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78 750 single front disk

  • Thread starter Thread starter MR.G
  • Start date Start date
M

MR.G

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Hey all, have not posted in a while. Question...1978 GS750 single disk up front. Has anyone replaced the basic 3 part brake line with one single line. Ie the upper line is about 18", the lower portion is about 22" and the fitting that joins the two is about 2" (the part that mounts up under the fork brace under the head light). So a continuous brake line, I would think, would be better? Has anyone done this? If so what brand did you use? One other question, the handle bars are not stock they are allot lower, not flat but about a 3" rise, how much shorter of a brake line should you use? I don't have the original bars or I would measure the difference. Don't want to use the original line as it is way to long with these bars. Thanks to all
 
You can have them made any length you want. It will be up to you to measure, then tell them what type of banjo ends you want on them.
There are lots of different companies, BassCliff might have a list on his website list of vendors. I have even heard of some going to an eBay vendor, but the name escapes me.
But yes, there is nothing wrong with going with one long line if it floats your boat.
 
You can use a one piece but be careful about mounting it

The up and down motion of the fork can make it saw into your triple clamp
 
You need to have standoffs with rubber washers in the center to keep it in place.
 
I am just wondering why there is only one dics up front? Should have 2 on the 78 750. Is this a wire wheel or mag you have? If its a wire wheel then you have a 77 rim. That would explain why only the one dics. If you take the rim off youll see that the right side is drilled and ready for the second rotor. Youll have to get a double disc splitter, another caliper, and the hose to do the mod. And contray to popular folk lore, the master cylinder for the single will be ample for the double as well.

Click on myn avatar and go to the bottom and look at my albums for the pics of my 77 and the 78 differences.
 
I don't know. My 78 GS750 with wire wheels only have a single disc in the front. I don't think all 78s got duals.
 
Yeah wasnt think that it might not be an E model. But did your 78 single discer have wire rims or mags? Thats probably the difference. in any case he can add the second rotor as i described. Makes for better front braking having 2 available.
 
I will have to take a look at the 77 next time i am over there..but i am 99% sure it is drilled for another rotor. In any case, any rim thats already drilled and the right size can be swapped in for the addition.
 
Still, you need the proper fork bottom. If your bike's a single disc front, it's not gonna have the caliper mounting boss on the right fork bottom.
 
Should be drilled for the second rotor. The 550 I'm doing had set screws threaded into the holes. You will need both fork legs, as the brake mounting points on the single disc fork is located for the bigger brake.
 
Yeah that too..those are as plentiful as candy at the store. Caliper bodies are common place too and cover many models and years.
 
If I am remebering right Tom, theres a big black steel cover plate over the right side on my 77.
 
Probably plastic? Under that will be the threaded in screws. Remove those and the disc bolts right on.


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Yes Tom, that rings a bell. Has the three knobs that snap it into the rotor holes that are predrilled on the right side. Protector shield i guess you would call it.
 
Hmm, I'll have to go back and look. I just polished up my right side lower and am almost certain there were bosses for the fender mount and nothing else.
 
All the GS wheels I've ever had, single disc or not, have been drilled for dual disc applications. Yes, it's under the plastic cover.
The dual discs are smaller than the single disc (which incidentally is the same size as a rear disc on most of the early bikes) but the difference in stopping power is only marginal. That bigger disc and puck padded caliper actually do quite a darn good job if they're bled correctly and you use a stainless line on it.
I was actually surprised that many of the single disc 750s I've had stopped as good or better than their dual disc and later model counterparts.

What's more, the single disc saves some unsprung weight over the dual.
However, if you're wanting to change to dual disc for whatever reason, I have a couple of sets of forks for sale in a thread that are an upgrade to your stock fork. Besides being dual disc forks, they're 37mm instead of the 750s 35mm, and one of the sets has anti-dive system in it as well and is a bit more adjustable for pre-load than the earlier model forks were.
 
