81 GS650L - Charging Voltage at 5,000 RPM?

[posplayr]

First to confirm the R/R is not connected to the stator when performing any of these tests on the stator.

I found a test on another site today, http://cycleelectricinc.com/Diegnosing Alternators.htm, that I would like hear what you think of the validity. It is the section on testing for shorts to ground. They suggest using a 12v test light to test from the lead to ground and the stator is bad if the light turns on.

"The best way to test for shorts to ground is with a 12-volt test light. Sometimes an ohms meter will not pick up a short to ground. The light test is better.Using a standard automotive test light, connect the ground clip to a good ground. Test the light by touching the probe to something positive such as the positive battery terminal. The light should light indicating you have a good ground. Now you are ready to start the test.

Unplug the regulator from the stator and start the motor. Probe each stator pin with the test light one at a time. If the bulb lights when connected between any of the stator plug pins and ground the stator is shorted and needs to be replaced.

If you get proper AC voltage and the stator is not grounded (no light) the stator and rotor are good. At this point you can assume the problem is either a bad connection between the regulator and the battery or the regulator is bad."

In my case, the test light clipped to the same engine grounding point as the multi-meter will not light up when touched to stator lead. At the same time, the multi-meter is still reading volts on the lead to ground. The test light operation was confirmed from this grounding point to positive battery terminal.

Apply this.

This is certainly consistent with my proposed Theory of stator testing that in a nutshell you can only believe failed tests not passed tests unless you are exceeding the operational range of the stator voltage.