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83 GS1100E clutch won't disengage even with plates removed

glib

glib

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
My test ride was foiled by a clutch malfunction. Just pulled the cover and removed the pressure plate and all plates, piano wire and the driven plate behind it. Tried to roll the bike in gear to see the drive gear move independently of the clutch hub but no go. I know I'm going to have to go deeper but any idea what I should look for?
 
Seized shaft/hub bearing? That is the only thing I can think of that would lock up the clutch without even the plates in.
 
The transmission shaft and the drive gear move independently until the nut is tightened. Then the washer behind the hub binds the hub to the drive gear. It seems as though a spacer is missing but everything is there as shown in the manual diagram.
 
Maybe someone used the wrong spacer? Too fat and it's binding up or it's too thin, maybe just worn too thin and it lets the two pieces of the clutch touch each other?
 
tkent02 said:
Maybe someone used the wrong spacer? Too fat and it's binding up or it's too thin, maybe just worn too thin and it lets the two pieces of the clutch touch each other?
Click to expand...

Hmmm. I'll take a closer look.
 
Wait. Are you saying that the drive shaft and the outer hub/basket (which are coaxial) are rotating together no matter what you do (what I thought you are saying)? Or is it that they are drive shaft and the inner hub are spinning free?
 
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I believe they are stuck together, turning as one once the big hub nut is tightened, even without any pates installed.
 
JamesWhut? said:
Wait. Are you saying that the drive shaft and the outer hub/basket (which are coaxial) are rotating together no matter what you do (what I thought you are saying)? Or is it that they are drive shaft and the inner hub are spinning free?
Click to expand...

What you thought. The driven gear (outer basket) and the clutch hub (inner) were bound together. I opened up another bike I just bought for parts and there was a spacer or shim shown below that is not in this bike AND I can't find it in the diagram (it should be between items 8 and 9).


 
Installed the clutch with the spacer as found in my other bike and it works perfectly. If anyone knows where to get one of those spacers, I would like to have one to go with the other clutch setup.
 
had similar issues. While replacing the loose clutch hub nut, I figured id inspect the clutch, etc. That shim was missing also, and caused some damage. After repairing it, setting up the clearance, etc, I had a much betrer shifting bike. It rolled around in neutral after also.
The bike came to me like that so i didnt kniw otherwise. I bought the shims from Suzuki.

http://
 
glib said:
Installed the clutch with the spacer as found in my other bike and it works perfectly. If anyone knows where to get one of those spacers, I would like to have one to go with the other clutch setup.
Click to expand...

Many...maybe all....of the 1983 GS 1100E's have the thin shim that you speak of. Look at a clutch fiche for the GS 1150. Shim is there. Available dealer / online etc. part. I think there are 4 different thicknesses.....total difference from thinnest to 'thickest' is minimal...maybe .010 in.
 
Excellent help guys! Thanks. I think the one I have is close but maybe a little thin yet because it is still hard to get the bike back into neutral although there is plenty of throw at the clutch handle.
 
20160717_094937[1].jpg
I spent a lot of time this past Sunday looking at/working on this.

This thread(This forum) really saved my weekend trying to get my clutch updated/installed on a 1983 GS1100E.

I had a good used clutch from a pre 83 TSCC 16V 1100 but exactly as described here when I installed it into my 1983 the hub went frozen solid on the drum when the big nut was tightened down.
Me and my father had the vernier calipers out and were measuring everything,...we thought everything, trying to figure what was not working. For whatever fluky reason we kept using the 1983 Sleeve for the multiple trial fits.

There was a lot of head scratching.

Exactly as described here,...the pre 1983 hub/drum sleeve is about 50 thou wider and in effect spaces the hub away from the face of the clutch drum enough to allow for free rotation.

WoooHooo,...*bows down* for the GS Resources forum.
 
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TiiMuch said:
View attachment 46585
I spent a lot of time this past Sunday looking at/working on this.

This thread(This forum) really saved my weekend trying to get my clutch updated/installed on a 1983 GS1100E.

I had a good used clutch from a pre 83 TSCC 16V 1100 but exactly as described here when I installed it into my 1983 the hub went frozen solid on the drum when the big nut was tightened down.
Me and my father had the vernier calipers out and were measuring everything,...we though everything, trying to figure what was not working. For whatever fluky reason we kept using the 1983 Sleeve for the multiple trial fits.

There was a lot of head scratching.

Exactly as described here,...the pre 1983 hub/drum sleeve is about 50 thou wider and in effect spaces the hub away from the face of the clutch drum enough to allow for free rotation.

WoooHooo,...*bows down* for the GS Resources forum.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I ended up buying a few different sizes of the shim so I do have a couple left if anyone needs one and it is the right size. It feels great to defeat one of the gremlins.
 
The shim set up and way to measure are shown in the supplement section of theach manual near the end. If I remember right its year/model specific in the supplement section.

Nic
 
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