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Guest
Guest
Ok they're all a bit lower than they should be and you have a 1 volt voltage loss through your wiring somewhere.
While it's not ideal, it's not the end of the world either.
If it's the solenoid, it wouldn't crank at all, and the same should be said for the clutch safety switch and kill and ignition switches.
I've never tested for voltage in the spark plug cover so not sure on that one.
The next thing would be to use a 1.5v penlight battery to test the ignitor as described in the Clymer manual, and also testing to ensure the spark plug caps and spark plugs are good.
One test for the spark plugs is to disconnector the ignitor and get a piece of wire to flick the negative side of the coil to ground momentarily to see if a spark fires. You must disconnect the ignitor for this!
Left coil I think is the white wire, right is the black/yellow... same connector as the orange/white wires, but don't ground them of course
While it's not ideal, it's not the end of the world either.
If it's the solenoid, it wouldn't crank at all, and the same should be said for the clutch safety switch and kill and ignition switches.
I've never tested for voltage in the spark plug cover so not sure on that one.
The next thing would be to use a 1.5v penlight battery to test the ignitor as described in the Clymer manual, and also testing to ensure the spark plug caps and spark plugs are good.
One test for the spark plugs is to disconnector the ignitor and get a piece of wire to flick the negative side of the coil to ground momentarily to see if a spark fires. You must disconnect the ignitor for this!
Left coil I think is the white wire, right is the black/yellow... same connector as the orange/white wires, but don't ground them of course