could put some solder on it. Not so much that it will wick up the wire, because that will just cause more problems further down the road. Just enough to bond the wire to the brass. Such things are unfortunately quite common on third-party reproduction ignition components.
If the left points are working properly, then you likely have the washers and insulators installed correctly. Just copy the layout.

 

[Guest]

I put a bit of solder on there to connect the brass and the wire, and it did not seem to help all that much, but it did stop the sparking from between the trerminal and the wire. Right before I soldered the two, I did notice that if I stuck the alligator clips like in between the wire and the brass terminal I could get the continuity light to light a little bit. I am just gonna replace the condenser now to see if that clears things up. My condensers are soldered onto something attached to my coils so should I just take off the old solder and condensers and solder the new ones in the same place? Sorry if thats a dumb question just wanna make sure not to screw up my coils or anything.

 

[Grimly]

The condensers are just connected across the points to ground, so just make sure it's getting a good connection at the points and a good clean ground connection at the other end.

 

[Guest]

Sorry if I am being confusing, the condensers on my bike are next to the coils, not under the ignition plate. When replacing the condenser do you think I should just pry off this orange stuff(?) and resolder the new condenser wire in its place.

 

[Grimly]

Sorry if I am being confusing, the condensers on my bike are next to the coils, not under the ignition plate. When replacing the condenser do you think I should just pry off this orange stuff(?) and resolder the new condenser wire in its place.

Yeah, electrically it's the same whether the condenser is down there or up there. You could clean off the orange stuff and inspect the joint, it may be be corroded underneath, so that would be good to know about.

 

[Gorminrider]

that's so ugly...yes it'd be best to redo if it's at all loose or seperating but maybe better not to mess with it yet! I'd try just cutting the black wire and connecting your new capacitor to it first-.of course Wrap with good tape or slip heat-shrink tube on...naturally.you don't want that black wire ever touching ground when you're riding...but it's all pretty sheltered up there under the tank

 

[Guest]

I did not see your advice until AFTER I had soldered in the new condenser oops. I think I did okay, but it was only my second time soldering. Still no light with my continuity tester, so now time to test the coils. I am not gonna rule out that it could not be working cause my soldering job wasn't up to par though.

 

[Gorminrider]

Forget the coils for now. Disconnect them- can you get make-and-break across the points with your continuity light? That is the first thing to know and fix.

 

[Guest]

Do you mean clipping the wire lead of each point and putting the probe on a ground to see if it lights up? I can get make and break on the left set of points but not the right.