81' GS 450t starting and idling issues.

[Mr Rogers]

oh and one more thing i'm wondering..

Say my petcock is totally fine (other than obvious human error...)

do i need to do any sort of treatment to my engine in order to rid the rest of the gasoline out?

I drained it really well and even poured more oil through before adding the filter and new oil.

 

[apopleptic]

I think the test of the petcock is that when it is on any setting except prime no fuel should flow from it without vacuum.
I tested mine by taking the tank off and letting it sit for two days and seeing if any leaked.
I had a few drops come out in the very beginning and then no more fuel came out unless the vacuum line is drawn on. don't suck the vacuum line with your mouth since if the petcock has failed you can suck in gasoline which doesn't taste very good.
Good Luck!

 

[Mr Rogers]

buying these tonight, need to make sure its right.

buying these tonight, need to make sure its right.

You can get both the intake manifolds and the carb/airbox boots at Boulevard: number 5 in the airbox fiche picture. The intake boots are under cylinder head in the fiche lookup, part 27.

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fich...y=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1980&fveh=2093

They don't have a fiche for the 450t so I am assuming the mechanicals are the same as the e/s in those years. Anyone have any insight on possible differences with the 450t?

So when i look at the diagram i see #5 and in the description below it says RH. then the #4 (or #6) has an almost the same but LH is it true that there are right and left specified rubber boots here?

I'm trying to get these her by monday so i can get the bike up and running before it's too cold.

 

[apopleptic]

LH and RH are different parts. I just picked them both up. Slightly different notch in the rubber. The LH one was already in the airbox and I don't want to fight with getting it out.

In 1982 'T' was a trim level. from late 79 until early 81 I think 'T' was a production run.

Look on the steering stem for your production date.
if it is 80 or 81 you have an 'L' trim model of the 'T' model year production run.
if you have and 82 it is a 'T' trim of the 'X' model year production run.
Alternately look up your serial number to fund out.
I kept getting conflicting info the first 6 months I had the bike. People kept telling me it is an 'E' or a 'T' Turns out I have an 'S' made in 12/79 which makes it an 'ST'
It's in your best interest to figure out exactly which bike you have. There is a lot of parts commonality, but still better safe than sorry.

 

[Mr Rogers]

Thanks a lot!

looking at these diagrams and choosing the number always seems a little difficult considering the fact that there are so many bikes by suzuki in my year alone.

I'll check it out

 

[Mr Rogers]

And it looks like it's actually an LT made in 1980 distributed in 81.

Thats cool to know!

 

[apopleptic]

And it looks like it's actually an LT made in 1980 distributed in 81.

Thats cool to know!

That is what I thought from all that shiny chrome on there.
I hear some people talk ill of the 'L' but I see nothing wrong with them. Mechanically almost identical.
Hopefully that info will make it easier for you to find the right parts, but never be afraid to ask.
I bought my parts at GSSuzuki if I want the cheapest price or locally for the fastest arrival. I think I ended up saving like $60 over 3 orders even with paying for shipping. Seems to take about 10 business days to receive the parts from them though so for me it's a week quicker to order locally. Except when they screw it up (My local shop is not so good with customer service)

 

[Cdnpt1]

Hey guys, I just put this up today

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=183187

its about the airbox sleeves

 

[apopleptic]

Hey guys, I just put this up today

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=183187

its about the airbox sleeves

Good to note, now I have to go doublecheck my alignment.

Maybe something useful to get put onto BassCliff's site as a tutorial?

 

[Mr Rogers]

That is what I thought from all that shiny chrome on there.
I hear some people talk ill of the 'L' but I see nothing wrong with them. Mechanically almost identical.
Hopefully that info will make it easier for you to find the right parts, but never be afraid to ask.
I bought my parts at GSSuzuki if I want the cheapest price or locally for the fastest arrival. I think I ended up saving like $60 over 3 orders even with paying for shipping. Seems to take about 10 business days to receive the parts from them though so for me it's a week quicker to order locally. Except when they screw it up (My local shop is not so good with customer service)

AHHH S**** i hate it when i see that i could have saved some money eh it happens. but i'll keep these guys in mind on my next purchases. hopefully i'll be running like a champ once i get this hot hanging idle handled.

 

[Cdnpt1]

Maybe something useful to get put onto BassCliff's site as a tutorial?

