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'80 gs450 clutch pushrod seal NOT retainer plate

  • Thread starter Thread starter howling60
  • Start date Start date
H

howling60

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ok... my good gs450 ('80 E) needs a new clutch pushrod seal... that one, has the "flanged" seal... it's looking to me like i need to tear down the ENTIRE lower half of the engine to replace this one seal?!?!?! seriously!?

the parts engine i have, has the retainer-plate style of seal... which can obviously be replaced by just pulling the plate...

So, anyone have any suggestions? it appears as though to remove the flange seal, the crankcase needs to be split...

ANY help, insight, ideas, etc would be GREAT here.

Thanks!

-Nate
 
I am fairly sure you don't need to remove much more than the countershaft sprocket cover to replace this seal. I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure I replaced this seal on one of mine and I've never split either of the cases.
 
howling60 said:
ok... my good gs450 ('80 E) needs a new clutch pushrod seal... that one, has the "flanged" seal... it's looking to me like i need to tear down the ENTIRE lower half of the engine to replace this one seal?!?!?! seriously!?

the parts engine i have, has the retainer-plate style of seal... which can obviously be replaced by just pulling the plate...

So, anyone have any suggestions? it appears as though to remove the flange seal, the crankcase needs to be split...

ANY help, insight, ideas, etc would be GREAT here.

Thanks!

-Nate
Click to expand...

Nate, that's a real good question. Mine's the type with the retainer plate and the two part pushrod, so it would be relatively straight forward for me to do it with the cases together by simply removing the retainer plate and the left part of the pushrod.

In theory, I would imagine you should be able to pull the pushrod out then get the seal out, but that's a bit of a guess as I've never seen the flange type of seal myself.

The Clymer manual mentions both types (calls them lipped and non-lipped), but doesn't actually say whether they can both be replaced with the cases together.

I'm not sure how much that will help you though...
 
Actually, if your engine number is 162953 or higher, then you should definitely have the two part pushrod, meaning you can definitely withdraw the left part through the oil seal.
 
Yeah... i've already pulled apart the right case, pulled the clutch apart, removed the pushrod (1 part)... attempted removal of the seal.. go figure, shear stubborness did NOT work for me... just ripped the seal up completely... boooo.

i will get some pictures of it tonight... REALLY don't want to have to rip apart the entire engine just to replace a seal.

I will most likely add JBweld/etc... so that i can bolt a retainer plate onto the engine case, and make use of the other seal type (ordered both, just in case)...

Either way, I will post up pictures

-Nate
 
Good call on the pic's, and my guess is you can probably just get a retainer plate to go with the retainer type seal. The flange type seal sounds like a real PITA to me for sure.

There are only two bolts that hold the retainer on and I would imagine your crankcases would already have the bolt holes ready to go:

 
pete said:
Good call on the pic's, and my guess is you can probably just get a retainer plate to go with the retainer type seal. The flange type seal sounds like a real PITA to me for sure.

There are only two bolts that hold the retainer on and I would imagine your crankcases would already have the bolt holes ready to go:

Click to expand...

unfortunately, the flange-seal CC... does NOT have any bolt holes setup for a retainer plate :(... i am going to need to either braze on some mounting lugs, or dig out the 'ol JB weld... :(

I ended up conceeding to the lure of beer last night and didnt' touch the bike, so no pics yet :P

I will certainly update with pics and solutions as soon as i figure something out

-Nate
 
Really!? Bugger!

See I saw on the fiche that the second type of plate (23) had two holes so figured it would line up... obviously that's not the case...

07.gif


Surely there has to be a way to get a flange type seal in there without separating the cases, otherwise that would be just plain insane!
 
pete said:
Really!? Bugger!

See I saw on the fiche that the second type of plate (23) had two holes so figured it would line up... obviously that's not the case...



Surely there has to be a way to get a flange type seal in there without separating the cases, otherwise that would be just plain insane!
Click to expand...

yeah, near as i can tell, the mainshaft itself prevents me from pushing the seal backwards enough to "wiggle" it free... what a pain... all i can say is... good job suzuki... you're dumb :P

-Nate
 
Yeah that wasn't real smart, probably why they changed it later on... :oops:
 
So I promised pictures of what i've had to deal with... problem is... i have no idea where i put my camera after taking the pictures! So, I will get 'em up here sooner or later, i swear!

I will include my pictures of my solution as well! :)
 
i replaced mine last winter what a nightmare! I thought it was non flanged because it had a retainer on it well guess what it had a flanged seal and a retainer. I had to split cases just to get old seal out. All and all it was an easy job just a pain in butt and took alot longer didn't help it was in a non heated garage and temp fell below freezing entire time i was working on it! Ray
 
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