'80 GS1000G Rear suspension?

[free99]

Hello everyone, I'm shopping for parts to replace on my 80 1000G restomod.

I found these as possible new rear shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/320mm-12-5-Motorcycle-Rear-Shock-Absorbers-Suspension-for-Honda-Yamaha-US-Ship/164364536019

I don't know if all the technical details that are spec'd in the listing are correct, as it seems the PO installed some EMGO garbage on the rear, so I cannot do a direct measurement comparison.

Could someone let me know if that listing looks ok? Thank you!

 

[joe penoso]

I think that's a chinese shock. If for no reason but it's cheap. SPECS SOUND GOOD BUT i HAVE NO IDEA IF THE SHOCKS WILL BE ANY GOOD. IF YOU DECIDE TO BUY IT MAKE SURE TO TELL US HOW WELL THEY WORK;
JOEPENOSO

 

[RichDesmond]

Hello everyone, I'm shopping for parts to replace on my 80 1000G restomod.

I found these as possible new rear shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/320mm-12-5-Motorcycle-Rear-Shock-Absorbers-Suspension-for-Honda-Yamaha-US-Ship/164364536019

I don't know if all the technical details that are spec'd in the listing are correct, as it seems the PO installed some EMGO garbage on the rear, so I cannot do a direct measurement comparison.

Could someone let me know if that listing looks ok? Thank you!

Really good shocks cost north of $800 a set. Decent ones are least half that. Look at the price of the one’s you linked to and draw your own conclusions.

 

[steve murdoch]

You would be better off looking through the Hagon site.
http://www.hagonshocksusa.com/

Another spot to check is Ikon.
https://www.ikonshocksusa.com/

You should be able to find something decent in the $2-300 range.

 

[Steve]

Even Progressive shocks tend to be "respectable".

Hagon and Progressive are available from Z1 Enterprises. Not sure about Ikon sources.

One disadvantage of these three is the general lack of damping adjustments. By the time you get shocks with adjustable damping, you are well into that "half" territory that Rich mentioned.

.

 

[bwringer]

The fleaBay shocks are also 1/2" shorter than needed. GS shafties should have shocks that are 13" (330mm) eye to eye.

There's an outside chance the shocks might be fantastic, but they're almost certainly garbage. If you'd like to gamble some money and then report back, we'll be happy to hear what you find out.

But honestly, I'd just scrape together more pfennigs, rupees, drachmas, and rubles and pony up for a set of Progressive or Hagon shocks. Obviously you can spend a lot more and get a lot more, but that's about the minimum for a safe, good-handling bike.

 

[free99]

Thanks for the advice fellas. I got a pair of 330mm shocks which offers preload and rebound adjustment. I'm going to have a local suspension place check the pressure and stuff just to get a professional review, but they look pretty sweet. I'll post more about them if they seem good.

Having an issue though: previous owner not only removed the thread for the top suspension mounting post, subsequently threaded it with an SAE 1/4-20 bolt. And, it's got a bunch of seriously deep gouges, see links.

Can I fill the gouges with epoxy and then file the epoxy level with the metal surrounds? I don't have a welder to put on a new head-less shoulder bolt, even though long-term that's what I'll do. Just want to prevent the grease from squeezing out of the space between shock bushing and the post for now.

 

[bwringer]

Those gouges won't hurt a thing. Heck, they could even serve to hold a little extra grease. Just make sure the edges aren't too sharp; they look OK from here.

That's a semi-janky "repair" (I hate it when people put inch stuff on a metric bike), but it should work OK. There's no force pushing the shock sideways off the post.

 

[free99]

Edges were super sharp, after sanding them down I went through with the epoxy-fill, the new shocks slipped on nicely. Not happy about the SAE on a metric bike, but not going to re-tap an already weakened post :chargrined:

Keep on keepin' on, folks.

 

[bwringer]

FWIW, you can also make a very skookum shock post repair without welding using a metric shoulder bolt.

I don't remember the exact length, but one o' these guys:
https://www.mcmaster.com/shoulder-bolts/=3b002b360c1243d5a35adbad29bbe6c0khklq8c3

Cut off the post, center punch and drill a slightly undersize hole all the way through, and tap the shoulder bolt through from the inside.

If you do have access to a welder, you can add a few beads and cut off the head on the inside of the frame.


In your case, I think what you have will be good enough. But if that 1/4" bolt ever really begins to bother you, there is a way out...