I don't know how they decide that, maybe it would be useful to folks.

 

[apopleptic]

I don't know how they decide that, maybe it would be useful to folks.

Send BassCliff a private message and offer him the info. he'll probably put it on his site and give you a credit on his site. you can point him to the thread and let him make it himself or you can put it into a PDF and send it to him. I'm figuring he would prefer the latter.

 

[Guest]

Putting that up on BassCliff's site would be great, but you'll need to stick it in PDF format first then PM him about it.

As for parts, I've still yet to see anyone beat Boulevard Suzuki on price, and I've found their shipping prices to me here in Aus are good too.

I've heard mixed feedback about G&S Suzuki, seems sometimes the get it right and other times they don't and that their customer service is a bit up and down.

I haven't dealt with them so can't comment first hand...

 

[Cdnpt1]

Ok, I will have to figure out how to make a PDF. I will pmm him today and offer. Thanks for the how-to.

 

[Guest]

Well, dunno about a how-to as such... haha

I think if you get the right software you can put it into Word and save as a PDF, but I may be wrong... I haven't actually attempted that myself yet but I will need to soon for some Dynatek instructions.

 

[Guest]

A couple of things after reading through this...

1. There probably was that much oil in motor because some places tell you to fill it to the bottom of the filler hole for storage.

2. Your original problem was most likely an air leak (seems you already figured this out) from the intake boot O rings. There is nothing special about the O rings and your local dealer should have them in stock. They're a very common part. I change them any time I pull the carbs because they are that easy to do. BTW...swap out the boot screws with Hex Bolts. Makes life a lot easier.

3. I don't know if you got the boots yet, but if you can't find them PM me. I have a spare set.

4. Carb cleaning is a must. I don't know if you're stuck with the E10 crap where you live, but it makes carb cleaning that much more important.

5. A little tip I learned years ago...put a cap full of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank every once in awhile (after you fill it up). It will help lubricate the top end and also seems to help with the drivability problems I get with E10.

Welcome to the GSR!

 

[Mr Rogers]

I'm pretty sure that the "extra gas" was in fact oil since i could tell a difference in consistency between the oil that came out for the first half gallon or so to the last gallon that spewed out quickly.

I wish i had known that but yeah the boots are already on their way here right now. i also have some new o rings and hex bolts like you suggested. the PO said that he had the bike in a shop where they cleaned and tuned the carbs.

I doubt i can really trust just any bike shop with a bike this old and i wonder if it would have been possible with the air leaks that it has... but one thing i can say is that the bike purrs like a kitten when i start it up its only when i warm it up that the idle problems come so i'm pretty sure that the carbs are working well right now.

Should i open them up and clean them anyway? i've only got a month or so left for riding time so i wonder if it's a good idea. Also i'll likely need new gaskets if i open them up.

I'm not sure what e10 is i'm going to do some research... i'll also keep an eye out for the oil additive.

Thanks snark, and everyone else who's helped. i'll let you know how things are once i get those boots in the mail...which seems like it's taking forever..



I imagine It is E10 since most of the US is dispensing it now right? seems typical that Fuel would in effect be watered down to cut costs and make it last longer..ha

 

[Guest]

Should i open them up and clean them anyway? i've only got a month or so left for riding time so i wonder if it's a good idea. Also i'll likely need new gaskets if i open them up.

You shouldn't need new gaskets. If you just pop the top and bottom of and spray them out you should be fine. I do that any time I have them off the bike.

I've taken mine apart and pulled the jets to spray everything out and have not had to replace any gaskets or O rings inside. You'll be amazed at how much gunk you can find in the screen.

E10 is gasoline that is 10% Ethanol. It is required in my county so any time I'll in a more rural area I fill up with the real stuff and notice a difference right away. It has little to do with watering the fuel down and everything to do with the EPA.

 

[Mr Rogers]

ok well i do have new o rings for the carbs so i may as well replace them when i get the carbs off the bike. I'll grab a can of carb cleaner and spray em too.

do you know where i can grab that masters oil? is it normal to find it at an autozone or checker?

 

[cowboyup3371]

Don't grab a can of carb cleaner. Go to Basscliff's site, download the carb rebuild tutorial, and dip them properly or you will continue to have issues.