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'80 GS1100E rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter cavehamster
  • Start date Start date
rapidray said:
Actually, 1166 is as big as you can go on a stock 1100 block but if you get an 1150 block, the same 3mm overbore will be a 1229!!! Ray.
Click to expand...


Yeah.... let's stick with the 1166 for now. I think I'll make this work in the budget. It's only money, right?

I now understand my friend's saying, who races his Mustang: 'Drag racing makes a heroin addiction look like a distant longing for something salty...'

No more tear down tonight, I'm making up some homebrew beer instead. Besides, the longer I take to tear it apart at this point, the longer I can put off buying parts, right? hehe.

Thanks again for the advice, it is much appreciated.
 
rapidray said:
Actually, 1166 is as big as you can go on a stock 1100 block but if you get an 1150 block, the same 3mm overbore will be a 1229!!! Ray.
Click to expand...
I'm swapping out for an 1150 crank also.
Who makes 77mm pistons with an 18mm wristpin?
 
blowerbike said:
seeing how a pattern is developing here.....
i need to get in on some of this action :-\\\
Click to expand...
Shoot, I have two pistons bought kinda from you. I'll just sell these since I won't be using them on an 1166. ;)
 
For the oil pump gear, I need one out of a 750E, right? I see the stock gear is a 33 tooth and the 750 is a 29 tooth, part number 16331-45000. Is there anything else that is needed to swap this over? Something I need to do to make sure it meshes with the drive gear?

Thanks.
 
i prefer the 77-79 GS750 oil pump gears..E/L/X/Y/Z ect..
dont matter.
the 80-82 750 pump gears will work also.
i always got 50 bucks for a set of the gears/ good bad or otherwise.
should be some used ones around here somewhere....
here as in GS resources.
 
So, talking to a friend today at lunch (the Mustang racer guy), he asked if I shouldn't consider the 13.5:1 1168 kit vs the 10.25:1 kit. Thoughts? I am certainly going to drag race the snot out of the bike, but I would like for it to be streetable too.

Been too busy at work upgrading computers (don't you love small companies where you are the sysadmin too?) to get home at a reasonable time to finish tearing down the engine, but I plan on blowing off Friday afternoon to work on it. The manual says I don't need to remove the rotor and starter clutch assembly to get the crank out, is there any reason the machine shop would want it off so they can weld the crank? It looks like it is a chore to get it off.
 
cavehamster said:
So, talking to a friend today at lunch (the Mustang racer guy), he asked if I shouldn't consider the 13.5:1 1168 kit vs the 10.25:1 kit. Thoughts? I am certainly going to drag race the snot out of the bike, but I would like for it to be streetable too.

Been too busy at work upgrading computers (don't you love small companies where you are the sysadmin too?) to get home at a reasonable time to finish tearing down the engine, but I plan on blowing off Friday afternoon to work on it. The manual says I don't need to remove the rotor and starter clutch assembly to get the crank out, is there any reason the machine shop would want it off so they can weld the crank? It looks like it is a chore to get it off.
Click to expand...
You'll need race gas to run on the street with high compression pistons.
Posplayr and I put an 1166 kit in his ED and I rode it the other day. It was a wheelie monster with gobs of low end and top end. Cams degreed 105/107 with WebCam .340s. I was jealous.
 
chef1366 said:
You'll need race gas to run on the street with high compression pistons.
Posplayr and I put an 1166 kit in his ED and I rode it the other day. It was a wheelie monster with gobs of low end and top end. Cams degreed 105/107 with WebCam .340s. I was jealous.
Click to expand...

move those numbers up 2-3 maybe 4 degree's on both cams and a person may just be even more shocked:evil:
note:
*with more than a stock head*
*some bottom end loss*
*still pulling hard when it hits the rev limiter @10,500*
*this will works for semi big-boys*
 
blowerbike said:
move those numbers up 2-3 maybe 4 degree's on both cams and a person may just be even more shocked:evil:
note:
*with more than a stock head*
*some bottom end loss*
*still pulling hard when it hits the rev limiter @10,500*
*this will works for semi big-boys*
Click to expand...
I had mine 110/110 and it was a cannon at around 6000. But :cry: that was a thing of the past.
I'm going to degree my 1230 more on the 105/107 for the great bottom end. Good for canyon carving.
 
Minor progress. Finished taking the engine apart. Didn't find anything else amiss in there outside of that oil pump bolt. Must have been loose for a while, the head of the bolt is pretty well chewed. The crank doesn't appear twisted, I did roughly measure it before removing the heads. A local machine shop here says they can weld it, I'll see if they still say that when I show up with it, haha.



The oil pump has some minor scoring on its face and the side cover. I have not measured it out just yet to verify it is within spec.



Transmission looked just fine



Had a bit of gunk inside in the oil pan and etc, probably pretty normal for sitting for 15 years. I plan to get the oil gallery plugs out and take the block out to be hot tanked while I am working on the crank and saving for the 1166 kit, and then pull a posplyr and paint the whole thing, hehe. I really like that black with polished fin tips look.

What should I use to seal the crank case halves? Obviously whatever I use, I should only use a little of it.

I'm also now looking for some throttle bodies I can make fit this engine, and getting my schematics into software for the MegaSquirt so I can make a custom board to fit on the bike. I suppose I could get a MicroSquirt, but their stuff is based off the v2.2 board, and I'd prefer to go to the v3 design. Whatever I end up with, I'll be posting my design for anyone else that wants to use or modify it.
 
For sealing the case halves, from a Suzuki dealer, Threebond 1207B is what I use(& the shop manual calls for) & I've never had a leak or issue with it yet. Ray.
 
chef1366 said:
The guy on the ZX-14 should be in the low to mid nines stock. You looked more experienced than he did.
Click to expand...

Dude.. I weight 295 lbs suited and we are racing at 4200 ft elevation with what has to be the worst prepped track in the US. 155 lb dude I race out there, also on a zx-14, only running in the 9.85. Drag racing motorcycles is hard and everyone's got a damn opinion, don't they? Tell ya what chef1366, bring your best game out to that track and let's see what you can do. :p

Worst track: (Yeah.. the first 100 ft or so is uphill!)
wendover%20_track.jpg


Not to take away from Steve or anything... he is doing a great job on that GS and he will be a force to recon with soon enough.


oh.. BTW chef1366, I know I suck. I run what I run. Bet I can still beat you tho. ;)
 
Last edited:
motoCYCHO said:
Dude.. I weight 295 lbs suited and we are racing at 4200 ft elevation with what has to be the worst prepped track in the US. 155 lb dude I race out there, also on a zx-14, only running in the 9.85. Drag racing motorcycles is hard and everyone's got a damn opinion, don't they? Tell ya what chef1366, bring your best game out to that track and let's see what you can do. :p

Worst track: (Yeah.. the first 100 ft or so is uphill!)
wendover%20_track.jpg


Not to take away from Steve or anything... he is doing a great job on that GS and he will be a force to recon with soon enough.


oh.. BTW chef1366, I know I suck. I run what I run. Bet I can still beat you tho. ;)
Click to expand...

Man, don't I look like a goof in this photo. At least I tucked in, I was forgetting to do that until half track for a good while there.

Makes me miss drag racing season *sniff*
 
I'm building a motor as we speak so I'll take you up on that offer. :D
I weigh the same as you do so it will be a better match.
 
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