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79GS1000 timing question

  • Thread starter Thread starter RobertGS
  • Start date Start date
R

RobertGS

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Setting timing on my 79gs1000.

Have a question and just confirming I'm doing it right.

First I set the F14 mark to line up exactly. Then with a continuity light from the negative battery terminal to the moving point I rotated the plate until it just flickered out.
The set the F23 mark. With continuity light to moving point of 2,3 points. And adjusted the 23 plate until the light just flickers out.

Question I have is that the 2/3 plate needs to be moved completely to one extreme...like right to the end and with pressure applied, before the light flickers out.

This worries me and I wonder what it means, if anything.
 
Yes I set the gaps to .35 and the points seem clean and the proper shape and lined up (as far as I can tell not having seen many...). Looked at the pictures in the manual and I think they look good.
 
I believe the spec for points gap is .35mm, you're not using inches are you?

If you did it right hit it with a timing light and see what it does.
 
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Best is to set the gap on 1-4 first, time it in as you describe then gap 2-3 and time that set in. Very often as you slacken/tighten the plate screws the whole plate moves enough to change the gap so you have to be careful and watch for that.
 
Hi yes .35mm is what I set the points gap to.

So no one's run across the 2/3 plate needing to move all the way to one extreme? (in this case pushed in the clockwise direction as far as it will go)

Is it generally in the middle of the range somewhere?
 
Robert

extreme plate setting are usually a sign that you've used the T mark rather than the F mark when setting the ignition timing
 
I agree that would do it, but I've used the "middle marks, right beside the "F".
 
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So Big T, what I'm hearing you say is that it doesn't seem right that the 2/3 plate should need to go right to the end to set the timing. Any other ideas?
When I had the valve cover off I confirmed that the cam chain was installed with the timing marks in the proper place, and with the right number of links between the two sprockets.

P.S. Looks like I just became a "senior member"??? Wow that must be a programming glitch. Feel like I know close to ziltch so far, but I guess more than I did last year.
 
I pulled out the ATU to have a look at it. Thought maybe one side was stuck open and that was affecting the static timing setup. It looked fine.

So I'm just going to go with this timing for now and keep the plate setting issue in the back of my mind. It does seem timed properly, however there is zero room for additional adjustment on the 2/3 plate.

I suppose if she runs good... Still bugging me though. I don't like not understanding something.
 
Hi Sorry I missed this response. I'm not sure what you mean by the fibre heel but I'll check it out. Thanks.
 
Good morning. My 78 gs1000 timing is the same way. When it had points there wasn't any adjustment left. Now with the dyna-s it's the same. Futhermore I installed a dyna-s on a buddies 83 gs1100 same thing. Both bikes run great. The timing on mine hasn't changed in 8000 miles. I check it yearly. So in my opinion just ride it.
 
uk gs nut, I see what you mean now. I'm looking at a picture of the unit. Not at home now so will have another look later.


Mark, good to know I'm not the only one whose had this issue. Next time I pull the valve cover off I'll triple check the cams/chain installation for proper timing. Mainly whether the link count is exactly as it should be from one to the other. I've checked it, but heard others say they've slipped up on the count so I'll have another look . After that I'm running out of ideas anyway so I won't let it stop me riding.
 
Robert. Btw I forgot to mention that I've actually have had two engines on my bike and the timing plate was/is the same. My current engine I purchased off ebay but was built buy a reputable shop in Tennessee. So I think you'll find that your chain count on the cam will be Correct.
 
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