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79 gs 850

  • Thread starter Thread starter ford_raccoon
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ford_raccoon

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Hi all Im new to the site and have a few questions. Ok here it goes, I have a 79 gs850 That I cant seem to get running properly. I have pulled and cleaned the carbs put new intake boots. Runs but has a hard time starting when cold and doesnt like to idle properly. The screws on the side and the bottom of the carb are all out of adjustment so I really need a baseline start. And Im about to pull the plugs and check the points. Any pointers would be very helpful.
 
New Points and plugs for sure!
Also, we need to know what type exhaust and filters you're using?
 
Screws on the bottom (pilot fuel screws) should be about 3/4 - 7/8 of one turn and the screws on top (pilot air acrews) about 1.5 turns. This assumes a stock bike and airbox sealed with good foam (use weatherstrip foam to replace deteriorated foam as needed). You will also have to vacuum sync the carbs when it's all back together, use a clean/oiled air filter, and adjust the valves since MANY people neglect this critical detail. It's not even worth the effort of trying to start the bike until this stuff is all done. Oh, and I hope you tore down the carbs, soaked them in carb dip, and replaced all the various O-rings with a kit from cycleorings.com or similar. Removing the float bowl and hitting he carbs with spray cleaner won't get it done unless the carbs are basically clean to begin with.

Hope this helps and good luck.
 
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Removing the float bowl and hitting he carbs with spray cleaner won't get it done unless the carbs are basically clean to begin with.
The quick spray might "clean" the bowl area, but still does nothing to rejuvenate the o-rings in the carbs.
It's still best to take the carbs completely apart for cleaning, even if all you do is replace the o-rings.

.
 
The quick spray might "clean" the bowl area, but still does nothing to rejuvenate the o-rings in the carbs.
It's still best to take the carbs completely apart for cleaning, even if all you do is replace the o-rings.

.


Amen brother!
Aint no point in removing the carbs if ya aint gonna remove every single removable part, soak, replace o-rings.

Doing a set myslef right now..
 
The carbs have been recently rebuilt the inside was like new pulled the main and the pilot jets, they were clean with new orings in it. I thought these carbs are not the vacume type as they are mechanical type. Plugs are new. Points are adjust properly and contacts are sanded down. I dont know what else it could be the motor seems strong just wont idle properly and is really frusterating. Oh and Im not running any air box.
 
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Knowledge is power, and this is the place to empower yourself.:)

Start by using the search function and read though all the common GS issues, such as the fact that the bike will NOT run properly without the airbox and how important it is to adjust the valves and do all the basic maintence. Don't be frustrated, it's a 31 year old vehicle. Fix the things that need tending to and it will reward the efforts.
 
It'll run like crap with no airbox.
 
A couple of things I did with mine that improved that crappy idle was to check exhaust for any leaks (head, pipe connections, and if the baffles are no good get a new exhuast system) and cleaned every ground and all connectors on the bike. You've got lots of good advice so far. It's always nice to fix just one thing and have the bike run great but with these old things it seems sometimes it's just better to do it all at once. I'm guessing this bike is new to you? just curious as to how it was running before, is this a new problem or did it come this way?
 
My exhaust is like new still there is no rust holes and the chrome is even in good shape. I haven't done a valve job yet but I'm thinking that more than likely it is my problem. I sanded and adjusted my points but did not start the engine as it was late but that is what i am going to do when I get out of work tomorrow.
 
I would adjust the valves before spending anymore time on the carbs. Once you know the valves are adjusted then tackle the carbs and other electrical issues.
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. ford_raccoon,

You'll find lots of GS850 lovin' on my website. Let me say "Howdy!" and give you some information to get you settled in.... :D

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Thats the problem!

not necessarily he has VM carbs and they are more forgiving to no airbox
i at least hope that he is using pods
he will have to rejet for sure with no airbox but it's not that big of a deal
it will take some time to get it dialed in but they always do
he should be ok with the stock pilot jets but will most likely have to raise the needles and perhaps go one bigger on the mains
plug chops will tell him what he needs to do

to get it to idle properly he will need to tweak the pilot fuel and the pilot air screws to richen it up for the lack of an airbox and read the plugs
you all know how this goes
1 make a change ride it read the plugs
2 make a change ride it read the plugs
repeat this process until you get it right
remember to only make one change at a time otherwise you don't know where your going wrong or right
 
I think that I have found my problem.... My intake valves are too tight when I twist the throttle fuel mist comes out of the carbs which indicates that the intakes valves aren't closing all the way so I need to adjust them accordingly. Thanks for all the help everyone this is a great forum.
 
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