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'82 gs1100gk #3&#4 getting HOT!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter diceman1000
  • Start date Start date
D

diceman1000

Guest
like the title says,bike runs fine after it warms up,but the #4 cylinder,that;s the one all the way on the right ,right?,gets so hot that if you spit on the motor it self it actualy sizzles off...what would cause this?...and shoul i stop riding the bike until it's fixed?

Damon
 
Are the carbs adjusted correctly on the fuel/air screws? Have you checked the plugs to see if they are running rich/lean? We need just a bit more info to help.;)

Brad bt
 
haven't checked the plugs yet,i just had the carbs gone through,still need to be synced...my mechaninc said that he couldn't get the mixture screws on the 3&4 carbs to budge...as hot as those two pipes are getting,wouldn't that suggest lean?although,before i had the carbs gone through,i had a float sticking,i was dumping gas out of the right vent hose,i noticed then that the #4 pipe would get realy hot almost instantly,pulled the plug and it was black,not white...this usualy means rich,not lean,right?i'm agravated because i paid this guy $250 to "fix" my carbs,i mentioned the mixture scres,he also couldn't get a couple of jets out,so he cleaned them the best he could...i should also mention that this bike had a v&h 4 into 1,and tha it sat for 6 years in a garage...if you need more info lmk

Damon
 
Pouring gas out of a carb isn't necessarily indicative of a rich problem. As you stated, it's most likely a float issue. Check your plug readings. Black, wet= rich, white, ashy = lean. Tan = good.

If the mechanic was unable to budge those two mixture screws, then I'd figure that's the problem (besides the float). If you're willing to do some work on your own, then I'd see if you couldn't get those mixture screws out on your own. Spray some PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil on them and let them soak for at least 24 hours. Be sure you have a decent screw driver also. I'm not sure, but I believe they are made of a fairly soft metal (brass), and have the likelihood of stripping. Try tightening them before removing them.

Brad bt
 
diceman1000 said:
like the title says,bike runs fine after it warms up,but the #4 cylinder,that;s the one all the way on the right ,right?,gets so hot that if you spit on the motor it self it actualy sizzles off...what would cause this?...and shoul i stop riding the bike until it's fixed?

Damon
Click to expand...

Need more details. Pull the #4 spark plug, if it's whitish, you are running too lean. #1 cause for lean is dirty/clogged carb jets. #2 reason is air leaks from bad intake boots/ o-rings
 
Even if you're lucky enough to have the steel air screws, they can still be easily stripped out. All four were stripped on mine, so be careful.

If a mechanic can't fix a problem, or can't fix it properly, I don't expect to pay him. Especially if he can't get the jets out. He should have disassembled them as much as possible and dipped them, or at least soaked them overnight in penetrating oil. The air screws can be tricky, but as a last resort they can be drilled out. Search for posts here on that.

As far as what exactly is causing the bike to run hot on those two cylinders, I don't know exactly, but a lean condition (especially one as drastic as you're mentioning) can completely ruin an engine and should be fixed before you ride it anymore. The very least you'll run into if you continue to ride it as is is a complete top end rebuild.
 
he didn't even break the carbs down seperately...i'm ****ed,i have a clymer manual for the bike,i should have done it myself...i'm not a mechanic though,i'm learning as i go,and i thought carbs would be a little tough to tackle

Damon
 
You're using the same type CV carbs that I have, except yours are a little larger (34mm). They're fairly straighforward to rebuild and clean. It's when you have to re-jet that it gets complicated, as I'm painfully learning......

Check this link:

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

A very simple, step-by-step pictoral series on rebuilding CV carbs. I wish I had had this the first time I tore a set of carbs apart. As far as the stuck parts, you could try soaking the carb bodies in Marvel Mystery Oil or Corrosion X before you dip them, because the dip will destroy any non-metal parts under the jets, etc.

Also, MAKE SURE you have the proper size screwdrivers. It's really easy to strip the heads if you're using the wrong size.
 
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The mixture screws have a tiny O ring under a tiny washer. If the (mechanic) dipped the carbs the O rings melted assuming they weren't stopped up completely. Back your ears and DIY. There is enough info on this site to enable almost ANYONE to put the carbs back in like new cond.
 
well i checked the #1 and #4 plug,both are tan:? ...i did notice that the air box flange for # 4 isn't all of the way on the carb though...i'm gonna tear it back apart here soon and see what i can figure out,i'm also going to tear the carbs apart and see exactly what my mechanic replaced...

Damon
 
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