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'81 GS550T idle and high rpm issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter heater63
  • Start date Start date
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heater63

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I just finished rebuilding my carbs and and I'm having a couple issues. I'm having trouble holding a good idle. I need to keep the engine at like 2000-2500 rpm to keep it from dying. If I hold it at 2500 rpm and release the throttle for a second and then try to rev it, it won't recover, and will usually die. The other issue is that the engine tops out at about 6000 rpms. Thats with the throttle fully open ..... it won't exceed 6000 rpms.

I believe I adjusted my pilot screws correctly, but could this be the source of my problem? I tried going through the top 10 newbie mistakes to eliminate any obvious causes.

Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
 
Yes. The stock airbox is in place. I also installed a new foam filter.
 
The choke rod appears to be moving properly and properly closing. I believe all cylinders are firing. However I just replaced both of my coils with Dyna DC1-1 coils. (cylinders 2 and 3 weren't firing so rather than replace the one bad coil I replaced both). The outputs on the Dyna coils did not specify which output went to which cylinder. So I didn't think it mattered. Maybe that was a bad assumption. So the left coil is still wired to Cylinders 1 & 4. And the right coil is still wired to Cylinders 2 & 3. But as far as which output on the individual cylinders goes to Cyl 1 and which goes to Cly 4, I unsure. That being said the engine sounds like its firing correctly. But I could be wrong.
 
Yeah. All the headers are hot. So I assume they are all firing. Could the firing sequence be wrong because of how I wired the coils?
 
Your coil connections are fine. Both wires on each coil fire every time that coil fires. That is, 1 & 4 both fire, then 2 & 3 fire, then 1 & 4, etc. I think you get the idea. So you are good at that point.
 
6000 isn't near enough- you may need an assistant for this check- make sure your slides are opening all the way when you open full throttle. An inspection mirror and light might help too- depends on your help. I'm in a similar situation with my newly rebuilt engine/carbs with idle creeping and difficulty synching.
I suspect vacum leak at the airbox since the boots are really stiff and clamps are not healthy looking- these temps have me on hold-
I remember reading someone with a foam filter over oiling it and what you described too- he washed it out and lightly oiled and fixed it. Try that first if it applies.
 
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Did you take the carbs fully apart, soak them in dip, and reassemble with fresh O-rings? Replace the intake boot O-rings? Valves adjusted? Set the pilot mixture screws at 3 turns open?



6000 isn't near enough- you may need an assistant for this check- make sure your slides are opening all the way when you open full throttle. An inspection mirror and light might help too- depends on your help. I'm in a similar situation with my newly rebuilt engine/carbs with idle creeping and difficulty synching.
I suspect vacum leak at the airbox since the boots are really stiff and clamps are not healthy looking- these temps have me on hold-


There is no need to go though all that. Just rebuild your carbs properly and check the parts while everything is apart.
 
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I did take the carbs fully apart. I soaked all metal parts in carb dip. I replaced all the gaskets and o rings. My pilot screws are 2 1/2 turns out. I did not adjust the valves though. I didn't replace the O rings on the intake boots. The thought about removing the boots but I thought I was going to strip the Phillips screws that secured them. I decided not to try and remove them until I knew I had to. They boots look to be in decent shape.
 
Hi heater63, follow all the tutotial & guideline that had been given. Previous i just let my mech to do it (biggest mistake but no option) but now i DIY my self with the guideline & tutorial from GS resources members. Now my GS run great and healthy. There is no easy way to ensure the GS run well... you can read my hard journey with my GS in the GS story section.

Happy DIY... :D
 
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Yes there is, having clean slides won't make a difference in adjusting them so they are fully open and the slide is even with the throat in WOT- this is a small item that can be missed and you'll never know if the bike is operating at top end-
 
So I think I've determined that this is an ignition issue. As I mentioned before, last week I noticed that the plugs on cylinders 2 and 3 were not firing. So I ordered new Dyna DC1-1 coils and replaced both of the original coils. I test them after installing and verified that all 4 plugs got a nice big blue spark. Today I tried starting up the bike again and noticed that the headers on cylinders 1 and 4 were very hot, but 2 and 3 were just warm to the touch. So I pulled the plugs on 2 and 3 and saw that they were not firing (well sometime I would get a single spark if I tried for a few seconds).
Does this sound like a bad ignitor? Do they fail intermittently? Seems strange that the coils seemed to work just fine 2 days ago ...but now I am seeing the original problem.

Any ideas?
 
I'd check voltage at the coils. Should be battery voltage or slightly less.
 
Hey Ed, I checked the voltages at the coils. They are both getting approx 8.8V. It sounds like it should be closer to 12V. Is that a symptom of a bad ignitor? Also, I followed the ignitor test outlined on BassCliff's site ... (using a multimeter to bypass the signal generator and fire your plugs.) I was unsuccessful. I did however verify that the signal generator had a resistance that was in the correct range.
 
Resistance in the wiring harness knocks down the coil voltage, which effects spark. Your coils should be getting at least 11 volts, or more. You can try cleaning up the harness connectors or look for the Coil Relay Mod on Cliff's site. Once you get your head around what needs to be done it's really easy.

You can grab power from the accessory screw on the fuse block.

Good luck

Edit: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/coil_relay_mod.html
 
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