You need the right tools:
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
'84 1150 rebuild
- Thread starter wyly
- Start date
lol! yeah that would've been my situation if I hadn't bought new rubber.
The battle of removing the carbs was still fresh in my mind, the rubbers were as hard as hockey pucks, it was a beast of a task. I assumed putting the carbs back in with the petrified rubber would be many, many times worse so I bought new air boots for $100. It took me only an hour to install and hook up the cables using only my hands and a screwdriver, no hammer or wood required.
my torque wrench should've been delivered to my door today but the lazy arse mailman couldn't be bothered and left a "failure to deliver-No one was home" notice at the community mailbox down the street
I was watching him from my driveway and he never came to my house...so now I have to go to the depot to pick it up tomorrow.
The battle of removing the carbs was still fresh in my mind, the rubbers were as hard as hockey pucks, it was a beast of a task. I assumed putting the carbs back in with the petrified rubber would be many, many times worse so I bought new air boots for $100. It took me only an hour to install and hook up the cables using only my hands and a screwdriver, no hammer or wood required.
my torque wrench should've been delivered to my door today but the lazy arse mailman couldn't be bothered and left a "failure to deliver-No one was home" notice at the community mailbox down the street
I was watching him from my driveway and he never came to my house...so now I have to go to the depot to pick it up tomorrow.
Last edited:
Canada Post to the rescue again.
New carb boots are such a treat.
New carb boots are such a treat.
yeah but that one was used Ray...has it been dropped? has it been used as a hammer, has it ever been re-calibrated?
and it's a click system. I have tinnitus so hearing a very quiet click is difficult.
The new wrench I new is about $150, it's got LEDs that change color as I approach the torque level I program into it, another when I reach it and another if I go past.
and it's a click system. I have tinnitus so hearing a very quiet click is difficult.
The new wrench I new is about $150, it's got LEDs that change color as I approach the torque level I program into it, another when I reach it and another if I go past.
I'm stumped, I've consulted the Haynes manual and the Factory manual and neither show how the choke cable is to be installed. It must be considered too obvious to mention, very frustrating to brought to a standstill by a simple choke cable.
I never disconnected it at the bar and the carb connection seems straight forward but I have about 3 inches of unsheathed cable, so it's totally ineffective if the ends of the sheath can't seat into anything, that curved tube is on the carb but it ends well short of that even when adjusted to the max.
I got this bike is a rebuild project and it hasn't run in 25 years it is possible the incorrect choke cable was added later by the PO and is too long. The PO couldn't have operated as it is unless he pulled on the choke rod.
I looked at parts schematic and my cable looks different than the schematic but online schematics are often blurry and hard to make out.
I never disconnected it at the bar and the carb connection seems straight forward but I have about 3 inches of unsheathed cable, so it's totally ineffective if the ends of the sheath can't seat into anything, that curved tube is on the carb but it ends well short of that even when adjusted to the max.
I got this bike is a rebuild project and it hasn't run in 25 years it is possible the incorrect choke cable was added later by the PO and is too long. The PO couldn't have operated as it is unless he pulled on the choke rod.
I looked at parts schematic and my cable looks different than the schematic but online schematics are often blurry and hard to make out.
Oh dear - that really told me.
He he was talking about cam cover bolts. NOT cam cap bolts. Yes of course cam cap bolts need to be torqued to spec. But the cam cover bolts need very little. Finger tight and a quarter to half extra turn works just great. I've never had a leak.
With your experience Ray, it staggers me that you haven't got the "feel" of those cover bolts after all these years.
Much better to use "feel" than to encourage someone to use a cheap wrench that will inevitably end up with another
stripped cam cap.
You are the guru - but you can sure be vitriolic. Puts one off a bit.
He he was talking about cam cover bolts. NOT cam cap bolts. Yes of course cam cap bolts need to be torqued to spec. But the cam cover bolts need very little. Finger tight and a quarter to half extra turn works just great. I've never had a leak.
With your experience Ray, it staggers me that you haven't got the "feel" of those cover bolts after all these years.
Much better to use "feel" than to encourage someone to use a cheap wrench that will inevitably end up with another
stripped cam cap.
You are the guru - but you can sure be vitriolic. Puts one off a bit.
Snap-On isn't cheap. They are among the very best. I use Snap-On torque wrenches and you can feel the click as much as hear it.
OK it's difficult to know where you are with this without a pic.
The choke cable comes through the curved tube attached to the carb tops. The cable should have about 3 inches protruding from that tube with the handlebar choke lever in the fully off position. It then connects to the choke mechanism on the no.4 carb. If you have assembled the carbs correctly all should be good. I once assembled a set of carbs with the choke clip on carb no.3 and thought I had an incorrect cable.
The choke cable comes through the curved tube attached to the carb tops. The cable should have about 3 inches protruding from that tube with the handlebar choke lever in the fully off position. It then connects to the choke mechanism on the no.4 carb. If you have assembled the carbs correctly all should be good. I once assembled a set of carbs with the choke clip on carb no.3 and thought I had an incorrect cable.
Last edited:
Well done. Keep going.
okay, carbs primed, choke corrected, fuel tank connected, fresh fuel, turn key instruments light up, kill switch good, in neutral and ...nothing, silence hmmmm.
is there a secret Suzuki starting method?
the side stand warning light is on even though the stand is up, can that prevent starting?
my factory troubleshooting guide doesn't even cover total silence as a symtom
possibly the battery is too low I'll put a charger on it, I would think if turns on the lights it should at least have enough charge to turn over the starter once...
is there a secret Suzuki starting method?
the side stand warning light is on even though the stand is up, can that prevent starting?
my factory troubleshooting guide doesn't even cover total silence as a symtom
possibly the battery is too low I'll put a charger on it, I would think if turns on the lights it should at least have enough charge to turn over the starter once...
Well done. I know what a joy that is after all the work you have put it.
Job well done.
We just want pics and videos now please!
Here's one I did earlier:
Job well done.
We just want pics and videos now please!
Here's one I did earlier:
Making a racket again for the first time in 25 years is outstanding.
As Richard mentioned, video evidence is now required.
another thing to learn, how to upload a video. It took me forever to figure out how to post a photo....but I'll try.
if anyone has some ideas what might be wrong with my fuel gauge, it shows empty when I have a gallon in the tank?
and with my the stand stand warning light, it's shows down when it's up.
I can live with the side stand malfunction but the fuel gauge would be nice to have operational.
electrical issues are always my biggest mysteries.
and with my the stand stand warning light, it's shows down when it's up.
I can live with the side stand malfunction but the fuel gauge would be nice to have operational.
electrical issues are always my biggest mysteries.
That may just be reserve. With the valve "on", mine runs out of gas as soon as the needle hits E. Then a switch to reserve. Im pretty certain that reserve is somewhere around a gallon.
Oh, and congrats on getting it running.
Oh, and congrats on getting it running.
Factory manual states 5.2 quarts reserve (4.9L) you may be fine...
As far as the side stand switch goes, did you try to push up the switch by hand in case that its not pushing up far enough? I think holes are adjustable.... I had a bad switch on mine.
As far as the side stand switch goes, did you try to push up the switch by hand in case that its not pushing up far enough? I think holes are adjustable.... I had a bad switch on mine.