Besides being dual disc forks, they're 37mm instead of the 750s 35mm, and one of the sets has anti-dive system in it as well and is a bit more adjustable for pre-load than the earlier model forks were.

Not to hijack too much here but what is the advantage of a 37mm fork over a 35mm Josh?
 
Not to hijack too much here but what is the advantage of a 37mm fork over a 35mm Josh?

More rigid, in GS days it was the heavier bikes which got the bigger stronger fork tubes. You wouldn't really notice unless you were riding very hard, or on rough broken surfaces. All of the newer bikes have gone to much thicker fork tubes, just as they have gone to more rigid frames. Same idea, better handling is the end result.
 
Not to hijack too much here but what is the advantage of a 37mm fork over a 35mm Josh?

Assuming the wall thickness is the same ratio, the simplest benefit is rigidity.
A bigger/thicker fork is going to have more resistance to flex under lateral load.
How much benifit a two mm step up is, I don't know for sure. One of our resident engineers might be able to say. But it was apparently large enough that Suzuki deemed it worthy of fixing their larger, and flagship models with 37mm vs 35mm forks. The other benefit nowadays is that since so many of the popular UJM models used a 37mm fork there are plenty of companies offering upgrade components for these forks and internals. Cartridge emulators for both rebound and compression damping are available for many bikes (I'm not sure that there are compression valves available for ours yet or not) through various manufacturers (which is nice because up until recently only Race-Tech offered emulators and they're somewhat expensive. Now there are a few companies, likely Chinese or assembled in china, that offer cheaper and as effective alternatives). For the street-fighter/cafe racer crowd there are now clip-on bars (actually quite nice ones) being produced where before they were pretty much only doing stuff for 41mm forks and larger. Fork braces, headlamps and headlamp ears etc etc are now being made for this generation of bikes. Likely because the whole cafe thing and this era of bikes has caught fire in recent years where before they were just "old nap bikes" leaning against a wall in someone's garage.

However, the OD of the fork doesn't always equate to being better.
Some of the bikes of the generations after our GSes actually had "softer" forks than what we have because although the outside diameter of the fork was larger, the wall thickness was no greater. Some of the last gen KZs (for instance the KZ1000ST, and 1100ST, their answer to the GS-G models) had at the time "Huge 41mm forks" but they were actually somewhat flimsy. The KZ, being shorter coupled than most GSes, often suffered from "head shake" when putting to spurs to her driving out of an apex. This was caused by both the flexible fork, and the more upright angle of the fork (compared to a GS, which had a longer wheelbase and were in comparison rock solid stable at high speed and quite good at driving out of the corner under heavy acceleration, one of the many reasons that the GSes often won the cycle rag shoot-outs vs Kawasaki. Even though most times the KZ had more peak HP, the GSes tractability made more of its horsepower available in real world situations instead of simple top speed runs)

Anyway, basically the 37mm fork was a better option at the time. Which is why after 1981 models, nearly every GS model 750cc and larger came fitted with them vs 35mm that the 750s and smaller bikes of earlier years were equipped with.

The 82 750 had not only 37mm forks, but also came equipped with the Suzuki Anti-Dive mechanism that the mighty GS1100E, and then the 83 and on GS550, 3rd Gen 750 and 1150s had.

Some people don't like it, some do. I will say when the system is clean, it works quite well, but because the anti dive valves were operated by the brake fluid and were part of the brake system, once the fluid and valves became compromised and dirty, the anti-dive either didn't work well, or (and my personal major complaint about it) became inconsistent. Sometimes it would prevent fork dive on hard braking, sometimes it would not. And myself, I would prefer to know what it's going to do every time. I can deal with the dive, if I know it's going to happen. But when it sometimes happened and sometimes didn't it became more an annoyance than an aid. Many people installed block off plates or simply placed a bolt on the anti-dive valves to cap them off while removing them from the brake system. Many people also complained that the set up caused a "mushy" lever feel that no matter how hard one tried, could not be bled out.
 
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