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'80 1000g rear axel STUCK

  • Thread starter Thread starter rpickle
  • Start date Start date
R

rpickle

Guest
Howdy folks. Bought new tires and in the process of removing the wheels. Have the rear brake caliper removed (to rebuild) along with all other associated hardware. Axel will not push out. Bike is on the center stand, front wheel off and a the rear tire is supported and raised enough that the axel is above the mufflers. Soaked in PB Blaster more than 24 hours, banged on it with a 2lb sledge and a piece of 2x4. Didn't budge.....

Any ideas?:confused:

Appreciate it.


Rick
 
If the splines were frozen, the axle wouldn't seperate from the swingarm.

You might want to pull the boot at the front and remove those bolts. From there you may be able to rig up some sort of puller or take it somewhere. It'll probably be a pain.
 
Ugh.... What would cause that? Any other way to tell if that is the problem?

Rick
 
rpickle said:
Howdy folks. Bought new tires and in the process of removing the wheels. Have the rear brake caliper removed (to rebuild) along with all other associated hardware. Axel will not push out. Bike is on the center stand, front wheel off and a the rear tire is supported and raised enough that the axel is above the mufflers. Soaked in PB Blaster more than 24 hours, banged on it with a 2lb sledge and a piece of 2x4. Didn't budge.....

Any ideas?:confused:

Appreciate it.


Rick
Click to expand...
Did you loosen and remove the axle pinch bolt on the brake side of the rear wheel?
If you haven't removed the cotter pin and axle nut on the shaft side, you might try using a wrench on the axle nut and turn it back and forth in place while someone else pounds on the other end with a round peg to push it out.
If the bike was working ok before I don't think you have a problem with the splines. I think mine took a little persuasion before sliding out.
 
Also, you say you have the rear tire supported so the axle it above the mufflers. Are the shocks still attached? Either way, there might be enough pressure on the axle to prevent removal. Make sure the pinch bolts are loosened and there is not tension on the axle, then try banging it out again. Be careful that you don't hit the threads on the end of the bolt, though. :shock:


.
 
spchips said:
If the splines were frozen, the axle wouldn't seperate from the swingarm.

You might want to pull the boot at the front and remove those bolts. From there you may be able to rig up some sort of puller or take it somewhere. It'll probably be a pain.
Click to expand...

I've been trying to make sense of this comment... Splines don't have anything to do with the axle. Were you thinking of the driveshaft? :confused:



Anyway, assuming the pinch bolt is loose and all, put the axle nut on backwards (so the ridges don't get harmed) and screw it on until it's even with the end of the axle. This will help keep the threads from getting boogered up, and if they do get a little boogered, removing the nut and working it back and forth will help clean them up.

Hide the small children, remove any pets, and light a candle to the patron saint of corrosion. Then use a Very Large Punch and give it an almighty, thunderous whack with the hammer. You're not going to do any good with that 2X4 -- the wood absorbs too much of the impact.

Once it's out, I'd replace the wheel bearings if I were you, too. You'll need 2 standard 6303 2RS bearings, available just about anywhere.
 
Thanks folks.

I was laying in bed last night thinking about how the splines interacted with the axel. By the diagram, it also did not make sense to me either.

The bike was in the middle of some kind of restoration, so I am unaware of any rearend trouble.

There should only be the one pinch bolt, I hope. It was on the right side under the brake caliper.

The shocks are removed. The swingarm is pinned. Having the wheel up is the only way I can get a swing. Well, other than removing the exhaust. I'd like to avoid that.

Mr. Winger, your advice on clearing the women and children from the immediate area is right on the money. I have gained an unfortunate label from working on equipement that "doesn't want to cooperate"! :oops:

I have also followed and valued your opinion on tires. I picked up a set of HiMAx. As soon as I get the axel out, I can get them mounted. Yee-ha!

Also, good idea on the wheel bearings (thanks for the part numbers!\\:D/). Should I go ahead and replace the front wheel bearings as well?

Well, hope to give an another whack at it tonight.

Thanks again.

Rick
 
bwringer said:
I've been trying to make sense of this comment... Splines don't have anything to do with the axle. Were you thinking of the driveshaft? :confused:
Click to expand...


Sorry, yeah I created the confusion. I was interpreting it as the BIG axle, from where the driveshaft hits the ring/pinion to the wheel, like in a car. Looking back the axle being the rod makes a whole lot more sense.

I have had these stick, and you just need the right size punch (to protect the threads) and a severe beating. I don't know if I ran into it on this, but I know on other things if you beat the area around the cotter pin holes too much they can start to expand. leaving the nut on and backwards helps with this when you are getting it started.
 
Woo-who! She broke free! I think the PB finally worked in.

Thanks for the support.

One more question:) Do I need to take the disks off of the wheels for the bike shop to mount the tires?

Thanks again

Rick
 
Nice work!

Nice work!

rpickle said:
One more question:) Do I need to take the disks off of the wheels for the bike shop to mount the tires?
Click to expand...

Mr. rpickle,

The shop that mounts my tires does not require the removal of the rotors. While they are removable, they are part of the assembly that needs to be balanced.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Put a light coat of grease on the axel when you reinstall it. I had the same problem with a 77GS750. Ended up damaging the axel threads from hitting it so much, I use my 5 lb hammer. (I had a spare axel)
 
Balancing act

Balancing act

rpickle said:
Appreciate it Basscliff. Also, your webpage is pretty cool.

Rick
Click to expand...

Thanks Mr. rpickle! It's kind of a community effort. I'm just the "hunter/gatherer".

Oh, here's what I looked like last summer when I got my tires mounted.

newtires1.jpg


I took off my wheels the night before and had the tires mounted the next morning. Jessie spent the whole night precariously balanced. Now I've got an extra set of wheels. I can have new tires mounted ahead of time. I learned that trick from Mr. dpep. :-D

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Put a light coat of grease on the axel when you reinstall it. I had the same problem with a 77GS750. Ended up damaging the axel threads from hitting it so much, I use my 5 lb hammer. (I had a spare axel)
Click to expand...
Me too :oops: And +1 on the spare axle :)
 
Well, I have the luxury of a whole spare bike. But I'm a little weird with it, I'd like to keep the spare as intact as possible.... I ask myself though, "whats the point"?

Appreciate the advise.


Rick
 
Axel was a dark reddish-brown. Will clean it up real well and grease it before reinstall.

Have to pick up the Moly 60 stuff too. Splines all seemed to look just fine.


Rick
 
rpickle said:
Have to pick up the Moly 60 stuff too. Splines all seemed to look just fine.


Rick
Click to expand...

Only place I found Moly 60 is at the local Honda bike dealership and it was $10 for a small tube. You don't have to use too much, just lightly coat both wheel and differential sides and try to get all of the spline teeth. I use my kid's old toothbrushes for this job. Still enough to last a lifetime unless you do dozens of shafties a year!
 
Sounds like I need to ask one of you folks that has a huge tube of the Molly 60 to sqeeze some in a double ziplock and mail it to me.....

Aw, geez, may as well get my own aye!

Thanks Rick
 
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