83 1100E carb quandry

[dpep]

My recently purchased 1100E was stumbling going past 3000 so I have the carbs off and a slightly used Dynojet kit at the ready. I am not much of a wrench and the insides of carburetors are new territory for me. Bike has stock exhausts, but pods. The mains that are in there now are 132s.

Stock mains for this model are 112.5. The Dyno Kit advises to use their # 110 for stage 1 with stock exhaust. Does not say anything about the intake side, but I got a stock airbox off eBay to replace the pods with.

It also says to drill out the needle hole in the slide, presumably because the Dyno needle is thicker than the stock one. But the needles in my carbs are actually thicker than the ones in the Dynojet kit, at least at the top where they come through the slide. And they still wiggle a fair bit. How much clearance/play should there be for the needle emerging from the bottom of the slide?

I am wondering if I want to substitue the Dyno needle for the one in there now. It is obviously designed to work with their main jet but its diameter is a lot smaller than the hole in the slide it comes through. Would this cause me a problem?

It is obvious these carbs have been modified before with a needle and jet change. But the Dyno instructions assume a stock setup. I guess if I can safely use the smaller dyno needle in the large hole and the 110 jets I can continue the march. Am I correct in assuming that using the fatter needle with the 110 jet could have me too lean?

Another option is to just clean the carbs, Leave the fat needle and the 132s, keep the pods, set the air screws at 2.5 and see if the stumble is still there. My first choice is to take it all back to stock, but I'm not sure how possible that is with the carb parts I have.

 

[Steve]

OK, a couple of things going on here.

First, you can not directly compare DynoJet and Mikuni jet sizes. A DJ 110 might be the equivalent of a Mikuni 115 or 120, I don't know. But, I DO know that they do not directly correspond.

Second, it's not the needle hole that you drill out, it's the vent hole beside it. Venting the vacuum quicker allows the slides to rise quicker. Enlarging the hole for the needle does not do anything except allow a wiggly needle.

If they are Mikuni 132 jets, that would be a bit large. I would use them if there was a pipe on the bike, too, but not just pods. That might be the source of your stumble. I would try Mikuni 120 or 122.5 jets, or the DJ equivalent, whatever their number is, and see what happens.

.

 

[Guest]

The slides are probably already drilled for the Dynojet needle.
Are you running a stock pipe?
If you are running good on wot I would mess with the needle adjustment.
Is the hesitation at 1/4 throttle? 1/2? 3/4?
If it's around 1/4 to 1/2 and the hesitation doesn't include a gurgle sound(rich) I would raise the needle one notch. (This is done by lowering the clip on the notches on the needle) If this makes it better but it is still there raise it one more. If it makes it worse lower the needle.
Don't worry. You'll learn how to pull the carbs quickly and once it's dialed in it's done.

 

[rapidray]

What Bill said plus know this, the stock airbox is a pain to deal with getting carbs in & out where the pods make it a breeze! It isn't hard & if you want to call me, PM me & I'll give you my # & help walk you thru this. Ray.

 

[dpep]

Thanks, guys, for the quick responses and Ray I appreciate your offer. You may be sorry you extended it.

It will probably be a few days before I can get back into it. Fay flooded my garage and I have to get all that cleaned up first.

So would the consensus be to leave the pods and the 132s, raise the needle a notch, and see what happens?

I'll tell you that ultimately I want to set this bike up for sport touring with good low and midrange and good gas mileage over the road. I am less interested in top end or 1/4 mile times which is why I considered reinstalling the airbox. I have heard of the difficulties it creates for carb work. My hope was that once I got it right I would not have to be pulling them all that often. Is my reasoning flawed?

 

[Nessism]

I honestly don't understand what all the fuss about the stock airbox is all about; 550 airbox is one of the worst to deal with (MUCH harder than 850/1000), yet it is no big deal. Pods are WAY more trouble than a proper airbox set up - unless you are Chef Bill and pull your bike apart every other weekend.

My suggest is to move back to dead stock on all the jetting. Shouldn't be too hard to aquire the jets needed from GSR members here since so many guys have a strange obsession with noise and speed.

Good luck.

Keep it simple Ed.

 

[dpep]

OK, a couple of things going on here.

Second, it's not the needle hole that you drill out, it's the vent hole beside it. Venting the vacuum quicker allows the slides to rise quicker. Enlarging the hole for the needle does not do anything except allow a wiggly needle.

Thanks, Steve. That makes sense. The DJet instructions say to use the bit to enlarge the "slide lift holes" and refer to Fig A, a diagram on which NOTHING is labeled and which does even not have an underview of the slide.

 

[Steve]

Yep, the 'slide lift holes' are the holes beside the center hole for the needle. That is where vacuum (generated by air rushing through the venturi under the slide) sucks the air out from above the diaphragm, lifting the slides. A larger hole lets it happen quicker.

.

 

[Guest]

I honestly don't understand what all the fuss about the stock airbox is all about; 550 airbox is one of the worst to deal with (MUCH harder than 850/1000), yet it is no big deal. Pods are WAY more trouble than a proper airbox set up - unless you are Chef Bill and pull your bike apart every other weekend.

My suggest is to move back to dead stock on all the jetting. Shouldn't be too hard to aquire the jets needed from GSR members here since so many guys have a strange obsession with noise and speed.

Good luck.

Keep it simple Ed.

I'm done with that every other weekend crap.